Question about applying WOP over oil

[Glen Blanchard]

In another thread, a number of folks mentioned applying an oil finish on a burl project followed by a wipe on poly. I have a few questions along these lines:

1. What type of oil lends itself to this protocol? Walnut Oil? Danish oil? BLO? Does it matter?
2. I presume the purpose is to make the burl figure pop prior to protecting it with the poly. Is there any reason such a strategy should be confined to burls? I'm thinking any figured wood would benefit. Sound about right?
3. I presume the oil needs to completely cure before applying the first coat of WOP. How long might that take?
4. How many applications of oil? more than one?

[John Keeton]

What type of oil lends itself to this protocol? Walnut Oil? Danish oil? BLO? Does it matter? Danish oil is a varnish blend and would be similar to simply going straight to WOP. Walnut oil cures slowly, but doesn't darken as much as BLO.

I presume the purpose is to make the burl figure pop prior to protecting it with the poly. Is there any reason such a strategy should be confined to burls? I'm thinking any figured wood would benefit. Sound about right? Yes, to a point. Sometimes, applying oil can mute chatoyance.

I presume the oil needs to completely cure before applying the first coat of WOP. How long might that take? Complete cure would be best, but not absolutely necessary. However, uncured oil will slow the WOP from drying. When I use BLO, I usually will wait 24-48 hours, but I have also used BLO followed immediately with dewaxed shellac, and then WOP. Then, it usually takes a couple days for the WOP to dry.

How many applications of oil? more than one? One is plenty.

[Marvin Hasenak]

If I wanted that look I would use Minwax Teak oil, it has a higher percentage of varnish in it. You get the best of both worlds, the oil and the varnish in one can.