Some wood just doesn't like to be planed

[david charlesworth]

This technique is relatively new to me, so I don't claim to have any answers.

English Yew is a particularly fine grained softwood, prone to tearout. I thought I would try 50 degrees but it turned out that 70 performed better for me, all in regular 45 degree bench planes.
Best wishes,
David

[Graham Haydon]

Wood From Hell 1.jpg

Wood From Hell 2.jpg

Wood From Hell 3.jpg

I had a go at the "wood from hell" that David Charlesworth mentions. For some background on other methods that have been used http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/w...cs-t24308.html & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwDTH1ggAzM. Yew no doubt has it's issues but the cap iron does work well when I have encountered issues. I would recommend not changing a thing about the standard Stanley set up. The cap iron seems perfect, if you need to get a new style cap iron right I would advise buying an old cap iron and copying it. The plane used here was a stock #4 with standard iron & cap iron, plane is likely 1960's>70's vintage. The only reason I understand how powerful this method is thanks my discovery of David Weaver, Kees and Warren Mickleys writing and input. Although you can read a book it's static, seeing the discussions on the method unfold helped me understand. Then the books made sense.
Other methods will work well, back bevels, BU with high angles and scraping. The beauty of the regular BD plane with cap iron in it's wooden or bailey trim is how versatile it is. Well worth giving it a try on the Yew and good luck!

[Stewie Simpson]

Stewie, could you summarise the content of those links for us? A short précis will suffice.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek, let me start off by saying there is a lesson to be learnt by the departure of David Weaver from this forum. Continuing down the path of expressing ones personal opinion can provide a catalyst to what ends up becoming a dog fight over who is right and who is wrong within the public arena. Far wiser to form a non committal attitude, and provide other forms of information that may be of some help to the op.

regards Stewie;

[Steve Voigt]

Hi Derek, let me start off by saying there is a lesson to be learnt by the departure of David Weaver from this forum. Continuing down the path of expressing ones personal can provide a catalyst to what ends up becoming a dog fight over who is right and who is wrong within the public arena. Far wiser to form a non committal attitude, and provide other forms of information that may be of some help to the op.

Yes, how wise of you. That sounds really interesting, to read nothing but non-ideological, "non-committal" posts. But I think I'd rather take a fistful of sleeping pills, thanks.

I think it's complete nonsense, though, to claim neutrality like this. You've expressed strong opinions here and on other forums, so we know you have them; why not own up to them?

As far as the links you posted go, I'd summarize the contents as "bevel-up, bevel-down, hey--whatever works, bro." I'm not sure I see how that advances this particular discussion, but maybe you can illuminate me, in a pleasingly anodyne fashion.

[Steve Voigt]

Yew no doubt has it's issues but the cap iron does work well when I have encountered issues. I would recommend not changing a thing about the standard Stanley set up. The cap iron seems perfect, if you need to get a new style cap iron right I would advise buying an old cap iron and copying it. The plane used here was a stock #4 with standard iron & cap iron, plane is likely 1960's>70's vintage. The only reason I understand how powerful this method is thanks my discovery of David Weaver, Kees and Warren Mickleys writing and input. Although you can read a book it's static, seeing the discussions on the method unfold helped me understand. Then the books made sense.
Other methods will work well, back bevels, BU with high angles and scraping. The beauty of the regular BD plane with cap iron in it's wooden or bailey trim is how versatile it is. Well worth giving it a try on the Yew and good luck!

Nicely put Graham, thanks.

[ian maybury]

That is a really great looking piece of wood….

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Ian. If you want to experience some really beautiful timber try your hand on some Tasmanian Tiger Myrtle.

http://woodalchemy.com/woods/tiger_myrtle

At the present moment I am at the half way stage of completing a new 16 inch tenon saw, and have used Tiger Myrtle for the closed handled tote. Its not my first time working with TTM, but that sense of excitement has never wavered.

Stewie

[Winton Applegate]

Steve,

Thanks for that. I was hoping I wasn't the only one that likes to talk directly to the person posting rather than just read links to links . . .
linkity link link link.
(that was roughly the sound of a squeaky wheel coming to a stop.)

[Stewie Simpson]

"Bravo Winton."

kind regards Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

"but maybe you can illuminate me, in a pleasingly anodyne fashion."

Hi Steve. No problem. All you have to do is lean forward, until your face is about 1 inch away from the computer screen, and just read my lips.

regards Stewie;

[Dave Beauchesne]

Well, I tried a few plane combinations, knowing that the good old scraper would not fail me.

Like a dream, a quick scraper tune up and made the Yew give up some fluffy curls. Even though a softwood, it scraped nicely.

The project continues -----

[Dave Beauchesne]

Here is the Krenov inspired, finished product. It is a mantle cabinet that the LOML has laid claim to.

Happy to say the entire surface is finished with either a scraper or plane. Kingwood and Madrone drawer, copper and brass sheet metal woven in a chair seat pattern to cover the hole on the back panel. The pull is a piece of solid copper I silver soldered a couple of brass pins into, hammered it with a polished tip of a welders chipping hammer - had to anneal it a couple times as it stiffened up during the hammering process.

Tried and True exterior, couple of coats of 1 pound cut ultra blonde shellac interior.

I know this should be in the Projects section, but I wanted to finish the thread; the Yew was tough, but it succumbed to your advice in the end. Thanks for the advice.

[Jim Matthews]

Bravo. Your perseverance was rewarded.

[bridger berdel]

Warren-
Would it be possible for you to post a closeup side on picture of one of your blade/chipbreaker setups?

I would say steeper. The bevel of the cap iron should be rounded, and not flat, the way the bevel of the iron is.

[Warren Mickley]

I don't have a camera. Nor do I have the knowledge to take a picture and transfer it from the camera to the forum. I can tell you that you want something a lot closer to an old Stanley cap iron or a 19th century cap iron than today's offerings. The Lee Valley and Lie Nielson cap irons look like they were designed by people who had no idea how to use a double iron plane. A friend wrote me that he thinks they are deliberately made ineffective so they don't compete with the high angle stuff. You won't get much action from a flat bevel in the 30 to 50 degree range.