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Thread: Some wood just doesn't like to be planed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Gibsons British Columbia Canada ( near Vancouver )
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    693

    Some wood just doesn't like to be planed

    Am a sucker for punishment; I am in the process of of making a small wall cabinet ( Krenov style ) in Yew.
    While an amateur, I can very successfully plane curly maple all day long with my type 11 5C and Veritas blade / CB combo, but this wildly contorted Yew has once again prevailed. It was from a board I bought from a fellow that stood in his shop for 20 years, and has remained surprisingly straight after rough dimensioning.
    Will take it to my buddy and his drum sander.
    Beautiful, full width, tapering to the edge shavings, but just enough tearout to ruin my day.
    Even scraping is iffy; Yew is stringy enough that is is miserable to plane and scrape.
    Thought you might enjoy the color of the wood, it is like and orangey brandy color when finished.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wild Wild West USA
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    1,542

    Just a Suggestion

    Hey ! The Sawmill is loadable again !
    SWEET !
    . . . and just in time for me to talk about what I love to talk about : BU and tear out.
    Sanding . . . bah . . .
    Sand paper is for metal working and car bodies and stuff.


    LV BU . . . cutting angle on the order of 60° (12° bed + secondary bevel of 45° to 50° (or more) bevel angle) super sharp (sharpened on a jig with no ruler tricking) = no sand paper.

    Do you know any one with a LV BU you could try on the plank before sliding off the tarmac into the gravel as it were ? Would be an interesting experiment.

    Nice wood by the way !
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
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    I had the same problem with Tupelo/Black Gum from Rhode Island.

    Interlocking grain makes this sort of thing nearly impossible.
    I've had some decent results with a 'toothing' blade,
    set to 90 degrees.

    Scraping afterwards worked okay.
    Soft wood is harder to handle,
    go figure.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Renton, WA
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    I took one look at the grain and said 'no wonder'. That is some really twisty grain. I can see why it was so tough to plane. In spots ity makes a 180 degree change it what looks like 2 inches. Nice color

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wild Wild West USA
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    1,542
    Where's David Charlesworth ?
    He knows about Yew.
    His bench is made from the stuff.
    David, old bean,
    are you there ?

    If nothing else cheat and wet the surface with a little water, denatured alc or paint thinner.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Houston TX
    Posts
    548
    Same with almond. It's like planing a braided hemp hawser rope!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
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    5,582
    Yep, I'd also go to the drum sander, there's no shame in using the proper tool for the job. Once you get it back from there you might just use a card scraper with some very light passes to get the surface back to a 'neanderthal' appearance.

  8. #8
    I've got a couple of exotics that I have worked recently where my planes just glide over them and won't even take a shaving. Those are the ones that get the card scraper, as the pieces were too small for a drum sander.

  9. #9
    (said only in half jest)

    Aw, just leave it all torn out like that.

    That wood is a Stallion that wouldn't be tamed. You can tranquilize it and strap on a muzzle by running it through the drum sander, or you can leave it all beautifully scarred so the world knows what a tough bronco he is.

    There's a poetry in the gnarl!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Gibsons British Columbia Canada ( near Vancouver )
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    693
    I am glad no one has recommended ' plastic wood ' filler. ( uncontrollable shudder ) .

    Winton:

    I have a LV smoother that also laughed at the Yew. I have a story that I can PM you because it involves ' implied profanity ' - will try to get to that a little later - very busy at home and work right now.

    Thanks for the input all, but, again, Yew is a bear. Period.

    Dave B

  11. #11
    Four ideas.

    High effective pitch and very fine shavings.
    I would think at least 65 degrees, either in BU or small back bevel in bench plane. Small width but 20 or 25 degrees to back.

    Third, sharp scraper plane with hook and very fine shavings.

    The fourth I have not tried yet, (although it smoothed "the wood from hell") the ultra close set cap iron. About 0.004" from the edge.

    best wishes,
    David

  12. #12
    I would say there is something wrong with your cap iron configuration, Dave. While some woods are more prone to tearing than others, there is no need for high angles or scraping or sanding if you have a double iron plane.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post
    I would say there is something wrong with your cap iron configuration, Dave. While some woods are more prone to tearing than others, there is no need for high angles or scraping or sanding if you have a double iron plane.
    I would second this thought.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
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    2,534
    I would suggest you follow David Charlesworth's suggestions as he has the greater experience working with Yew. But its your call.

    Also;

    Allergies & toxins associated with Yew. http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-.../european-yew/

    Stewie;

  15. #15
    Warren,

    What angle do you use on the front of your cap iron, please?

    David

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