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Thread: New Windows?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,535

    New Windows?

    The wife is doing spring cleaning and has me involved. I get to clean the outside of all the windows.

    We have a 1960's ranch style home. 32 years ago I replaced all the windows which weren't thermal pane. I put thermal pane windows but after 30 years, I found they need replacing. There were several that when I sprayed and wiped the outside pane, spray ended up between the two panes.

    I have watched a couple neighbors have their windows replaced and the installers cut the nailing flange off, and cut the old window out. They screwed the new windows into the frame and caulked around it. I don't like that type of installation.

    2 questions?

    1. Can you still get slider/glider windows designed to be installed using the nailing flange in 2x4 constructed houses?

    2. Are there any brands you would absolutely recommend or recommend against?

    Thanks.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Midland MI
    Posts
    887
    If I understand you, you are asking for "new construction windows" these are avaiable. but depending on the type of siding you have you need to remove the siding.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
    Posts
    2,340
    Ken, yes nail in fin (NIF) windows are readily available in the horizontal slider style. I've had good luck with Anderson and Milgard, not so much with International Window. As Cody pointed out, to install NIF windows you'll likely need to remove or cut away some of the siding. NIF's are typically installed over the sheathing and beneath the siding. I've done remodels where we cut away about 2" of siding around the perimeter, installed the NIF, heavily caulked the fin-to-siding seam and overlaid with the trim.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
    Posts
    7,149
    I'm a big fan of Anderson's as the most cost effective nationally available option, Marvins are better looking imo aesthetically but rather expensive. I prefer new construction windows with the nailing flange as well, much easier to flash with today's tapes and wraps, but obviously far more labor to remove and replace exterior trim and perhaps siding. I put Andersens in my garage build a few years back, they really don't leak air, good gasketing system.
    "A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel

  5. #5
    I have replaced all the windows in my house with new construction Millguard sliders - 22 in total - they have been in place for ~ 4 years. I have no complaints and would get them again. I liked anderson better but they were a lot more expensive here in so cal.

  6. #6
    Right now I can't recall the name, but I replaced a window in the basement, I have 2 areaways with egress windows, and the old wood window was shot, so I asked the salesman at the old yard I used to buy from, and he ordered a window to fit my opening. They will cut a size down close to what you need, so it fits in your opening. I would just cut the siding off a bit if it is still good, and install smart trim around your new windows.

  7. #7
    Our new to us house was nearly 50 years old when we purchased it in 2013. It had single pane windows with storms that were in bad shape. Some of the storms were broken, some of the windows had visible cracks, some wouldn't move. The house is on a big lake so we bought it knowing the windows, and lots of other things would need attention. I had window world come in and replace all the windows that were not in an area we were going to have redone. Later in the year I had a contractor add a garage (for my shop) and redo the rooms over the garages + add a dormer in another part of the house. Those windows were from Lowes. We looked at a Lowes quote while deciding on replacements and they were cheaper but we went with WW because we liked their windows better. We had the builder use Lowes because of shorter delivery time. The WW windows are far better than the Lowes. You can tilt the WW windows from any position. The Lowes need to be about half way up or they jump off the tracks. The WW have nicer closing latches and better wind barriers. Just a far nicer window.

    The WW windows are installed the way you don't like. We don't like it either but our siding is brick and I wasn't willing to remove it -or have it removed - and replaced. It is essentially impossible to match old brick. We had them done from the outside and aluminum pieces bent up to cover the interface. I added caulk after they left to seal it up properly. We initially weren't thrilled with the look but have gotten used to it.

    WW can supply new construction windows. They order everything to your order so you wait a month to 6 weeks for delivery but can get any size you want. If you want a good vinyl window, they are worth checking out. I have one more window to replace, my wife wants the opening enlarged and I didn't pay WW or the contractor to do it. I plan to enlarge the opening and then order a WW window for it. My wife says she will live with a piece of plywood over the opening for a month or more to get the window she wants.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    N.E, Ohio
    Posts
    3,029
    My in-laws replaced their windows with Anderson replacement windows and they were awesome windows. The house was much quieter, almost no outside noise infiltration, and much warmer. I would have then as my replacement windows in a heart beat. They even have models that are treated on the inside so they can be stained. They are however replacement windows and are screwed into the the framing.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
    Posts
    3,667
    I'm a fan of the Marvin Infinity line of fiberglass windows. Priced around the same level or a bit cheaper than Andersen 400s, but better made with somewhat better efficiency numbers. Very good bang for the buck in terms of performance. We had Andersen 400's in the last house and a mix of Infinity and Ultimate windows in the new. Fit and finish on the Marvin's is better, and I think the fiberglass is stronger and better looking than any vinyl. We did a semi-deep energy retrofit on a 1952 garrison colonial that had very badly fitting single pane windows. Since we were making a mess anyway with new windows we took the opportunity to wrap the entire exterior of the house with 2" of rigid foam, new sealed zip wall, rain screen, and new clapboards. The house is dramatically more comfortable now and uses about 80% less heat despite being a third bigger now with the addition. The Infinity windows have too much exposed plastic hardware for me, so in the front rooms of the house we used the Marvin Ultimates that hide all of the mechanism. Too much money to use everywhere though.

    Using new construction windows is way nicer than "replacement" windows, as the latter cut down the glazed area of the window a lot and do nothing to improve the air sealing of the original window into the building frame.

  10. #10
    You loose about 1.5 inches of glass all the way around with a replacement window. Sealing isn't really an issue in our case, however. The outside is covered by aluminum. The installers caulked the aluminum pieces together and to the window. I came back later and caulked what they missed including the aluminum to the brick. So outside, it is sealed. Inside the installers caulked the vinyl to the existing wood trim. So that is pretty well sealed too. So the finished product is as well sealed as a new construction window. My builder didn't use spray foam around the windows so there is actually a path to heat loss not present on the replacements (or not as well sealed as the replacements). WW has foam gaskets all the way around their replacement windows. I prefer spray foam but I think the gaskets are better than a few pieces of fiberglass insulation pushed in. Caulk is Siroflex Duo-seal, a urethane rated at 50 years which is paintable but also non-yellowing. I used clear to caulk to the brick and white to caulk aluminum to aluminum.

    I wish I had a couple inches of foam on my walls....

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    Our old house we replaced all the windows because the jambs were failing due to a design issue. We used all Anderson 400 series. The first I did myself and pulled siding back, installed new J-channel because of a very slight size difference, and put everything back together. I paid a contractor to do the rest of the house. He came up with the idea of making new aluminum window trim and used a wheel on a grinder to cut a line of siding about 2" back from each window edge. He bent up the new trim with a nice wide band around around the window and integrated a J-channel into that. Really turned out nice and let them replace the windows with an install that was just like new construction.

    This house had Anderson replacements installed before we bought it. Not sure why because the windows looked fine in every other house in the sub we looked at. Actually, I probably do know why but I shouldn't say things like that about the previous owner in public . They are casement windows which I've never really had much exposure to. I like them other than the minor nuisance of window treatments hanging up on the cranks. I reclocked some of the cranks so they are out of the way when closed and there are some other options for dealing with that.


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,569
    This may not be an option for Ken but we have vinyl double hung windows that are still available. The seals on some were failing after about 20 years. We called the manufacturer and were able to purchase just the glass. It was pretty simple to remove the vinyl stops, remove the old glass, recaulk with clear silicone, insert the new glass and replace the stops. The original frames are still pretty air tight and in good condition so we didn't feel the need to replace the whole thing.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    919
    I like the Marvin Infinity fiberglass windows also. I had 22 put in last year. Pretty expensive though.

    Quote Originally Posted by roger wiegand View Post
    I'm a fan of the Marvin Infinity line of fiberglass windows. Priced around the same level or a bit cheaper than Andersen 400s, but better made with somewhat better efficiency numbers. Very good bang for the buck in terms of performance. We had Andersen 400's in the last house and a mix of Infinity and Ultimate windows in the new. Fit and finish on the Marvin's is better, and I think the fiberglass is stronger and better looking than any vinyl. We did a semi-deep energy retrofit on a 1952 garrison colonial that had very badly fitting single pane windows. Since we were making a mess anyway with new windows we took the opportunity to wrap the entire exterior of the house with 2" of rigid foam, new sealed zip wall, rain screen, and new clapboards. The house is dramatically more comfortable now and uses about 80% less heat despite being a third bigger now with the addition. The Infinity windows have too much exposed plastic hardware for me, so in the front rooms of the house we used the Marvin Ultimates that hide all of the mechanism. Too much money to use everywhere though.

    Using new construction windows is way nicer than "replacement" windows, as the latter cut down the glazed area of the window a lot and do nothing to improve the air sealing of the original window into the building frame.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    606
    I have replaced windows on 3 houses. All with the proper new window flange. In my experience there is a gain to be made with better windows but the biggest gain is made with better installation. All three houses I replaced the windows on had no sealing or caulking to eliminate air infiltration around the perimeter of the window. Proper caulking and sealing gaps with "foam in a can" makes a huge difference in the efficiency of a window. Buy a battery powered caulk gun! Best tool investment for window installation I have ever made!
    Last edited by Bruce Page; 03-12-2015 at 2:30 PM. Reason: Removed comment

  15. #15
    I installed a mix of Pella and Anderson double hung and casement windows in our house. I thought the Pella were much nicer, and not much more expensive. I also wanted to use new construction windows, so I needed to pull the siding off and reinstall, but I felt it was a much better method of installation, and you don't lose any glass like with replacement windows.

    Also, I wouldn't ever recommend replacing a window purely for energy efficiency reasons, you'll never recoup the costs of a new window unless the glass is missing from the old one.

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