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Thread: Slab desk build

  1. #1
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    Slab desk build

    I'm making a slab desk for a friend. The desk will be 60" long x 30" wide.

    There's nothing sophisticated about this design, but it's going to be fun, so I thought I'd share my process.

    I purchased these 120"x21" walnut slabs from Horizon Lumber. perhaps all mills do this, but Pete takes care to air dry some of these slabs for several years before putting them through the kiln for only a short time at the end (I suppose to kill anything living in it).

    I'm trying to do much of this by hand. I cross cut the two slabs about 64" and started surfacing one. This air dried lumber really makes hand planing a breeze. I was able to level the cupped top in about 30 minutes. This slab planes like butter.

    I'm intentionally leaving the splits in tact. It's a bookmatched set and I'm trying to figure out whether to match them (which I usually do) or whether to bookmatch and flip the orientation 180degrees, so the splits are at opposite ends. I The nice thing about this second option is that it will keep the grain of both pieces orientated in the same direction.

    C&C welcome. Thx for watching.
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  2. #2
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    I love seeing those big slabs. I have yet to work with any but I will watch with interest. Its hard to find nice slabs in my area. Hopefully one day.

  3. #3
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    Nice slabs!

    What do you intend to do for the base on this one?

    IMO, keep them bookmatched, that is the beauty of slab tables.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #4
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    Oooohhh, those are nice!

    My first inclination would be to book match, but... perhaps you can show pics once surfaced. I'd bet that surfacing won't be a big deal given the widths if you're doing by hand since the switch in direction will be fairly clear.

    Looking forward to progress.

    C
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  5. #5
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    Those are going to make a fine table,nice find Prashun.They look to be mostly Quarter and rift with a little bit of cathedral in the middle.Are they 5/4 they don't look very thick.Aj

  6. #6
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    In my experience, book matching works well when you're going to be looking from a position that the mirror image is obvious -- for instance on a door. If your desk is in the usual position -- against a wall -- you're not often going to be looking at it from the end, where you'd be seeing the book match. So my advice is to not worry much about book matching the slabs. Turn 'em upside down, flip 'em end-for-end, play with the sapwood streaks, whatever. Just arrange them to be as beautiful as they can be.

  7. #7
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    Andrew, yes, they are mostly quartersawn. That's a blessing and a curse: one of these is right through the pith. The splits tell the story.
    Thanks for that insight, Jamie. I hadn't thought about that. I tend to bookmatch too much. I'm feeling like a one-trick pony .

    I've noticed on things with a lot of curl or depth, bookmatching isn't always a nice effect. The light just reflects differently and the curl doesn't mirror as stunningly as I might hope. It also makes planing near the seam a little more stressful.

    I showed the pix to the recipient last night and as Murphy would have it, she replied, "I meant CHOCOLATE brown." I explained that the pix are washed out and walnut is a lot darker. Then she sent me a picture of an espresso stained dining table. I thought we were on the same page when I ordered these.

    So, the most work will be managing expectations...
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 03-12-2015 at 8:44 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    .. espresso stained dining table.....

    Eeew! Folks who have spent their lives shopping at Crate and Barrel or the like have no idea of the beauty of real wood. I'd start fighting that idea right now, not after you've built the whole table. I'd pick a few square feet of plank -- maybe an offcut, or maybe a part you'll actually use. (If it is a part you'll actually use, just plan on sanding and refinishing it when you do the whole table.) I'd do the full finish job on it, and show it to her. Present it as "the finish", as contrasted to "is this okay, or do you really want me to stain it expresso?" (Me, if she insists on opaque stain, I'd quit the job, and use the wood for somebody who deserves it. Close rant.)

  9. #9
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    You can use some dark tung oil and it will darken the slab slightly, then finish over it like you normally would (assuming oil finish).

    I will mirror Jamie's sentiment, but to some extend the average consumer is so far divorced from the process at this level that it requires the craftsman to educate them on how their preferences will have to differ if they should chose such a product.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 03-12-2015 at 11:07 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  10. #10
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    Men after my own heart!

    I'm not quitting. I'll give her the option to not purchase after it's finished. In fact, I'd probably sell it for more to someone else if she drops out. But I think she's going to be happy.

    I plan to topcoat with Waterlox OSF, which will make it fairly dark.

    I'm definitely going to submit a finished offcut for approval. If she dislikes this, I may experiment with some Transtint. As it so happens I have a little extra Black Walnut Transtint that will work. I'm not - for the life of me - going to go the full espresso route. I've done that on one too many birch, beech, and sycamore tables...Walnut deserves a little more respect

  11. #11
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    I've been experimenting with Transtint dye on walnut a bit lately, and I'm generally satisfied with the result. George Nakashima might not approve, but the clarity of the figure and some of the complexity of the color of the wood remains, and it is infinitely superior to any commercial espresso glop. If a customer, given the comparison to choose from, still wants to go with the espresso, you might as well build with alder and save your good wood. OTOH, a customer who is pleased with a rich, naturally finished walnut might still be distressed as the walnut pales over time, which it always will. That is why so much commercial walnut furniture is dyed as a matter of course.

  12. #12
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    First piece cleaned up

    I finished flattening the first slab reasonably well. I only received these 2 days ago, so I have to let them acclimate a little while. That's the nice thing about handplaning. It takes so long I can acclimate WHILE I prep.

    I'm prepping at this stage just to allow me to arrange the boards so I can rough trim them. I wouldn't have even flattened so much yet if it weren't so darn fun. Just one more stroke! I couldn't resist taking a block plane over the whole surface and removing all my pesky track marks. I love this hobby too much to ever make any real money in it. I just spend too much time on every little detail, including staring.

    There's some really nice curl in here. I didn't count on that. I didn't count on them being so straight grained. Can't wait to get the other one cleaned up a little so I can start trimming.

    Darn white balance on the iphone!!

    I really don't want to dye this at all. It just doesn't need it.
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    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 03-12-2015 at 2:13 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I'm making a slab desk for a friend.
    Friends don't let friends dye walnut slabs espresso........

  14. #14
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    I've been putting some effort into selling things this year. The pipeline is fairly easy to fill. It's difficult to fill it PROFITABLY, though

    I'm only trying to earn enough for tools.

    What I'm finding is that people tend to say, "I'm in your hands" when you start, but I end up being in their's once I get started.

    Commissions aren't as glamorous as I thought. Good thing I'm not relying on this for primary income. I would have been out of business..

  15. #15
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    Prashun, those slabs look pretty nice. The cracks don't thrill me but I know many like and even celebrate them. With the right design they will work well. I, too, am interested in what you have in mind for the base.

    I wouldn't shy away from dying it. I'm not saying you should make it espresso colored, but I've found that Transtint really helps deepen the figure, well beyond what BLO and varnish alone will do. Try some on your scrap and see for yourself. I think you might be pleasantly surprised, impressed even.

    As for enjoying hand planing those slabs - no wonder you can't make any money. I'd be using a router sled. Unless you have "a name" hand tools = hungry. Flat is flat and customers don't care how you got there. But if you don't have to eat from it (me either, fortunately) you are entitled to work any way that pleases you most.

    Look forward to seeing more.

    John

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