Slab desk build

[ron david]

I wasn't comparing yours to Don's as there are just a point or two that I was trying to illustrate and I am not trying to put you down. I am pretty stingy on the words a time as it does come across as be a little blunt. there is an old saying about how the human body connects on it's way down. there will be some hear who may remember how it goes. I will see if I cam find it so that I can quote it properly. it relates to flow of parts and how they connect to make a whole. Don's piece has that. Don't tell him that I said that though
. I study forms and over the years I do see that a lot of table tops really do not connect with the legs. they are mostly trying to be different and most times different doesn't make it right
"simple is hard; elaborate is easy" C.F.A. Voysey, English arts and craft movement
ron

[Pat Barry]

It doesn't look to be strong enough for the amount of weight involved. Anyone moving this piece will have to work it a little at a time from each end to kinda walk it around. The stretcher will never hold up to torque loads like that. I think you need to add some substansial bracing, even if only on the back side of the top to side connection so the front looks clean. The stretcher really should be much lower to get the most strength

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, Pat. That's a good thought. Back bracing...

[Brian Holcombe]

Prashun,

The short grain doesn't add much, it may make it initially tight, but it may split if the table begins to rack. I normally leave a good bit of length after the joint to minimize the chance of this.

I think Pat's suggestion is a good one, the one stretcher alone without additional bracing is not likely to be enough.

[Prashun Patel]

Let me ask you guys this: how low should the table be to be ok with a single top stretcher? What is the rule of thumb with this?

[Brian Holcombe]

Standard height for a dining table and a desk are 28.5" tall.

Here is an original shaker table from the Met with a single underside stretcher;



The overall length on this is 96" and so given that measurement you can imagine the stretcher is massive, and the table is still also connected with another method to fix the top of the legs.

The year given is 1800-1825

It's worth noting that they pulled the legs and stretcher tight with draw pins, this would be impossible for your design, but it suggests the connection may need something pulling it tight to remain so.

Here is a Nakashima take on a shaker table, he lowers the stretcher a bit to give it leverage over the legs.

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks. I've built a similar Shaker Trestle table to this. The height of the stretcher is only about 5" and the top is only connected to the legs via turn-buttons. There has been no racking in 2 years; and I use this desk pretty well at work.
The design of my customer's table is only 6" taller, and I plan to Domino the 2" top into the legs. Won't this give me an effective stretcher of almost 8" - and it's 2" wide, where my Shaker trestle's stretcher is only 7/8" wide.

If this relatively delicate table won't rack, why would mine? Having finished gluing up the base, it feels pretty sturdy.

Customer's coming in tomorrow to discuss.

I wish one of you could come examine this in person; I normally abide by advice of those more skilled than I, but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the racking threat here. Thanks for the thoughts.

[Pat Barry]

Hey Prashun, did this project get finished up to yours and your customers satisfaction? Hoping you have a picture or two you could share. Thanks

[Prashun Patel]

Hi Pat. I was lazy to bring my camera in. The project's done. Like all projects, I learned a lot on this one. The client was happy, so I'm happy. They'll be using this as a standing computer desk.

I mounted the top to the base with Dominos. The DF700 made quick work of drilling 2" mortises into the top and bottom. I made my own tenons from scraps. I've come to enjoy the Domino tenon making process. It really allows you to dial in the fit and width. I finally made a small planing stop for Dominos that makes this easier. One nice thing about the DF700's long, fat tenons (vis-a-vis the DF500's) is that they're easier to make and precisely finesse than the tiny ones.

I made the bottom mortises in the top oversized to allow for movement. I glued the Dominos into the base, but left all of them unglued into the top. I learned from workbenches that gluing the top isn't really necessary in some situations, and in this case allows my friends to dis-assemble the table and move it should they wish.

The finish is Waterlox Original Sealer Finish. I vary my schedule from project to project for no other reason than I can't remember how I do it each time

I sanded to 600 (most say you don't need to go past 150 or 180, but if you're not coloring the wood, I challenge anyone to sand up to 600 and then proceed with the top coats, and see if you discover what I have.)
I've been recently adding a very small amount of BLO to my Waterlox because I find it lengthens the open time and is more forgiving of the wiping cloth; less swirls. The downside is that you can't really 'lay on' the finish. It will dry sticky. But if you're a wipe-on-wipe-off-thin-finish fan as am I, this is not a problem. If you notice the surface is a tad sticky between coats, just buff it with mineral spirits and let dry.

[John TenEyck]

Beautiful finish job Prashun. Happy to hear your client is happy. To me it's rather ho-hum, other than the finish. I guess I'm just not much of a live edge fan on what otherwise is a rather normal looking table, desk, etc. A stretcher down close to mid height would have improved the appearance IMHO, in addition to making the structure more robust. I know your client didn't want one, though.

John

[Prashun Patel]

I hear you John! I think the whole design would have benefited from a lot of 'lightening up'. I would have in fact routed the edges clean, and beveled the long edges underneath to lighten up the top.

[Jim Becker]

That's really beautiful, Prashun!

[Pat Barry]

Very nice. I think the photo of the desk in the cubbyhole is washing out the appearance of the walnut - it looked so nice in previous pictures I think its just an optical issue in these photo's. You do a great job of finishing. It would be cool if you could document this process and share it. For example, how did you pick up on using some BLO mixed in with the Waterlox?

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, Guys.

Pat, I started using BLO when I started making my own Danish oil. Most of the varnish products out there are a combination of varnish resin, mineral spirits, and possibly some oil. I found Flexner's book and Jeff Jewitt's writing very illuminating on how each of these components alters the finish. I learned a good deal (and continue to learn) from the guys on this forum (Steve, Howard, John T, Scott, Jim, and others). My hero is Mike Pekovitch from FWW. I hope to meet him some day.

I find that of all aspects of woodworking, there's the least understanding about finishing. A lot of reputable bloggers and podcasters out there, including Woodtalk and MWA, and FWW have all misspoken about varnish and oil/varnish blends. I'm surprised how many veteran woodworkers are intimidated by this aspect and end up making blanket statements like, "There's no reason to mix your own finish" or "Danish oil is a varnish".

I say, just get in there, mix your own and try things out. There's so much misleading or blanket information on this subject, that you can easily get turned around and confused.

[Brian Holcombe]

Looks good, the finish is very nice.