Rigging equipment to use with an engine hoist/shop crane

[Chris Merriam]

Howdy all. I've got a Sawstop PCS 3HP waiting at the store to be picked up. I've had all my other tools delivered, never had to pick one up in my truck before. I'll need to drop the saw in my garage, then wheel it around to the walkout basement. I've got a plan for that part, it's the lifting off the truck that I'm struggling with. I'm planning to rent an engine lift and pick up the saw from the tail of the truck (then install some casters for the trip to the basement).

My question is, the saw is on a pallet. What rope/chain/web material do I need to safely lift the pallet, and how many of each item? I've never had to do any fancy mechanical lifting so I'm not sure what's needed here.

My first thought is Harbor Freight sells lifting straps, so can I just get two of those and route them through the bottom of the pallet (one on each side), then connect all four ends to the hoist hook? Would that be stable or do I need to run webbing from both axis at once (front to back and side to side)?

Looking at their site, they seem to sell only a 6.5ft or a 20ft length. I'm guessing I'll need a length in between. Maybe I'll be better of with chain?

Thanks for any tips!

[Todd Burch]

I did this recently with a fully assembled 5HP Delta Unisaw with 52" rip fence and factory Delta out feed table, via an engine hoist.

I bought 4 tie-down straps rated at 300 lbs each. 4' straps, 4-pack, for $10. I attached one strap to each of the 4 bottom corners of the cabinet. I happen to also have a swaging tool ($140), so I bought about a foot of 3/16" wire rope and a 3/16" aluminum crimping sleeve. Maybe $5 for both. I made a wire hoop, about 4" in diameter. It's load rating was 816 lbs for the crimped sleeve. I attached the top hook of all 4 tie down straps to my hoop, and the hoop to the hoist, and did what you propose. Easy as pie.

I would not try to lift the saw and the pallet. Leave the pallet in the truck.

I had help to keep the side feed table supported, but without a side feed table, you'll be fine.

When I went to United Rentals to rent the hoist, for $86/day, I learned that it was for sale for $187, so I went ahead and bought it. I've used it twice so far - works great. My saw move was the second and unintended use.

Todd

[Don Jarvie]

You may want to rent a trailer or a truck with a lift gate. Keep in mind that you paid a lot of money for the saw so the extra money to haul may be worth the piece of mind.

[Marty Tippin]

I'd go rent a U-Haul drop-gate trailer (the kind used to haul motorcycles). Maybe $20 for the day. You can get the pallet off the trailer without much effort, either use some pipe to make rollers to go under it or wrestle it onto a furniture dolly and roll it off the trailer.

[Chris Merriam]

I did this recently with a fully assembled 5HP Delta Unisaw with 52" rip fence and factory Delta out feed table, via an engine hoist.

I bought 4 tie-down straps rated at 300 lbs each. 4' straps, 4-pack, for $10. I attached one strap to each of the 4 bottom corners of the cabinet. I happen to also have a swaging tool ($140), so I bought about a foot of 3/16" wire rope and a 3/16" aluminum crimping sleeve. Maybe $5 for both. I made a wire hoop, about 4" in diameter. It's load rating was 816 lbs for the crimped sleeve. I attached the top hook of all 4 tie down straps to my hoop, and the hoop to the hoist, and did what you propose. Easy as pie.

I would not try to lift the saw and the pallet. Leave the pallet in the truck.

I had help to keep the side feed table supported, but without a side feed table, you'll be fine.

When I went to United Rentals to rent the hoist, for $86/day, I learned that it was for sale for $187, so I went ahead and bought it. I've used it twice so far - works great. My saw move was the second and unintended use.

Todd

Thanks Todd, lifting from all four corners sure makes a lot more sense, feeling kind of dumb now. I do want to keep it on the pallet though. For one, the pallet will turn in to my "wagon" to push it through the yard, and two, the pallet is used to help stand the saw up later.

I like your idea of the lifting straps. HF sells a 4-pack, 400b load rating for $13. That's more than enough weight capacity. I just checked Lowes, going the chain route with connection hardware would be $50+.

I'm still leaving it open to renting a vehicle (because it's raining all weekend here ) so might go that route as well. I do have a tow hitch but have never towed anything with my old truck. It just sits out in the street until I have a yard job or some wood to pick up, so I'd rather not trust the hitch on it.

[John Huds0n]

In another thread - it was mentioned that SawStop should be able to provide free delivery if a dealer was in the same state - and you paid sales tax. Did you ask about it or perhaps try another dealer?

[Chris Merriam]

I bought at my Woodcraft. They didn't have it in stock and had to order it. Guess that's the price I pay to support local business!

[Steve Wilde]

Chris,
I just went through the same thing 2 weeks ago, I also bought a 3hp PCS. It will come on a pallet. The cast iron wings come in seperate packaging inside the pallet. I just took everything out that I could, and slid the saw, it comes on it's side, to the edge of the truck and used the cardboard packaging to slide it off of the bed of the truck onto the ground. I had my wife's help, and it was really pretty easy. I wouldn't go spend a bunch of money to do it, it's really not that hard. When you open the pallet you'll see what I mean. I'd pick it up before you made the decision to rent equipment for it. I had a tacoma to pick it up with as well.
Steve

[Chris Merriam]

Steve, so just the two of you were able to lower the saw from the tailgate to the ground? No ramps or anything?

[Steve Wilde]

No ramps, we just used a little friction with sliding it against the tailgate and lowered it down.... Trust me, you can do it. Save the money and buy a dado brake!

[Ole Anderson]

Save the money and buy a dado brake!

to go with your flux capacitor.

[John Donhowe]

+1 on Steve's suggestion. Last summer my wife and I helped my son move his new 1.75 hp SS PCS out of the back of his RAV4. We removed as many parts as we could from the box, and slid it out to a platform from which we could lift on all sides to lower to his garage floor. Definitely doable without lifting equipment or muscle men. By the way, assembly instructions and layout are second to none- sheer joy! Enjoy.

[Chris Merriam]

Thanks folks!

[John Sanford]

Ditto on no need for the lifting gear. My son, myself and a neighbor easily handled getting a 3hp PCS out of the back of my F150. As noted, open up the box (it has cut lines marked), remove everything except the big honkin cabinet, then you can just slide it off the end/lower it to the ground. We did it on the pallet, because it's easier to grab the pallet than it is to keep a grip on a big cardboard box, but either way can work.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Chris,

Here's what the Woodcraft salesman suggested when I picked up my PCS.

Put a pair of 2x12s in the back of your truck. Have the store place the pallet on the 2x12s close to the cab.

When you get home pull the 2x12s out the back of your truck then push down on the ends. The saw will slide down the boards to the driveway. Have a couple HF movers dollys to put under the pallet and you can push it anywhere you want.

Worked wonderfully for me.

Cliff