Sub-panel question

[Chris Padilla]

I did make an attempt to search the stickied post regarding the NEC but really didn't find the answer to my question.

I have a sub-panel that services all my pool equipment (pumps/motors, heaters, light, etc.) that I want to move from the side of my house and into the new pool shed I'm going to erect.

We are busting up the pool decking so now is the perfect time to bury whatever stuff I want to do.

I want to extend the lines from the old sub-panel location at my house to the new location at the pool shed. Can I splice these lines and put them in a junction box and feed from there to the new sub-panel location? Or do the sub-panel wires need to be unbroken straight from the main panel all the way to the pool shed? Or is that up to the AHJ?

Of course, I'd like to splice the lines...I have length for that right now. If I have to run it from the main panel, I gotta go buy new wire for that. $$$s

Thanks

[Anthony Whitesell]

I do not know if they must be unbroken. Interesting question, I too would like to know the answer. On the other hand using a junction box would require mounting the junction box in nearly the exact same spot as the current subpanel. It would be in the same spot because there is not likely to be enough slack to move it and all junction boxes must be accessible so you can't bury or cover it.

[David Castor]

As long as the splice is accessible and in a proper box or enclosure, it is allowed.

[Lee Schierer]

So how much would you expect to pay to have continuous wiring with no splices that might corrode over time in an outside box?

[Mike Henderson]

So how much would you expect to pay to have continuous wiring with no splices that might corrode over time in an outside box?

If you're worried about corrosion solder the connections.

Mike

[John Huds0n]

So how much would you expect to pay to have continuous wiring with no splices that might corrode over time in an outside box?

It has been my experience that on heavier gauge wires - you use a something like a "split bolt connector" which then gets wrapped in a good quality electrical tape. Using a 'weather proof' junction box, corrosion shouldn't be a problem

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender...Bolt+Connector

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks for the comments.

The original sub-panel is fed from within my crawlspace so access, while not fun and not quick, is fine. I can easily put a j-box in the crawlspace, wire nut up the original wire to new wire, and be off to the races. It is #10 wire so quite reasonable to twist and cap.

Lee, I haven't looked at the cost of #10 lately but I'd need 4 of 'em (black, red, white, green/bare) and a run of around 75' each. That is a lot more money than bascially zero if I can splice not to mention the extra time pulling from the main panel.

[Tom M King]

I thought you were talking about service entrance cable, but now I see you're just talking about #10 which you don't need the taps linked to below. It would be nice if you could get it all out of one 250' roll. I had already written the post below, and will just leave it in case it's useful to anyone else about splicing heavy wires.



Special boxes are available with the proper sized lugs for just this job, or you buy the double sided lugs you need and the box that they will fit in. You won't find them in the big box stores, but dedicated electrical supplies have them. They also sell the wire significantly cheaper, but I understand in some states that you need a license to buy from such suppliers.

Here is a link to the manufacturer of these splicing lugs that most people use. Each opening comes with a plastic cap. The one to the side has a big Allen screw under it.http://ecat.burndy.com/Comergent/bur...p_brochure.pdf

I usually use the Multi-tap ones the right size for all the conductors in the line. They're covered with a thick clear plastic insulator. You can scroll down on that pdf to see them

[Anthony Whitesell]

Thanks for the comments.

The original sub-panel is fed from within my crawlspace so access, while not fun and not quick, is fine. I can easily put a j-box in the crawlspace, wire nut up the original wire to new wire, and be off to the races. It is #10 wire so quite reasonable to twist and cap.

Lee, I haven't looked at the cost of #10 lately but I'd need 4 of 'em (black, red, white, green/bare) and a run of around 75' each. That is a lot more money than bascially zero if I can splice not to mention the extra time pulling from the main panel.

Code only requires accessible. I too was thinking larger wire. At the same time, I would use something more than wire nuts. Something with bite that would provide a secure long term connection without worry of oxidation. Mr. Kings is an option but maybe be overkill, but some type of lug or bolt down connection would be better than wire nuts.

P.S. I'm not sure what the NEC or AHJ says about soldering.

[Ole Anderson]

I would have no problem with wire nuts as long as the conductors are twisted first. But that is me. Some wire nut boxes claim it is not necessary to twist first. But then back stab outlets are supposed to be ok too.

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

Personally I would use split bolt connectors and good electrical tape covered with liquid tape.

[Chris Padilla]

What about this underground splice kit?

This looks like I wouldn't even need a j-box to put the splice into. Just hook up the extension wires and pull it on through the conduit to the pool shed. If one could trust a splice like this underground, protected in a conduit should be even better, no?

[Tom M King]

I'm sure that would work fine, but I'd still put it in a box. That heat shrink tubing is nothing like as tough as the original wire covering. There are many thousands of those underwater in wells everywhere, or at least connectors very similar.