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Thread: New Arrival! Sawstop PCS

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    452
    I've been up and running for a few days now. I decided to live with the scratches on the sliding table top. I just used a black sharpie to blend them in. I couldn't find another one anywhere in the country. It could be another 6-8 weeks and I couldn't bring myself to sending it back. Even though CPO tools was going to pick up the return shipping no problem. I'm told it's because of the dock strikes in San Diego. Anyhoo, the assembly went smoothly. It's easier to install than an extension wing, the bolts are accessed from the top of the table and the legs keep it relatively aligned while you're attaching it. I've made some cuts, I'm overall pleased with the way it handles for crosscutting and ripping. There are a couple of gripes I have so far:
    • The switch box is now mounted under the sliding table, it is set way too far back for my likes. I'd like to be able to bump the paddle switch with my knee if I needed to if I get into trouble.
    • The stops on the sliding table fence are junk and out of square with the fence. This is a common gripe and it is true. I need to modify but I shouldn't have to.

    The slider works super smooth and has a smaller foot print than my Excalibur did and overall I'm happy and would buy it again. Oh, BTW, I mounted the sliding rail flush with the front of the saw table to reduce it's footprint and normally you need to drill holes for this alternate way of attaching. ... and redrill and tap new holes for the switch box on the underside. Even though the instructions show you how, when I went to drill them, they are already drilled from the factory and the new holes for the switch box are drilled and tapped too. They just haven't rewritten the manual. That's nice, the aluminum is a full 5/16" thick and I was nervous about drilling some accurate holes freehand. And BTW, speaking of manuals, as nice as the saw's manual were written and hardware packed and organized, the ones for the sliding table are written just like any other power tool I've bought, written poorly and with bags of nuts and bolts rather than the nice blister pack for the saw and fence.

    16930089162_12377fb078.jpg16745182979_7e914d0bc6.jpg16311350543_53cf348b96.jpg

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    231
    I'm really intrigued by this slider. Don't need one, but still intrigued by it.
    Last edited by Dave Haughs; 03-26-2015 at 8:57 AM.

  3. #33
    I agree that the paddle switch seems a bit too far back, although I do see it mounted different with your sliding table.

    How do you feel about the table height? I'm sure I'll get used to it, but it is about 2" lower than my old R4512. Maybe this is common with cabinet saws, I'm not sure and I haven't looked at specs.

    Also, did your throat plate come pre-cut? Mine did, which is a bit frustrating because it can't be zero clearance for any blade any more, let alone the fact that I only have thin kerf blades (due to having the R4512 and also having the 1.75 HP now). I realize I'll probably have to get another for angled cuts, but I wish I had that option to decide how and when to cut the throat plate.

    I'm excited to actually make some real cuts with the saw! Finishing up another project right now and the only thing I've cut so far is random pieces of 2x4's for my 5 year-old son's "train" that he's making.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Monroe View Post
    I agree that the paddle switch seems a bit too far back, although I do see it mounted different with your sliding table.

    How do you feel about the table height? I'm sure I'll get used to it, but it is about 2" lower than my old R4512. Maybe this is common with cabinet saws, I'm not sure and I haven't looked at specs.

    Also, did your throat plate come pre-cut? Mine did, which is a bit frustrating because it can't be zero clearance for any blade any more, let alone the fact that I only have thin kerf blades (due to having the R4512 and also having the 1.75 HP now). I realize I'll probably have to get another for angled cuts, but I wish I had that option to decide how and when to cut the throat plate.

    I'm excited to actually make some real cuts with the saw! Finishing up another project right now and the only thing I've cut so far is random pieces of 2x4's for my 5 year-old son's "train" that he's making.
    I agree that it seems lower or smaller but it doesn't bother me at all. The switch position is going to be a problem though. The locking knob for the slider is located underneath where I think the switch box should be. That's why it's a problem. I have a machinist friend that I hope will help me out. Like anything, we're used to what we had and it will take some time to get comfortable. I am thoroughly impressed with the fit and finish of everything and the way it cuts wood like butter.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,494
    Blog Entries
    1
    Congrats Jim. Have you thought about mounting the switch box to the slider's leg? I'm just judging from the pics so this may not be viable.

    Its too bad about the stops. I too have seen a lot of negative press on these from this otherwise outstanding company. If I was Saw Stop I would issue a recall and supply improved stops as soon as they could be made available. This could take a while but, the formal notice of intent would calm a lot of internet grumblings. Surely there is room to cover this in the $1000 price tag.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Pleasant Grove, UT
    Posts
    1,503
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Congrats Jim. Have you thought about mounting the switch box to the slider's leg? I'm just judging from the pics so this may not be viable.

    Its too bad about the stops. I too have seen a lot of negative press on these from this otherwise outstanding company. If I was Saw Stop I would issue a recall and supply improved stops as soon as they could be made available. This could take a while but, the formal notice of intent would calm a lot of internet grumblings. Surely there is room to cover this in the $1000 price tag.
    The $1,000 Made In China price tag. Unlike the saw itself, which is Made In Taiwan, the slider is Made In China.
    It came to pass...
    "Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
    The road IS the destination.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    452
    I've started another thread on how to tuneup the flip stops here:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...09#post2397309

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