Waterlox satin final coat

[matt perry]

Good Day everyone,

I am finishing a cherry dining table and want some advise. Here is what was done so far and the problems I have encountered. 4 coats of Waterlox O/S applied with a brush and 24 hours dry time between each coat. I then wet sanded the 4th coat with soapy water to get the surface smooth. I then brushed on a final coat of Waterlox Satin thinned with 50% MS (I have ready many negatives about the satin; however, I wanted to give it a try. I also wanted to thin it b/c this is in my workshop and was hoping to prevent dust nibs and a faster dry time) While the luster is great and exactly the look I wanted, the satin puddled in several spots on the table. The tabletop is not perfectly level by design, I wanted the wood to look a little aged or reclaimed. So I contacted Waterlox support but didn't get much help. I intend to sand it back down with 1000 grit ROS, just enough to remove the satin layer. I am looking for suggestions for how to apply my last coat? Should I wipe on the satin and then wipe off, wipe on and leave on, thin/not thin or give up on the satin and use original (I have read that the gloss settles but I wanted like 25% gloss, not the settled down 50%). I have never rubbed out a finish and have read that its more difficult on a larger tabletop that is not level. Basically I was worried about not having a consistent sheen by rubbing out. Here is a pic before the Satin went on. No pics of the puddling but it looks terrible. Image.jpg

[Kent A Bathurst]

Thin the last coat 50/50 to get a wiping version.

Wipe on a thin coat using Scott Blue paper towel. The conventional instructions are "like a kid wiping the table at Denny's".

Leave it - don't wipe off. It will dry past dust-nibs stage in 30 minutes or so - - won't prevent them, but minimized as compared to a brush-on coat.

You just need a very thin layer of the satin to break up the light reflections.

But - - as you sand back the satin, you will be going into the gloss, and will distort the gloss finish anyway. So - you might be fine with that look, without the satin. Using micromesh + ROS is a common practice to rub-out a finish - remove the dust nibs, plus move thru the grits to hit your target gloss level. That might work better for you, overall.

[matt perry]

Thanks Kent. Regarding this final sanding with micromesh...should I dry sand or use a lubricant? thanks again

[Kent A Bathurst]

You might want to read this earlier thread. Some good stuff.

In direct response to your specific question - go to post #8 from Scott [Obi-Wan] Holmes


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...a-GLOSS-finish

[Dan Hahr]

Your schedule is fine but if you are getting puddling, you are wiping it on too heavily. I use it the same way, but when I wipe on the satin, I thin it and wipe it on just wetting the surface. I do a couple of coats and check the sheen. Sometimes it takes a few more to even it out.

Dan

[Bill McNiel]

I have used both approaches (rub-out & satin finish coat) and would suggest the Micro-Mesh approach for maximum control over the final sheen, this has been my "go to" finish for quite a while. If going with this approach don't use satin at all, the Original Sealer Finish will rub-out to any sheen you choose.

If you choose to go with a satin topcoat then use Kent's application technique except that I don't thin the satin (I worry about the solids getting mixed in properly and IME the satin is allready thin enough). I apply the satin with a folded blue shop towel "like the kid from Denny's", just wetting the entire surface, but then smooth/level with long strokes with the grain. No final sanding required assumiong no dust nibs, hair or dead creatures.