As soon as I get home will post pics at the ER right now think I have the Flu. Dont Know if this matters or not but it has forward and reverse switch.
[OP]
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As soon as I get home will post pics at the ER right now think I have the Flu. Dont Know if this matters or not but it has forward and reverse switch.
Member
Yes it matters that you have the forward and reverse switch, I think. Does it look like somebody add that switch later? Or, is there another box cover on the machine? What I not seeing is where you hook your cord wires (the feed).... your existing cord has two hot, neutral and a ground. If you switch to 110 volts, you only need 1 each of hot, neutral and a ground...... you see where I'm heading? The diagram doesn't seem to show where you hook up the cord, too!
I hope you don't have the flu, otherwise get well soon!
Member
Ignore this post, I posted it before I knew there was a reversing switch. See following post.
I was going to say:
You need to move the #4 wire to the lug with the #2 and #6 wires currently on it. Then move the #3 and #5 wire to the lug that the #1 wire is currently on. The current lug which currently has the #2, #3 and #5 wire on it will be empty after the afore mentioned wire moves. -- Assuming that you want to go from clockwise rotation 220v to clockwise rotation 110v.
Per the wiring diagram.
But you have 4 wires coming in from the plug. Most likely 3 hot wires and a ground which would imply you have a 3ph motor. I can't imagine why you would have black, red, white and green wires unless the motor is 3ph.
Please post a picture of the plate on the motor. Does it say 3ph? Is there a capacitor anywhere on the motor? Probably not which would also lead me to believe it is a 3ph motor. The posted wiring diagram does not seem to match the motor.
Last edited by Mike Schuch; 03-22-2015 at 5:34 AM.
Member
Hmmm.... A reversing switch? Does the #6 wire (Red?) from the motor go to the same terminal as the white wire from the incoming cable (right center terminal)? That would explain the extra wire coming in on the cable and how the reversing switch is accomplished. You can still wire it for 110v but you will loose the reversing switch functionality and the motor will only spin in the direction you wire it for.Originally Posted by Chris worley
If it is as I believe, the Red wire from the motor is wire #6 and it is connected to the terminal with the white wire on it from the cable then it all makes sense. In the diagram the #6 wire is moved from one hot incoming leg to the other hot incoming leg to reverse the direction of the motor. This switching is actually done at the reversing switch in the switch box via the white wire.
If you wanted the motor to be wired for 110v and still have the reversing switch functionality you would need the reversing switch to be a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw - 6 terminals on it) switch AND you would need to run a cable with 5 conductors in it between the power / reversing switch to the motor instead of the current 4 conductor cable.
If the #6 wire from the motor is in fact currently wired to the terminal with the white wire from the cable on it then you can --> Put wires #2, #4, and #6 from the motor on the very left most terminal. Put wires #1, #3 and #5 on the right most terminal. The 2 center terminals on the terminal strip will no longer have any wires from the motor on them. Leave the white wire on the right center terminal post where it is, it will not be used any more and the reversing switch will be disabled. The motor will run on 110v and always spin clockwise! Pretty easy!
I hope I don't need to tell you to unplug the machine from the wall before touching anything!
P.S. Hope you feel better!
Last edited by Mike Schuch; 03-22-2015 at 5:32 AM.
[OP]
Member
Everything in my shop is on 110 would it just be easier to put a 220 breaker and wire to my shop just for this sander. Really appreciate all the replies and nope negative for flu just bad case of bronchitis
Member
So many unknowns to us in this problem. It would help to have a picture of a motor plate to know the hp and the amp draw of the motor. I doubt it would be 3-phase if it has a 110V option. If it's a big motor, there's a chance that you might not have the capability of running it on a regular 110V outlet, which are typically on 15A or 20A circuits. The motor will have twice the amp draw at 110V that it has 220V. The motor plate should have the amps on it -- both at 110V and at 220V. If the amp draw of the motor at 110V exceeds the breaker amps on the outlet on which you're hoping to run it, you will have to add a new line (preferably 220V). If you have other things running on that same 110V circuit (lights, refrigerator, whatever?) then you have to take their cumulative amp draws off the breaker amps to find out how many amps you have left to run your planer. Like I mentioned -- too many unknowns for us right now.
Side note: Do not swap out a 15A breaker with a 20A breaker to increase your available amps on that circuit. If the wiring in the walls or the outlets are not heavy enough to support a 20A draw, you could start a fire.
[OP]
Member
Here is some pics hope this help guys. PicsArt_1427031931751.jpgScreenshot_2015-03-22-09-48-08.jpgScreenshot_2015-03-22-09-48-14.jpg
Member
Looks like it is indeed a switchable 120/220 motor. Did you see the current draw on 120v though? 24 amps is a specialty circuit.
Contributor
The data plate calls for 24 amps on 110v, which is not common for a 110v circuit. If you want to stick to 110v then you'll need to put in a dedicated 30amp circuit.
The other option, and the best one IMO is to put in a 220v circuit and run it on 220v.
Mike
Member
I've got to fold on the figuring-out-how-to-rewire-the-motor thing. That wiring diagram just doesn't make any sense to me, even after seeing your pic with the numbered wires. The motor plate pic was very helpful, though. Single phase motor. The amps/hp ratio seems a little high to me, but it could just be a very inefficient motor. Also, I tend to take hp ratings on some machines with a grain of salt. I'd be more inclined to believe the amp ratings, as they're easily measurable.
As Mike said, you'd need a 30A circuit to run that thing on 115V. Chances are that you don't have that in your shop. It's not very common. Not impossible, but not common. Since it looks like you're going to have to run a new line anyway, I'd bail on the guessing game of trying to convert it, and just leave it to run on 230V. Install a 20A/230V circuit and outlet and you're done. BTW, motors run better on 230V than they do on 115V, and the amp draw is less, so your wires don't need to be as heavy. Power consumption ($ to run the machine) will be the same either way.
Last edited by Keith Weber; 03-22-2015 at 2:55 PM.
Member
That's kind of silly, the only thing I have in my shop that doesn't stop quickly is one of my grinders and it stops spinning on it's own after maybe 3-4 minutes. I don't use it very often so it's never been an issue. I don't think I'd put up with a tool spinning for 16 minutes under no power.
Member
If the #6 wire from the motor is in fact currently wired to the terminal with the white wire from the cable on it then you can --> Put wires #2, #4, and #6 from the motor on the very left most terminal. Put wires #1, #3 and #5 on the right most terminal. The 2 center terminals on the terminal strip will no longer have any wires from the motor on them. Leave the white wire on the right center terminal post where it is, it will not be used any more and the reversing switch will be disabled. The motor will run on 110v and always spin clockwise! Pretty easy!
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