QSWO on 4 leg sides. How to finish the exposed end

[Ron Kanter]

Here is my latest example of a little knowledge is a dangerous woodworking technique.

I'm planing to make a Morris chair. After reading up on how to make the chair, I decided to make the foot stool first. Seemed like a productive way to practice the techniques - smaller pieces = smaller errors.

To economically make the 2" square legs of the stool with ray fleck on all four sides, I laminated three pieces together: two figured quarter sawn strips with a ordinary oak strip in the middle. I then glued thin, figured veneer pieces on the two sides of the leg that showed the glue lines and didn't have any figure. So far, so good. Figure on all four sides.

OOPS. The legs of the stool have a 5th side that is visible. One end of each leg will be seen. Unlike the chair where the top of the legs are mortised into the arms, the top of the stool legs are just sitting out there with the end grain laminations clearly visible. DUH!

My first thought is to add another little veneer lamination to the top of the leg. In effect continuing the up one side, over the top, and down the other side with the figured veneer.
My second thought is to post here for some advice. Will wood movement a cause a problem for a "Veneer Topper" stay in place?
Is there a better solution?
Thanks.

[Winton Applegate]

Does one REALLY have to have ray fleck on all sides of a leg ?
Isn't it more fun to have it be something the eye discovers here and there ?
I know . . . you have made the legs already . . . how about a metal "cap" or epoxy coat the end and prime and paint it a pleasing color . . . or a piece of tile . . . or
oh I don't know you ask hard questions.

PS: oh, oh, oh . . . how about a thicker than veneer cap piece of ebony attached along one layer ala Green and Green ebony details.

[Bob Snyder - Austin]

Personally I don't see an problem with a little end grain. I wouldn't put anything on it. Smooth it and finish as normal. Depending on what finish you're putting on, perhaps a little sealer on the end grain. You're going to have other places on the chair that have end grain.

[Kent A Bathurst]

If you have beveled the sides at the end, the veneered bits won't stand out.

Sand the end grain up through 320. Then, put on a couple very light coats of 1# shellac.

You have burnished and sealed the end grain. Dye/stain will not absorb as much as normal, so you will get a tone and depth very similar to the long grain.

[Ron Kanter]

Thanks guys.
Winton, You raise a good point. It would be most natural NOT to have ray fleck on four sides. And I like the ebony cap idea, hmmmm??
Bob, it isn't the end grain per se that I object to. It is seeing the end grain of at least three pieces and the glue lines between them.
Kent, I will bevel the veneer sides so they aren't a problem. I will try your suggestion of sanding and sealing.

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Ron,

I would also suggest finishing the end grain and depending on the orientation of the boards, the joint may not be very visible. If it is, I'd consider a cap, also with end grain showing if you have any 8/8 stock, set within the four faces and chamfered. Would be tricky to pull of well though.

Good of luck and send pictures of your brilliant save. We'll keep you secret.

C

[Ron Kanter]

Based on multiple suggestions that the multiple layers of finished end grain wouldn't be too noticeable, I went ahead and cut slight pyramids on the tops of the legs.
Here's what it looks like:
[image][/image]

This is without any finish or sanding. The saw kind of burnished the wood. Looks fine to me. I actually like seeing the end grain where there should be end grain.
Thanks again for taking the time to respond. This is really a great group.

[Eric Brown]

I like the end grain AND veneer layers showing on your legs. If nothing else someday someone will notice and maybe ask you why you veneered them. Then you can educate them on what quarter sawn means and perhaps lead someone else into woodworking. Good luck. Eric

[Kent A Bathurst]

This is without any finish or sanding. The saw kind of burnished the wood.

I still suggest sanding thru 320, then shellac sealer, if you want the depth and tone to match the rest of the piece. Otherwise, it will get real dark with dye absorption.

[Pat Barry]

I suppose, using any technique to laminate the legs will result in grain matching challenges. This is why the veneer lamination is typically thicknessed so the line of lamination will end at a chamfer - a chamfered corner can help to hide that seam/ grain boundary. This is true on the leg vertical surfaces and the top of the through tenon or just top of an exposed leg.

[Eric Brown]

An interesting idea for using the veneer was popularized by Stickley making mass produced furniture. What he did was use boards that were about 3/4" thick and rip then to about 1 1/2" wide, then gluing two of them up to 1 1/2" thick squares for legs. The veneers then covered the lamination seam and gave a quarter sawn look on all four sides. This technique allows use of one board to make the furniture. No need to buy both thick and thin stock. Enjoy. Eric