Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 26 of 26

Thread: Building a strip Spring Run kayak

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5,582
    Just saw this video tonight and it reminded me of your project
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7qiXZqrvfI

  2. #17
    That's a great video. Kinda makes me wish I was doing a canoe. The bends would be easier.

    Made a little progress tonight. Got the stations screwed on to the risers and fit a test shear strip temporarily. Looks pretty good. The shear strip is just a ripped from a 2x4 scarfed together. Now to get working on the bow and stern forms.
    image.jpg

  3. #18
    It's been a while since I posted. I'll try and get pics up soon. I have made small but significant progress. I now have the internal bow and stern stems shaped and in place. I used a really dry 2x4 I had laying around for this. Ripped a bunch of strips on the bandsaw for the bent lamination. I then shaped it will a spokeshave, leaving a little left for shaping as I lay the strips.

    Next, I started using my track to rip the strips. Found out I may be somewhat allergic to red cedar dust. A respirator is in my future. Once I had the shear strips scarfed (using jack plane) and ready, I dry fitted them to the forms. I found that the shear line dipped a bit in the center which required some form adjustment. I made sure to take my time here because I didn't want to wrestle ever strip because of a mistake.

    Then I was ready for the big moment. I must admit that setting the shear strips made me nervous. So, I grabbed a beer and sat for a moment. I then figured "if you screw this up, you can always make another strip". The strips went on pretty easy using staples. At the bow and stern, I stapled the strip to the internal stem and wrapped it in tap to get good wood to wood contact.

    Then the next strip came. Remember, I am trying to go stapleless and rolling bevel. I practice hand beveling on some scrap strips so I could get the hang of holding and planing. In all honesty, it really wasnt very hard and I really started get the hang of it after the 1st half strip. I just made sure to test fit often. I used little wood jig clamps to hold the strip down and applied masking tap in the middle of the forms for extra clamping pressure.

    At the end of the day, by the time I roll the bevel, glue it down, switch sides, do the same and the scarf four more strips (for the next night), I could probably get two rows per side done each night. The rolling bevel is a bit zen like. It's a quite, focused tempo motion that is kind of relaxing.

  4. #19
    Another side note. I wound up buying one of the $15 adjustable mouth block planes from Lowes (Kobalt brand). I figured for $15 why not. Cleaned it up, lapped the sole (which was dead flat lengthwise but a little concave through the width) and sharpened the blade. Total of maybe 30min. It really works pretty darn well. The adjustment knob is OK but for $15 it takes nice shavings. Just fine for my needs.

  5. #20
    Couple of quick pics. Internal bow stem.
    IMG_0725.jpg
    Good fit after hand bevel.
    IMG_0726.jpg
    $15 Kobalt block plane works great!
    IMG_0728.jpg

  6. #21
    Got another strip per side on last night. This second strip was much easier than the prior seeing as I already had a totally straight edge to lay it against.
    IMG_0731.jpg
    As for the rolling bevel, this one took a lot less than the strip that butted up against the shear strip. I think (for me) the rolling bevel was definitely the right choice. I can already see areas where I will probably need little to no bevel at all.

    Also started fitting the first cheater strip in (3rd strip from top). I marked the line and used the band saw to take off most of the waste.
    IMG_0729.jpg
    The rest has been using the block plane and checking the fit often. Nice little curlies.
    IMG_0732.jpg
    Things to note as of now:
    1) Tape is you friend. Always have a roll close by.
    2) 2" spring clamps are you second best friend. Buy a bunch, they are only $1
    3) Get a good glue technique and bottle. I'm using a French's mustard bottle which works great because the hole is small and the shape of the nozzle allows me to run it up against the strips as a guide when gluing.
    4) Be careful when removing the tape from the cedar, it can lift fibers (a little presanding helps here)
    5) Despite wanting to go stapeless, I have use a few staples in difficult areas (shear strip, close to the bow and stern stems)
    6) Leave tools on the strongback. It sucks having to constantly walk all the way around the yak to get something. I know this is small but it breaks your rhythm.

    That's it for now. Hopefully tonight I can get one more strip on the other side and start working on the cheaters on the bow and stern. Once that's done, the rest of the hull will be much easier.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Neither here nor there
    Posts
    3,831
    Blog Entries
    6
    Looking great. Don't sweat the use of a few staples or even nails here and there. There are some strips with so much twist that you have to do so.

  8. #23
    Had a lot to get done this weekend, but managed to get a few more strips done and a couple of cheater strips. I will say that I took about 5min yesterday to take some sand paper and kind of "fair" a spot of the hull just to see. Can wait until I can fair the entire thing.

    Couple of more lessons learned:
    7) All of my strips (cut with track saw) were not exactly the same width. Not a big deal (will require a little more fairing) accept if you are scarfing together the ends. It just doesn't work, therefore I may more attention to what strips I match for scarfing.
    8) Be careful when planing cheater strips. Those fresh 90 degree wooden edges can be sharp (still stings as I type)
    9) Applying glue to the cheater strips are a pain in the arse. Don't have any advice on this one.
    10) Do not skimp on using tape. If you tape clamp a middle section down and it doesn't look tight enough, tape right next to it again.
    11) If you have a small gap that won't go away, you can slip a long thing shaving into it to fill the void.

    IMG_0749[1].jpg

  9. #24
    Kevin....boat looks great so far.. it's really coming along nicely.... seeing this thread brings back memories of years ago when I made a Cedar strip canoe in my basement... watching you progress almost makes me want to do it again!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #25
    Thanks Barry. A canoe just might be next on the list. Something I could take my boys out in. That is unless they each want a kayak, then it's stitch and glue time!

    I know not many people probably click on the Boat Building section, but for those who do, this project has been a LOT of fun so far. I actually find it relaxing. Once you get the milling out of the way, it's really a lot of hand fitting and sculpting. I turn on the radio, maybe crack open a beer and take my time.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Pleasant Valley MD. U.S.A.
    Posts
    566
    Great work Barry I like the stripes! keep up the good work.

    Bruce


    My Handle is Splinterz25 on most forums.

    Jack Of All Master Of None

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •