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Thread: In the doghouse...

  1. #16
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    Not as difficult or time consuming as you may think -- it's all repetitive cuts, rafters, walls, etc. both sides are the same as are the ends with the exception of the opening.

    If you want it to last, you really need to build a 'wall' 2x3's work good -- 100 people, let's say you get 5 good work hours of of them, that's 500 man hours, divided by 50 dog house, gives you 10 man hours build time for each dog house -- I think you can do much more than a plywood box screwed together with that amount of manpower.
    Last edited by Mort Stevens; 03-25-2015 at 1:57 AM.

  2. #17
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    You should aim for building two designs. One large, one smaller. Shoot for as much commonality as possible.

    IF you can swing it, try to use Insulated Structural Panels for the roof. Doing so will make it easy to do a build that doesn't result in the pooches baking in their houses. You may be able to convince a builder and/or lumber supplier to provide the panels. It may not take very many.
    It came to pass...
    "Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
    The road IS the destination.

  3. #18
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    Jul 2012
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    Mercer Island
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    Maybe do more research on wood. I recall cedar being toxic to dogs if chewed. A quick google search found this - not germane perhaps but something to consider.

    http://m.humanesociety.org/animals/r...gers_pets.html

    Cedar and other soft wood shavings, including pine, emit fumes that may be dangerous to small mammals like hamsters and gerbils.

  4. #19
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    I like this design, it has a lifted floor to get the dog up off the ground.
    That will make it tolerable in colder climates.

    I recommend prefabricated plywood sides.
    Shiplap and tacked on panels are nice,
    but plywood will make the skin stiff.

    It will also be easier for complete
    Newbies to handle.

  5. #20
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    Sep 2009
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    Midland MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mort Stevens View Post


    Not as difficult or time consuming as you may think -- it's all repetitive cuts, rafters, walls, etc. both sides are the same as are the ends with the exception of the opening.

    If you want it to last, you really need to build a 'wall' 2x3's work good -- 100 people, let's say you get 5 good work hours of of them, that's 500 man hours, divided by 50 dog house, gives you 10 man hours build time for each dog house -- I think you can do much more than a plywood box screwed together with that amount of manpower.
    that's a dog mansion, I might want to stay in there.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Portland Or
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Matthews View Post
    I like this design, it has a lifted floor to get the dog up off the ground.
    That will make it tolerable in colder climates.

    I recommend prefabricated plywood sides.
    Shiplap and tacked on panels are nice,
    but plywood will make the skin stiff.

    It will also be easier for complete
    Newbies to handle.
    I agree with all the above. I would also push towards thinking of a more modern design, as I think going that route could allow for a more simple structure that looks good. Simple changes like a shed roof save considerable time, and can look great when compared to the tried and true gable dog house.

    Even T1-11 might be a nice design if run horizontally, and save considerable time over shingles of basically any type.

    As an aside, I know of boat building groups that do something like this making quick plywood based boats with volunteers over a weekend. It might be worth looking at their approach to see if there are any lessons to be gleaned.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    Erik,
    Why subject a dog to PT material?

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Ellen Benkin View Post
    Erik,
    Why subject a dog to PT material?
    Ellen, why not?

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cody michael View Post
    that's a dog mansion, I might want to stay in there.
    Cody,

    This is a dog mansion

    Dog Apartment.jpeg

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ellen Benkin View Post
    Erik,
    Why subject a dog to PT material?
    I agree with this. Poor little pooch doesn't need all those PT chemicals. Save the PT for the undercarriage / ground contact only.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    Cody,

    This is a dog mansion

    Dog Apartment.jpeg
    Nice. HUD would want to see a railing on that stairway though, and a much higher railing around the rooftop balcony

  12. #27
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    Feb 2008
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    Lawrenceburg, Tenn.
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    I would use plywood paneling for the sides, as it would make it look like individual boards and yet be simple and structural. For the roofs, I would use sheet roofing, as without seams, it is likely to last forever.

    Doc
    As Cort would say: Fools are the only folk on the earth who can absolutely count on getting what they deserve.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Sunbury, PA
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    7
    I think that this question should first be posed to the intended recipients. Most rescues that I have encountered don't use individual dog houses, they have larger buildings with kennel spaces. Some rescues are breed specific and even if they aren't, you need to know whether you are building for Dachshunds or Great Danes. Get the basic requirements and then develop expandable designs.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Deep South
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mort Stevens View Post


    Not as difficult or time consuming as you may think -- it's all repetitive cuts, rafters, walls, etc. both sides are the same as are the ends with the exception of the opening.

    If you want it to last, you really need to build a 'wall' 2x3's work good -- 100 people, let's say you get 5 good work hours of of them, that's 500 man hours, divided by 50 dog house, gives you 10 man hours build time for each dog house -- I think you can do much more than a plywood box screwed together with that amount of manpower.
    That is one cool looking dog house but I expect that both the volunteers and the dogs would prefer a shelter without windows.

  15. #30
    All good comments. I would probably use 3/4 CDX plywood for the structure. It will make the doghouses heavy but with free materials and labor that isn't as important. The 3/4 (usually 23/32) material will be easier to screw into. Pneumatic nails are more consistent with 50 in a day but screws - outdoor deck screws - with glue would be more foolproof for unskilled and make for stronger doghouses. You'd need a bunch of cordless drills or impact drivers, however, to get them done. I'd add runners of PT 2x4s to the bottom in case they will set on concrete or the ground. Finish would be paint. Top would be shingled (but you would have to use short nails so they don't project in and nick the doggies.

    You could also use 1/2 plywood if you added 3/4 blocking at the corners - but that is more work. I'm worried about too much splitting and misses if you try to directly screw into 1/2 material. Pocket screws would be another way to make assembly easier for unskilled if you have a good setup to drill all the recesses (or enough jigs to turn the unskilled loose on it).

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