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Thread: aluminium grid

  1. #1
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    aluminium grid

    Ok i have bought new aluminum grid for my table on my epilog i have the old frame clean and ready to glue. Any ideas on the type of adhesive to use it needs to dry hard and lay up in a bead. Tried chalking on the first one but when it came to removing the old grid did not work to we'll to flexible.
    Thanks
    Craig Matheny
    Anaheim, Ca
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  2. #2
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    Glue? Doesn't it have the flat aluminum strips that screw in to hold it in place?



    Sammamish, WA

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  3. #3
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    This is the honey comb grid that suits in the table had to make a new grid

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig Matheny View Post
    This is the honey comb grid that suits in the table had to make a new grid
    Yes, that's what I meant. I replaced mine recently too, just unscrewed the strips on the ends and ruler at the top, remove the old, drop it in and put the screws back.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  5. #5
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    Joe on mine it is a lift out grid that is honey comb set inside an aluminum frame the 2 are glued togeather. I have them apart new honey comb just trying to use something other than chalking that will dry hard so to take apart down the road is easier

  6. #6
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    Craig,

    Have you tried one of the fairl viscous Cyanoacrylic glues? Thick superglues in other words? I am fond of Starbond personally. The advantage of it is that you can get it to release with a short application of heat? In wood turning we will often use it to fix a small carbide tip into certain types of hollowing tools. When you need to change the tip out you simply hit it with a fast blast from a small torch....like the type you use for Creme Brulee? <grin> That is enough to break the bond.

    Some dabs of a thick glue would likely hold it in place just fine.

    Dave
    900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.

  7. #7
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    Clear silicone sealer. Heat resistant, dries more or less permanent but can be removed. Next to duct tape its a handyman's friend.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  8. #8
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    Well guys I went with 5 min epoxy from locktite Bill the issue with the silicone is it is a bear to cut loose after the fact if you need to replace the grid a hard finish like epoxy will let me use my jobmax and it slides right under the edge of the frame that is why a hard finish is really optimal.
    Thanks again to all that helped.
    Craig Matheny
    Anaheim, Ca
    45 watt Epilog Laser, 60 watt Epilog Laser,
    Plasma Cutter, MiG Welder
    Rikon 70-100 Lathe
    Shop Smith V510, To many hand Tools and
    Universal Repair Kit (1- Hammer and 1- Roll of Duck Tape)

  9. #9
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    Do you even NEED to glue/caulk it in place? I don't know the frame design, but couldn't you just set the aluminum in the frame and be done with it? Who cares if it flops around after you pick it up, as long as it stays flat.
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

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  10. #10
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    For cleaning you need the frame cutting wood is a nasty business these grids need to be cleaned
    Craig Matheny
    Anaheim, Ca
    45 watt Epilog Laser, 60 watt Epilog Laser,
    Plasma Cutter, MiG Welder
    Rikon 70-100 Lathe
    Shop Smith V510, To many hand Tools and
    Universal Repair Kit (1- Hammer and 1- Roll of Duck Tape)

  11. #11
    Hmmm.... My mini has an aluminum honeycomb "slab" that isn't framed at all. You raise the left, right, and back rulers, lift the honeycomb out, clean it, lay it back in place, and lower the 3 rulers. The honeycomb is supported around the sides by the lips or ledges and across the middle by a removable partition (removable so you can engrave deeper items than can fit sitting on top of the table or honeycomb. When lifted out, the honeycomb is a bit wobbly or floppy, but it's well supported and sturdy enough once back in place.

  12. #12
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    Grid

    Here is the picture of the grid this is what Epilog has been using for years so I am not sure what you guys have about 2 years ago they switch from a 1/2" to a 1" thick framed grid.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Craig Matheny
    Anaheim, Ca
    45 watt Epilog Laser, 60 watt Epilog Laser,
    Plasma Cutter, MiG Welder
    Rikon 70-100 Lathe
    Shop Smith V510, To many hand Tools and
    Universal Repair Kit (1- Hammer and 1- Roll of Duck Tape)

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