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Thread: Finish On Live Edge Walnut Bench

  1. #1
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    Finish On Live Edge Walnut Bench

    I've just taken the clamps off a walnut live edge bench for my son and his family. I'd like your opinions on what would be the best finish to apply. Being that the bench is live edge, dyeing or staining is not an option as my DIL loves the color contrast between the sapwood and the heartwood. I'd really like the grain and dark color to show, but am also concerned about the color fading over time.

    I have capabilities to spray (HVLP), or can brush if necessary. I think this piece of walnut needs to have a satin finish.

    Any suggestions?
    Wood'N'Scout

  2. #2
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    Varnish. On walnut, varnish looks great. I HVLP waterborne on light-colored woods, but use varnish on walnut. My current scheme is to brush on a couple of coats, then sand to take out brush marks, then a couple of wiped-on coats. The brushed coats are thicker than the wiped-on, so they build faster, but the wiped-on doesn't have brush marks.

  3. #3
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    I agree with varnish. Brush strokes can be avoided. Two steps--use a good bristle brush with a chisel point. A 2" brush should cost $20 or more. Then be sure to thin the varnish properly. With the right thinning, brush marks should just level themselves away before the varnish sets. Yes labels say not to thin, but that is a lie put there by the manufacturer trying to avoid running afoul of VOC regulations. Just about every oil based varnish that's not formulated as a wiping varnish requires 5% to 10% added thinner.

  4. #4
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    I finished my own the same way I do most projects like this...BLO and shellac for color and then several sprayed coats of waterborne for "protection". But an oil based varnish (brushed) can accomplish a similar thing.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Well I decided to go with the BLO as a first coating......Wow does this make the color come out. This brings me to a couple of questions for Jim.

    1. How long before I can apply the shellac on top of the BLO?
    2. Should I have to knock down any dust nibs before using waterborne or after?
    3. How long should the shellac cure before using the waterborne (GF polyacrylic)?
    Wood'N'Scout

  6. #6
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    If you go WB, GF makes far better products than Polycrylic. High Performance Poly has better durability and a UV stabilizer package that will protect the underlying wood from fading. EnduroVar and Enduro Clear Poly are far more durable than either of the first two, though neither has the UV package. The HP Poly and Enduro Clear Poly are crystal clear and spray beautifully. This is what BLO + Sealcoat shellac + HP Poly looks like on walnut

    IMG_3690.JPG

    John

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    If you go WB, GF makes far better products than Polycrylic. High Performance Poly has better durability and a UV stabilizer package that will protect the underlying wood from fading. EnduroVar and Enduro Clear Poly are far more durable than either of the first two, though neither has the UV package. The HP Poly and Enduro Clear Poly are crystal clear and spray beautifully. This is what BLO + Sealcoat shellac + HP Poly looks like on walnut

    IMG_3690.JPG

    John
    Thanks for the examples and I have other GF products I could use. However, before I go any further how long do I need to wait to put on the shellac and then to put on the WB finish?
    Wood'N'Scout

  8. #8
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    If you just wiped on a thin coat of BLO, 24 hours is sufficient at 65+F. If you flooded it with BLO, let it sit there, and then wiped it off minutes later I would wait several days before applying the shellac. And make sure you use dewaxed shellac to avoid any bonding issues with the WB top coat. You can apply the WB topcoat almost as soon as the shellac dries. I usually wait a couple of hours however, just because.

    John

  9. #9
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    Thanks John. I just wiped on the BLO and the shop is heated to 67 degrees. I should be able to go tomorrow afternoon.
    Wood'N'Scout

  10. #10
    I tried Titebond 3 and it worked great.

  11. #11
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    I agree Steve. Your shop is a good temp. for applying the top coats, too.

    John

  12. #12
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    I have successfully applied a very light BLO coat, followed by shellac about an hour later followed by waterborne about an hour after that. Jeff Jewitt detailed this technique in an article awhile back so I decided to try it on a candle stand project at that time. My normal routine spreads things out over two days, however.

    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    I just came in from the shop after putting the final coat of GF High Performance on the bench. I will take pictures tomorrow after doing the final rubdown.
    Wood'N'Scout

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Kohn View Post
    I just came in from the shop after putting the final coat of GF High Performance on the bench. I will take pictures tomorrow after doing the final rubdown.
    Here's the bench. I'm quite please with the way the finish came out. Thanks for the help.

    Walnut Bench 2015-03-29.jpg
    Wood'N'Scout

  15. #15
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    Beautiful job, Steve.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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