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Thread: Making round mortises and tenons, chair legs

  1. #31
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    +1 on the grain direction in seats. Working a chair seat will definitely make one better at reading grain direction. The tapered curves in the seat can make figuring out which direction to work in quite difficult. Glued up seats, of course, can be just that much more complicated. I have tried several shaves and travishers. A small, sharp, shave comes in handy.

    Talk about issues trying to prevent tear out. Kinda tough to set a close chip breaker if the tool does not have one. I got to use one of Claire’s/Galbert shaves at a course Pete taught at Highland Woodworking. They are very nice. I think part of the challenge in designing a shave or travisher for this work is getting a gradual curve at the mouth of the tool, leading to the blade. A gradual curve allows one to take small or larger shavings which is very helpful. Pete use to have a video on YouTube about how he designed his Travisher that illustrated the principal with a very old larger shave.

    I have Elia’s shave. Mine takes a very small shaving and is not adjustable with the current mouth design. I have been procrastinating over sending it to Elia for adjustment or just doing it myself. Curtis Buchanan uses a coblers shave to get down into seats. I found one on that auction site that I am working on.

    Brian, could you provide a link to the Japanese plane you mention, please.

  2. #32
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    Mike, I called Suzuki Tool and Suzuki ordered it for me. I received it in three days.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #33
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    Back to them tenons..

    IIRC , the leg mortises were drilled "bell-shaped" in that they flared out inside the legs. A compressed tenon was then driven into the round mortise, and the end of the tenon then flared out, filling the mortise, and locking the leg joint in place. Tops of the legs were wedged from the top of the seat.

    ( from an OLD FWW article.....back in the late 80s...)

  4. #34
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    Mike, you can grind the curve on the mouth yourself. It is done at 6 degrees. See the other thread I started for a pictorial. I have also rehabbed a cobbler's shave - straighten the bevel, grind a hollow, and hone.

    Regads from Perth

    Derek

  5. #35
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    Thanks Brian & Derek,
    Now all I have to do is find the specific tools so I can adjust them. Slow moves are a PITA. Moving a home, business and 8-10 dogs requires prep work and tends to scatter tools, frustrating. I will try reworking what I have first. I am tryng to reduce instead of increase my tool collection, as I learn what works for me. Six degree slope to the mouth is a good thing to know Derek, thanks for ferreting that information out, likewise on the cobblers tool.

    I will look into the Japanese plane though Brian. There is a good deal to learn from tool designs. Especially regarding their applicability to specific work, personal preferances & skill sets. Is there any sort of picture or video of one of these planes in use Brian, maybe on your Bog?
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 12-16-2017 at 11:08 AM.

  6. #36
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    Bah! Dogs move on their own

    Mike, have a look on my blog I should have some detailed info on it in the Tea House chair series.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  7. #37
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    Ohh yea Brian, they “move” fine. We are training the Lancashire Hellers to herd the German Shepherds, then we may be able to move the whole pack.

    F1AB8988-956E-4432-A9DA-B68D28CA9D13.jpg

    Lancashire Heelers are good woodworkers too.

    I found the information on the plane thanks for the help finding it.
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 12-18-2017 at 9:26 AM.

  8. #38
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    Cute dog! Glad you found it helpful!
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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