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Thread: What is the best height for a router table?

  1. #1
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    What is the best height for a router table?

    I am building a router table and have looked around at several to get an idea of the best height ( I am 5'11" tall) . The Kreg table is 41", Woodsmith has a plan that has a height of 36" while Peachtree has one of 33".
    Any thoughts on what the best height would be?
    Thanks
    Dennis

  2. #2
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    I prefer the higher table as it allows me to more easily sight down the table/fence to align the router bit to the work piece with minimal bending over, plus it's a more convenient working height for me (also 5' 11") as I can keep a sharper eye on what's going on with the taller table. Just my personal preference. It's a good idea to wear your safety glasses & respirator.
    If you don't like the taller table you can always lower it.

  3. #3
    I would think you want it low enough to be able to comfortably exert some downward pressure, but no so low your bending too much.
    I am 6-1 and mine is 40" high.

    Dittos on the safety equipment, especially the glasses (how do I know that?)
    I would throw in ear protection because routers are quite loud.
    Respirator not really needed if you have a dust port, except for MDF that stuff is toxic.

  4. #4
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    I built mine to match the height of my table saw just so it could be used as support for large pieces.
    Do like you always do,,,,,get what you always get!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Pozzi View Post
    I built mine to match the height of my table saw just so it could be used as support for large pieces.
    Bingo. Most of my shop fixtures follow this rule. They are either extra support when needed or, at least low enough to stay out of the feed path.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #6
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    I'm 6' 3" and mine is set at 39". It's a comfortable height for me. 33" would be way to short. My table saws, and shaper, are set are 36", but if I could get them to 39" easily that's where they would be. (They are integrated together.)
    I don't really like the 36" height either, it's the same height as standard kitchen counter tops, and those are too low for me also.
    41" would work for me too.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  7. #7
    Ain't no best ht. for all takers.
    Study on the drill press?
    Use the variable ht. of the drill press table to determine the most comfortable.
    Then make a mock-up fence and test for ergonomics.

  8. #8
    I will add another vote for relating it to your table saw. My saw is at 38.5 inches. My router table is at 38.25. When I get my RAS and CMS on their bench, it will also be 38.25. When I get my workbench built, it will also be 38.25. I want things a little shorter than the table saw so I don't have to lift the wood up when using it for outfeed support. I am 6'2" with long arms. (I've moved recent and just got a shop garage again last fall so I am still getting it fixed up, working on putting up insulation then waferboard on the walls followed by drilling the wall for 3/4 conduit pieces to support lumber this weekend).

  9. #9
    I agree to making it the same height as the TS, although it is low for intricate projects, it is a good height to be able to put your weight into a piece if need be. Maybe you could make up an extra base to put it on for the smaller projects, or an adjustable base!?

  10. #10
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    Got two. One is 37 1/2" same as the TS, the other is 40 1/2". I am 6' or so, and almost always go to the taller one first. It is a lot easier on my creaky old back.

    BTW, don't forget to include the height of the wheels if you plan to mobilize them.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  11. #11
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    I had a RT in the wing of my TS years ago. I sold the setup and built a stand alone RT with storage. I had the same question you did and I ended up building my table at 41" (with casters). I'm 5'10' and that's at the bend of my elbow. Routing is much easier on your back, easier to set bit height, and easier to see the cut.





    Mike

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Pozzi View Post
    I built mine to match the height of my table saw just so it could be used as support for large pieces.
    Same here. My first router table was built into the wing of my table saw. When I built a stand-alone unit, I just kept it the same height because it was comfortable to work at. Ultimately, the height doesn't matter, it's what feels good to use that makes a difference.

  13. #13
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    Based on your very helpful comments I will go with a 41" table, easier on my back and if I find it too high I can lower it.
    Thanks
    Dennis

  14. #14
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    Another here (presuming no need to tie in with other surfaces) of the high table tendency. Mine is only 37in (basically because that's as high as the legs on the Incra cabinet frame go) and I'm 6ft 1in. My impression is that another couple of inches would be no problem, and i'd agree that it'd require a lot less bending to line stuff up - although so far i've done Ok with what I have too. The limit might be that there are times when it's convenient to be able to comfortably reach and/or hold stuff down on the back half of the table.

    I'd definitely not want to build a table so that it couldn't be lowered if needed though...

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Pozzi View Post
    I built mine to match the height of my table saw just so it could be used as support for large pieces.
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Bingo. Most of my shop fixtures follow this rule. They are either extra support when needed or, at least low enough to stay out of the feed path.
    Yup. I build a lot of my stuff to be the same height as my tablesaw. Built the cart that holds my chop saw so the chop table is at TS height. My parts carts are at TS height also.

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