Installing new Shower Arm (the pipe from the wall to the shower head)

[George Bokros]

How do you guys tighten them into the fitting in the wall? I tried wrapping masking tape on it and used a pipe wrench and tore through the tape and damaged the finish. I heard you could use a strap wrench but believe the diameter is to small to get a grip with the strap wrench. I asked the at Lowes and the plumbing guy (he is usually quite knowledgeable) said to stick a screwdriver in the end use it as leverage. I was going to do this but was a little hesitant. I did this once before and believe I used masking tape to protect the finish. My next idea is to try to use a piece of auto heater hose to see if it will get a grip and protect the finish on the pipe.

How have you done it?

Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

I put a good quality pipe sealant like Loctite 565 on the threads and crank it in by hand. Since this is not a high pressure joint, it doesn't have to be as tight as say a gas line would be. If you need a little more torque to get the last half turn so it is straight up and down, then use a pair of Channellocks right next to the wall and tighten it the final amount. The trim plate should cover any marks you make on the finish if you stay very close to the wall.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I do like Lee does. It's not a high pressure situation so being extra tight isn't necessary as long as you use a sealant.

[Brad Adams]

I was taught to use Teflon tape and pipe dope. Use the handle of your channel lock and stick it in the end of the shower arm and tighten away. Been doing it that way for twenty years now.

[Mike Cozad]

I like the sound of the channel locks method. Will have to try it. I worry about damage to the threads so I thread on a floor flange as a handle. Works like a champ with no accidental damage to the the finish.

[Clint Baxter]

[QUOTE=Brad Adams;2398093]I was taught to use Teflon tape and pipe dope. Use the handle of your channel lock and stick it in the end of the shower arm and tighten away. Been doing it that way for twenty years now.[/QUOTE

+1

Clint

[Mike Henderson]

I was taught to use Teflon tape and pipe dope. Use the handle of your channel lock and stick it in the end of the shower arm and tighten away. Been doing it that way for twenty years now.

+1, That's the way I do it, also. All the plumbers I've seen working do it this way.

Note that when you put in that pipe, you aren't tightening until it's tight - you're tightening until it's tight and oriented the right way.

Mike

[Rich Engelhardt]

Pipe dope on the threads - - really goop it on, then strap wrench.

Note that when you put in that pipe, you aren't tightening until it's tight - you're tightening until it's tight and oriented the right way

That (IMHO) is the most important part & why I use a small strap wrench.

[William Payer]

Like others have said, I find using teflon tape and tightening by hand is usually sufficient. The bend in the pipe allows a reasonable purchase on the pipe to turn. You could also use pliers with UHMW plastic lined jaws as can be found at Lee Valley. I originally bought a pair to work on assembling /dis-assembling pens without margin ghte finish, but they would be perfect for tightening plumbing without marring the finish.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,43456,43400

[Lee Schierer]

I was taught to use Teflon tape and pipe dope. Use the handle of your channel lock and stick it in the end of the shower arm and tighten away. Been doing it that way for twenty years now.

Back when I was working at a company that supplied machines with lots of piping, we had trouble on the assembly floor and in the field with newly shipped machines with leaks in the piping. The factory predominantly used teflon tape on all the pipe joints. I was tasked with eliminating the leaks. We averaged 3-4 leaks per machine which were costly to repair when I was first tasked. I ran a series of experiments first in our test lab and then on the factory floor with different pipe sealing materials including Teflon tape. Even in the lab, we experienced leaks every time we used Teflon tape. I won't bore you with all the data, but the conclusion was that Loctite 565 pipe sealant was the best sealant we could use. After imlemenation on the factor floor our statistics went to less than one leak per month with 50-60 machines being shipped each month. Teflon tape is a thread lubricant and may seal, but if you have to back off the joint even slightly for alignment, then it is likely to leak. The Loctite, takes several hours to cure internally and will seal even if you have to adjust the pipe for alignment.

[Robert Engel]

If the line is PVC and you crank it too tight and you'll break the female fitting in the wall.

Now how do I know that.........

Teflon tape and crank by hand.
Some of the female fittings will have a rubber washer in the bottom, too.

[Chris Padilla]

I've found the same issues as Lee when it comes to teflon tape. I no longer use it anymore and have switched to T-U Type 555 pipe joint compound. It has sealed where the teflon just wouldn't.

I've used both strap wrenches and the "insert a chunk of metal" for shower arms and other pretty pipes that you don't want to damage with an external wrench.

There are also internal pipe wrenches that can work.

[Larry Fox]

Funny the timing on this thread. I had to do this just last week. I had to get almost a full revolution on mine as one revolution less and it was way too loose (as in easily spun by hand) but the last 1/2 revolution was a bear to get. I keep a stock of old bike inner tubes around and for this job I wrapped one around the pipe a few revolutions and used a pipe wrench. Worked like a charm and didnt mar the pipe.

[Chris Padilla]

Nice on the bike tube, Larry! I'll have to remember that one. As an avid cyclist, I have plenty of tube around!

[George Bokros]

I am going to use a piece of auto heater hose that fits tight. I will split it and put in the arm and use channel locks or pipe wrench...