Of the Titebond wood glues, do you most prefer the red, blue or green?

[Cody Colston]

After all using the word "water-proof" might give someone the idea that they can use it to build a boat!

From the TBIII glue bottle: "Not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline."

I suppose it could be a problem for illiterates.

[Jim Dwight]

I usually get Titebond II. It is only slightly more expensive than Titebond I and I figure a little water resistance is a good thing. It the project may get rained on or something, I'll buy a quart of Titebond III.

[Jesse Busenitz]

I use TB I all the time.... never used anything else, but I may give III a try sometime.

[David Falkner]

TB I for instrument work because it doesn't have as much creep and is easier to take a joint apart if needed. TB III for cutting boards and where a longer open time is important. HHG if I want no creep at all.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I use TB III almost exclusively because of it's longer open time and its water-proof formula. Occassionally, I'll use TB Original for its fast tack. I really can't see the application for TB II anymore.

If I remember correctly, II dries white, so, the purpose is probably for someone who wants a white glue that has some water resistance.

[Chris Padilla]

DSC00983.jpg
Here are some color comparisons of glue that I did on a whim once. The above are FRESH.


DSC01035.jpg
Here they are dried. Sorry the color is off...probably poor light. That bottom one is Better Bonds Cold Press Veneer Adhesive in extra dark.

[Jim Becker]

I pretty much only use Titebond III.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I pretty much only use Titebond III.

^^^ Ditto ^^^

Color difference makes no difference if the joints are flush and tight.............can't find the glue joint unless you look at the wood grain.

[glenn bradley]

TBIII it is! Interesting take on this. I wondered about the III mainly because it is waterproof, so I was pondering if that would be a bad thing when it came to wiping excess glue off a joint prior to staining. I thought maybe it was harder to come off or something like that.

Not in my experience but, I don't use the wet rag method. I generally build with all those tips and tricks we see about avoiding squeeze-out. When I want squeeze-out (like on a cutting board) I let the glue skin over for about 30 minutes and then pare it off with a chisel.

[Jeff Duncan]

Well I have gallons of TB1, and III, as well as melamine and cold press. But definitely use TB1 the most. I don't do exterior work and TB1 won't fail on a good joint, so the only time it's worth paying double for glue is if I need a lot of extra open time

good luck,
JeffD

[Chris Padilla]

Color difference makes no difference if the joints are flush and tight.............can't find the glue joint unless you look at the wood grain.

I'll assume that comment is more or less aimed at me. While the color changes are interesting...maybe...I mostly did it as I wanted to see how hard the various glues dried. All the PVAs I could dig a thumbnail into but the poly, BB, and PRG dried very hard and I could not imprint them. Perhaps that is a tad more interesting?

[jack duren]

Use Titebond glue according to the specs. I'm not sure why one would use Titebond 2 except where it was needed or a tabletop. Titebond 3 only on exterior. If one wants extended opening time, use Extend.

[Rich Riddle]

Like many others, I use III most often but do have type I in the shop. You won't find type II around here though.

[Peter Quinn]

In my home shop its pretty much III for everything. I buy by the gallon, for the volume I do it doesn't make sense to have more than one type, and III handles everything including the low winter shop temp. Only time I don't like III is for stain grade work on light woods like hard maple...except cutting boards where I rather have the water resistance than worry about glue lines. I've found on light woods I can read the glue lines even with perfect joints and spectacular pressure, so for that its II or I. The last shop I worked in used I for most of the cabinetry and interior work, III for exterior work, passage doors, stair parts or anything that would face water. The shop I'm in now uses II for everything except exterior doors, there we use III. Certain things get polyurethane or epoxy as the foreman or mechanic on the job judges necessary.

When I'm building boats..............................wait a minute.......I don't build boats! Did Columbus have epoxy or resorcinol? Maybe he just had lots of buckets?

[Keith Hankins]

I don't have a 1 size fits all. It depends on the joint and application as to the type of glue I use. I never buy by the gallon as it would age. I get enough to do the project and make sure i knew when it was made. Biggest risk is old glue!