Some people put way too much time in fretting the small stuff. There is no need to get OCD over this. A shim only a few thousandths thick is all you'll need.
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Some people put way too much time in fretting the small stuff. There is no need to get OCD over this. A shim only a few thousandths thick is all you'll need.
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
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Are both extensions out or just one. Check from the outside edge of the extension to the far edge of the top on each side and see what extension is out more
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You may already know this but you need a precision straight edge and feeler gauge to do the kind of precision leveling you want to do. A home made straight edge or cabinet ruler may give unreliable results.
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I look on most machine tools as kits- assembled parts that reguire some tuning to achieve the standards I want. Martin being the exception, in my experience. You didn't buy a Martin so get out the shim stock or a file.
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The OP described it as a "dish" that is the worst closest to the blade. A "dish" to me is a curve.
Anyhow, when I bought my Delta years ago, I had one of those "dished" tops. I did not discover it until I was using a tenoning jig (also Delta). It gave me fits until I discovered what the problem was. I was new to woodworking and immediately figured it was something wrong with my technique.
Those were the good ol days. Delta sent me a new table top free. It was dead flat. The guy I talked to told me that actually my existing table was "in tolerance" but understood my plight.
BTW, over the years I learned not to flip the workpiece over to cut the other cheek as is shown by all the "experts". If all of your wood is perfectly the same thickness, that works. That is not reality. If the wood varies by as little as .005 that tenon goes from friction fit to slopping around in the mortise.
Last edited by Ted Reischl; 04-06-2015 at 11:17 AM.
I agree, the shims would be very thin and shouldn't let any significant amount of sawdust to collect. Even if sawdust does accumulate, how often are you going to need to remove the wings?Originally Posted by Joe Jensen
Aluminum soda cans make excellent shims. Once you get the right thickness you can easily file down any amount that sticks up above the table surface. If you use the aluminum duct sealing tape, you can trim of the excess with a razor blade.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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[OP]
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Thank you all for the input.
i feel much better that this is not a deal breaker.
It was clear to me while putting the saw together thT shims would solve the problem.
My thought process was that it would leave small gaps in the table top and i really would prefer that to not be the case.
My other thought was if the deveation would not affect my work i could easily not let ti go and not worry about it.
I have yet to actually run the saw as i need to replace the cord as it does not match my current 30amp outlet. Yes i only have one and my dryer plugs into it.
Again thanks for the pointers. I dont know why but i feel much better.
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So the table top was flat and so were the extensions and now that you have it assembled the top is cupped. Either the top is cupped and you didn't notice or, you warped it by tightening it all up. I would therefore tell you to back to square one and verify the top is flat. Then reassemble it and don't overtorque the screws out of sequence. You should approach the tightening by doing it similar to torqueing head bolts on a car motor or tightening lug nuts. Continually check it for flatness until its done. If the top warps, then you should notice that and be able to report on results for possible further assistance. Good luck
It is likely that the edges of the table or extensions are out of square with the tops bay just a fraction.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute
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I have cannibalized the leaves of a cheap set of feeler gauges to use as shims. Makes it easier for me to get the exact thickness I want. Just a suggestion.
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I know this thread is 2 weeks old, and that you have an ICS but I experienced the same situation on a new PCS that I have been assembling. I called Saw Stop and they were very helpful. The solution was to loosen the bolts that hold the wings to the main table then align the joint at the wing/table in the center area by pressing up or down then tighten the 2 bolts in the center area. Then do the same for the front and back of wing/table joint and tighten the bolts . Move your attention to the side of the wing that is high, press down on the front of the wing until its level with the main table, then tighten the one bolt that holds it to the front angle iron. Repeat on all four corners pressing down/up and tightening bolts to the front and back angle irons. The flatness is achieved by using the angle iron to hold the tables in place. I had to press down really hard, no shims, no banging or hammering with a mallet is required.
Had I continued to read the separate instruction book on installing the fence this is covered, but not in the saw assembly instruction book. John in post 15 must have read the book. With my limited ability I was able to get within .003 at the front and back of the tables. I am very happy with that and will soon be cutting 5/4 hard maple for twin beds.
Bill
Last edited by william watts; 04-19-2015 at 4:09 AM.
Bill
" You are a square peg in a square hole, and we need to twist you to make you fit. " My boss
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Wondering how you made out Patrick?
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
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