I'm building custom beams out of rough cedar for my kitchen ceiling and want to maintain a 3 3/4" thickness. 4x6 cedar is basically a true 4x6 so a bit too thick. Even so, given these beams are retrofit and will not be carried by anything substantial at the wall ends I feel they will be too heavy. Tripled up 2x6 will yield a 5" thick beam so I want to rip the two outer boards down to 1" each.
My first thought was to take the boards to a mill and have them done on a large saw in one pass. But then the DIY'er in me started thinking about how I might do this on my Unisaw. Of course the cut will require at least two passes but given that the cut side will not be visible on the finished beam I won't have to stress out about blade marks should the cut not be perfect. The real issue is a good in and out feed strategy including positioning my saw to allow the board room to stick out of my 20' wide shop before and after it enters the blade. That seems like a lot of time cobbling together sturdy and level support to prevent the board from binding in the blade.
Thoughts? Am I wacky or not?
Here is a detail and rationale of the beam for those who question the build up of 3 2x6's. Given I will be able to hide the joints with a detail I'm not worried about the joint becoming visible. As the picture below shows the beam will capture a smaller strip of lumber attached to the existing ceiling framing. The beams will run perpendicular to the joists so this smaller strip will attach to every joist with reliable fasteners. The beam will then be nailed through the side into the mounting strip. The design of the beam will allow me to: Save weight, incorporate a chase for wiring if needed, and allow fastening to the ceiling in more locations with smaller nails and thus easier to hide. Oh and for the curious as to why the 3 3/4 thickness…The room width is such that 3 3/4" beams will lay out perfectly within the room when spaced 16" apart.
Beam Detail.jpg