Thanks so much everyone! im going to check it out tomorrow.
Anyone know of a cheap rigging company in the toronto, canada area that i could call to get it moved?
Many thanks
Darin
[OP]
Member
Thanks so much everyone! im going to check it out tomorrow.
Anyone know of a cheap rigging company in the toronto, canada area that i could call to get it moved?
Many thanks
Darin
Contributor
A real rigging company is going to cost you about the same as the saw I think. I've heard that piano movers are a more economical choice.
Member
From Practical Machinist. Seems pretty do-able with either a large pickup or a single-axel trailer. As above, a millwright or rigging company will be pretty expensive.
TRANSPORT BANDSAW.jpg
Member
Darin
I have the CO700 (700 mm 27inch wheels) - 1980s machine - and it is a fabulous machine. And at that price you should run not walk to get a deposit down. Moving logistics are tough for sure ... it is taller than you think, especially when on a trailer. While the footprint isn't huge, it is surprisingly stable on the base (lower center of gravity than you might think). Blades are pricey but then last longer. Take your digital ammeter to check out the motor voltages and current draw. I went through an exercise pricing a replacement recently, and you can get a quality IEC replacement for less than $500. As others have said, run the machine and check bearings (do they get hot?), are the wheel tires in good shape (no idea where you'd get replacements and hope to not have to find out) and is the guide operating as expected. What else ... do they have the key for the door locks, does the tensioner work? Are L1, L2, T3 connected correctly? (Centauro labelled the wires virtually everywhere). As Peter mentioned, you can move pretty easily with a well rated single axel trailer, but it is pushing it. I moved mine up Route 95 (about ten miles) on a 3500# single axel trailer pulled by a Volvo and I was mindful that I didn't want to panic stop. Also, there are holes in the top to make lifting easy in case you have a chain fall hoist. Good luck!
Last edited by Bill Adamsen; 04-15-2015 at 1:26 PM. Reason: about the lifting
Contributor
For $700 I'd buy that saw in a heartbeat. Even if the motor and the bearings were bad it would still be a steal. And the motor and bearings probably aren't bad.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
Get yourself a lift gate truck and two strong friends.Originally Posted by Darin McConnell
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Member
Darin:
I have the parts list and operator's manual for that saw should you want it. PM me an address to e-mail. Doing a quick compare, it appears identical to today's SP800 Minimax ... weight, height, cutting height, etc. Likely the current SP800P (MM32) manual would work just fine.
The CO800 weights 630 kg (about 1400 lbs)
Maximum cutting height of 500mm (19.7 inches)
Machine height 2495mm (98 inches)
Solid cast iron wheels
5.5hp (4kw) 3-phase motor
A caution ... the inertia required to start the machine is pretty significant. I've attached an ammeter and turned it on, and the results are mind boggling (and mine has the same motor but much less inertia)! Has anyone out there run one of these successfully on a VFD?
Last edited by Bill Adamsen; 04-15-2015 at 3:10 PM.
Contributor
FYI: That won't fit on a lift gate. A low trailer would be my choice. Best of luck with it.
Erik
Ex-SCM and Felder rep
Member
Not a machine of this size but I have VFD on a much smaller (24") saw. I have documented it here in a thread...
Member
The CO is the heavy duty model in the Centauro bandsaw range, so it's probably the right saw for mixed general and resaw work. Erik may be able to advise, but you might if required even get a narrow blade on it using the specialised Carter stabiliser or the DIY block guide arrangement his colleague Sam has previously published.
There's some around here. The spec can be fairly basic - no bottom guide (just provision to fit a block of wood or an aftermarket guide), no miter slot in the table, slightly rough and ready finish but built like a tank. The dust collection can be limited (small bore connection) - but it's easily upgraded.
I nearly bought a well used CO 600 24in a few years ago before getting a shot at a much newer Agazzani for similar money. Is it 3 phase? I have about 10 photos from various angles of it on file, pm an e-mail address if they would help - the 600 while smaller is probably generically very similar. The 'lay on it's spine in a small trailer' method of transportation definitely works if you can organise some help.
Last edited by ian maybury; 04-15-2015 at 3:35 PM.
Member
When I moved mine ... I had a large substantially built and through bolted pallet (see photo above) I brought to the purchase site along with two friends. We bolted the unit to the pallet before moving onto the trailer. The photo you've shown does not seem to have a pallet. Bandsaws of this height (8 foot +) are fundamentally difficult to secure to a trailer or inside a box truck. An 8 foot + saw on a two foot high trailer can be a challenge to fit under many overhead doors. Hard to tell from the photo, but when you actually see the machine in person you'll get a new and real sense of the size.
[OP]
Member
Thank you Bill,
Thats a beautiful looking shop you have. be a pleasure to work in such an environment!
just wondering what i would be checking with the ammeter? and i dont have one
would this be what i would need?
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-electronics/m...ationFlag=true
Thanks!
Darin
Contributor
Back when we shipped our bandsaws standing vertically, we had a fair number of freight claims. Once we started shipping them laying down on their spines, I can't remember the last time I had a customer report major damage to a bandsaw. If it all possible, I woould lie it down to transport it. It sounds like lots of work to get it horizontal but once you do, it's 10X easier to actually move it anywhere.
Just my 2-cents.
Erik
Ex-SCM and Felder rep
Contributor
Sitting here, reading the specs Bill posted, I looked up at our 102" living room ceiling. Wow. Just wow.
earl
Member
Darin:
What you're looking for is a well running motor. To some extent, you can tell by turning it on, running it for as long a time possible, and putting it under load for an extended period. Does the motor get hot, smell, slow down under load? If it passes all those tests, you are probably fine. As someone else mentioned, even if you had to replace the motor you would still be ahead of the game.
The ammeter is looking to see if the amps drawn is equal to or less than the rated FLA. The amps drawn should also be relatively equal on each loaded leg. The easy way on that machine to test is to take the cover off the magnetic switch, identify the load wires and put the clamp-type ammeter on each load in turn. On my machine the loads were marked with white tape indicating L1, L2, L3. The motor on that machine I believe has an FLA of 16.2, and with that same motor my machine draws about 35% less than the FLA. One leg on mine has a "weak" current reading ... about 30% lower than the others. If the machine was on street 3-phase, one would definitely be concerned and want to test that motor (it's running on an RPC) . The two motor repair shops I've contacted tell me the motor is likely bad. But the machine runs fine. To test it I would need to remove the motor and that's not only a lot of work, but would put the machine out of service. I haven't removed and tested it yet. I have bought machines only to find out later their motors were not in good shape, and it is annoying to say the least. The clamp ammeter simply gives you another way to test before buying. Perhaps reach out each out to your friends to see if one has a clamp type ammeter you could borrow.
I did have another thought about this saw you're considering. While it might seem like a good deal, it is also likely more saw than you probably need. Machines this large pose some challenges moving, repositioning and repairing (everything weighs so much) and even finding a place to put it, and having the power to run it (I know you mentioned you have that licked). Normal spaces with eight foot ceilings don't work because the machine is more than eight feet tall! When you figure the costs of rigging and other unexpected costs, it might be prudent to consider one of the "sub 24 inch" high-performance machines such as the Minimax. I really like their MM16, and I've seen those on the market for a price that probably doesn't exceed the cost of actually getting that Centauro into your shop! There are loads of threads here with user's personal experience using a vast variety of machines. It might be worth exploring alternatives. Just because it appears to be a good deal, doesn't mean it will end up being a good deal for you. I have let machines go when I realized they simply were not the right fit for me.
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