First attempt at all-M&T joinery

[Prashun Patel]

You are correct on all counts.

A center slide isn't intended to bear the weight of the drawer; the side runners do that, so you are correct. I agree that the 'box' really means two 'C' shaped brackets on either side of the drawer (a doubler, kicker, and runner on each side)

[scott vroom]

Assuming you want to maintain a 1/16 gap around all 4 sides of the recessed drawer front, how do you achieve that on the drawer front bottom. Do you mount the bottom runners 1/16 vertically proud of the lower apron (in my design a 3/4" square apron)? Or do you mount the integrated drawer front 1/16 up from the drawer sides? I'm trying to understand how you achieve this gap when gravity is working against you. Another thought is adding 1/16 veneers to the drawer side bottoms? Sorry for being anal, just trying to avoid unpleasant gotchas later.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Do you mount the bottom runners 1/16 vertically proud of the lower apron (in my design a 3/4" square apron)?

Occam's Razor wins again.

And then, I use Mr LA Block Plane on the front inch or so to put a shallow "slope" in the runner, so it dives just below the apron. If I ever take the drawer all the way out, I don't want to hit a ledge on the way back in.

[scott vroom]

Kent, so you're saying you DO mount the runners a bit proud of the lower apron so that when the drawer is closed there is a gap between the drawer front bottom and the top face of the apron?

Bonus points for making the connection between my question and Occam's Razor.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Kent, so you're saying you DO mount the runners a bit proud of the lower apron so that when the drawer is closed there is a gap between the drawer front bottom and the top face of the apron?

Bonus points for making the connection between my question and Occam's Razor.

Yes. Sorry. Somewhat obscure answer - made sense to me as I typed it, but not so much in retrospect.

Occam's Razor [oversimplifying] - the simplest solution to a problem is usually the correct one, so......... Mount the runners proud of the rail. You nailed it on your first swing.

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks Kent. Good description, and after staring at the plans for the last 30 minutes I believe that is the same approach used by the designer.

Scott, I make the rnners and kickers "L" shaped.

Not required probably, however it's how I do it.

The runners are a bit higher than the opening to yield a consistent gap around the drawer front..........Rod.

[Prashun Patel]

While it's not optimal, I tend to mill my drawers a shade snugger to the gap I want. You can always joint off a smidge from the drawer bottom to fix imperfections on any side. This allows you to fit the box to the opening perfectly and evenly on all sides regardless of very minor imperfections in measurements or consistency of the opening.

[John TenEyck]

Scott, Bill Hylton's book or others might prove very helpful: http://www.amazon.com/Illustrated-Ca...t+making+books

John

[scott vroom]

While it's not optimal, I tend to mill my drawers a shade snugger to the gap I want. You can always joint off a smidge from the drawer bottom to fix imperfections on any side. This allows you to fit the box to the opening perfectly and evenly on all sides regardless of very minor imperfections in measurements or consistency of the opening.

That makes sense. Prashun, what I was asking for is your method of creating the gap between the drawer front bottom and the top face of the lower apron. Unless the runners are set higher than the lower apron the integral drawer front will sit directly on the apron with no gap. Kent and Rod both set the runners slightly higher, do you also use this method or do you take another approach.

[Prashun Patel]

I mount the runners a little higher, but I err on the lower side of that, and then do my final trimming off the bottom of the drawer front. The reason is that I just find it hard to mount the two runners on each side exactly coplanar, which they must be in order to get that lower front gap even. This is just my cheat to avoid having to worry too much about the mounting of the runners. I bet there are better methods.

I am really partial to this method because I have a decent router table set up that allows me to joint smidges off with very good accuracy. When I say 'trim' I'm really making a rabbet on the front lip. So the drawer sides end up proud of (lower than) the bottom of the front's bottom.

I don't think you'll have the same embarrassing problems I had; you're more thorough, plan well, and seem to execute very well - even the first time. But here's why I do this:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ers&highlight=

[Kent A Bathurst]

[QUOTE=Prashun Patel;2405574 I bet there are better methods.[/QUOTE]

No - there are different methods - none is inherently better, IMO.


One tip to file away in the memory banks:

Whenever you travel, "forget" to turn in the key cards at the hotel. And - no - that is not out of bounds for the hotels............in fact, if you get low, you can ask at the front desk if you can have any old ones no longer in use, and they will look at you weird and handl you a stack out of the new box. Or, have you parent's favorite son - the older brother who is a commercial pilot - send you an envelope full every month.

That system, across all brands that I have tried, uses card stock that is consistently 0.030 - thirty thou. Or, roughly 1/32".

You can use 'em stock size, or cut 'em with scissors / carton knife to fit to size, etc..

With respect to this topic - stack two slices [~ 1/16"], set them on top of the front apron, and use a straight edge and spring clip clamp to hold it all in line as you set the final height of the runner.

I use these cards as shims to position inset doors, etc. The old saw used to be "use dimes" - and I used to have a jar full. Spent those on beer, and use 3 stacked key cards instead.

[scott vroom]

Great discussion. It's the subtle little stuff that trips me up, I really appreciate you guys sharing the tips.

[Chris Friesen]

Hi Scott, I would advise against using 8/4 for the legs, you will not be happy with the grain pattern.

Might be able to make it work if you can find stock with the growth rings at 45 degrees or so...get nice straight grain down the legs with similar patterns on all sides.

[scott vroom]

Might be able to make it work if you can find stock with the growth rings at 45 degrees or so...get nice straight grain down the legs with similar patterns on all sides.

That would be the sweet spot for rift sawn, correct?

[scott vroom]

Hey all,

I had to focus on other projects this past week (dad-daughter refinishing...fun!), but am now back to the nightstands. I decided on integrated drawers with 1/2" maple on 3 sides and 3/4" oak on the front, all blind dovetails. I got lucky on the first drawer fitting very nicely on first attempt (in the pic the runners aren't in yet...I'm supporting the drawer with my right hand). I've built the runners/kickers and plan to attach the runners with o'sized screw holes to allow for final fit tweaking. I don't have a good small plane yet so hopefully my idea will work out. How much should I plan on spending on a quality small plane suitable for fine tuning drawers etc? Brand/model recommendations?