First attempt at all-M&T joinery

[scott vroom]

This is a follow up to a separate thread on alternative methods of M&T cutting. The pics below are right after removing the clamps.

For my first all-M&T project, 2 matching nightstands, I decided to use my old PC690 router with the plunge base and edge guide, and a Whiteside 3/8" spiral upcut bit. 14 blind tenon and 2 thru tenons on each piece.

I squared up the rounded corners on the thru's with a bench chisel. Kinda difficult to clean up those tiny corners....next time I'll stop the router further from the end, leaving enough wood to allow better control. My son suggested clamping boards at the corners such that the chisel is prevented from cutting outside the lines....I'll try that next time. The mortises are OK but there's definitely room for improvement.

[scott vroom]

I applied painter's tape to all joints....worked great, zero glue cleanup. For the 1-13/16 legs I face glued 3 boards and applied 1/8" veneer to hide the visible edges (project was inspired by my desire to use up QSWO from various cabinet jobs).

[scott vroom]

I used plans purchased from David Marks website. Well drawn except for one dimensional error that he confirmed.

I'm not sure I like his drawer design and that's what I'm stuck on now. He designed an all maple drawer box with a slightly wider/taller applied oak front. The maple drawer glides/runners stop the applied front. Seems to me it would be a whole lot easier to dove tail the oak front into the box assembly, and place stops at the rear of the runners....i.e. get rid of the applied front. Here's a pic showing the stand without any drawer elements. I'm looking for opinions on the best way to do the drawers.....focusing on applied front vs incorporated front.

[Peter Quinn]

Looks great Scott. I'd skip the applied front and go with an integral front, half blind dovetails, not sure why he's going applied there? Classic piece of furniture. Maybe trying to simplify fitting the drawer for the home audience?

[scott vroom]

Looks great Scott. I'd skip the applied front and go with an integral front, half blind dovetails, not sure why he's going applied there? Classic piece of furniture. Maybe trying to simplify fitting the drawer for the home audience?

Thanks Peter. It just seemed silly to assemble an entire piece of furniture without any mechanical fasteners, and then attach an applied drawer front with screws

I'm wondering if fitting the recessed drawer would actually be easier with an integrated front?

[John TenEyck]

Scott, that looks nice. You might want to change your glue-up sequence next time though. All those clamps give me a headache just thinking about how you did that and managed to get it done before the glue set up. I glue up the sides first as flat assemblies, whenever possible, and then connect the sides. Makes things pretty simple and calm. I think Peters got it right on the drawer, too, an integral front with HB DT's would be my choice as well. One hint I learned from a FWW article a couple of years ago. Fit the drawer front to the opening before building the drawer, then build the drawer. Final fitting is stupid simple if you do it that way.

John

[scott vroom]

John, great tip on fitting the drawer front before building the box....makes complete sense.

I used titebond 2 extended so had plenty of time to do a big-bang glue up. But as you mentioned, fitting all of those intersecting clamps was a chore. I shot pin nails into the apron tenons from the inside (out of view)...it really helped with alignment. My next project will be a dresser and I've already decided to glue up sub-assemblies, leaving a simpler final glue up.

[Prashun Patel]

A applied front would be easier if you find through dovetails easier than half blinds. I prefer the integral box too. With your craftsmanship, i would go for the integral. Nice work.

[Rick Johnston]

Scott, would you post a picture of veneer showing the edge of the veneer and not just the face. Curious how the veneer glue line looks. Tks

[scott vroom]

Scott, would you post a picture of veneer showing the edge of the veneer and not just the face. Curious how the veneer glue line looks. Tks

Rick, I shot these with late afternoon sun coming through the window....kinda weird coloring. This is a representative sampling of veneer glue lines. The glue line itself is virtually invisible, the "line" is from contrasting woods. In some cases the veneer edge blends perfectly with the face, in others it's more obvious. Again, I built this projects with scrap wood so limited ability to grain match. I oriented the legs so the best veneer sides facing front and at least one side. When I commit to another A&C style project (dresser) I'll probably purchase 8/4 for legs and not mess with the veneers.

[Rick Johnston]

Scott the veneer looks very good. When you call it veneer I assume this is stock you planed down to 1/8" ?

[scott vroom]

Scott the veneer looks very good. When you call it veneer I assume this is stock you planed down to 1/8" ?

Rick, that is correct. I started with surfaced 3/4" boards. ripped them in half on edge, leaving 2 ~1/4" boards. Ran them through the planner to get to 1/8". Face glued to the leg and clamped with scrap boards on either side to apply high psi pressure evenly, using pipe clamps alternating top-bottom. Trimmed the excess veneer with a utility knife (second most versatile tool in the world next to duct tape). Cleaned up with a flush trim bit. Poor man's 8/4

[Mike Schuch]

Nice job Scott. The mortises might not be absolutely perfect but the minor flaws make them look like real mortises cut by a craftsman instead of something cut by a cnc machine. When looking at vintage furniture the mortises are never perfect... perfect only came into being when machines took over for craftsmen.

[Rod Sheridan]

Looks great Scott. I'd skip the applied front and go with an integral front, half blind dovetails, not sure why he's going applied there? Classic piece of furniture. Maybe trying to simplify fitting the drawer for the home audience?

Agreed............Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

. When I commit to another A&C style project (dresser) I'll probably purchase 8/4 for legs and not mess with the veneers.

Hi Scott, I would advise against using 8/4 for the legs, you will not be happy with the grain pattern.

I either use a lock mitre joint on the legs, or the veneer method you used, however once I've glued the 1/8" veneer on the legs I joint and plane the legs to completed dimension so that the veneer is less than 1/16". It really hides the edge.

Your cabinet looks good, keep refining your technique, and definitely no applied drawer fronts in A&C furniture, hand cut half blind dovetails are much nicer.

If you don't mind some constructive criticism, in my opinion the through tenons are too long, and the bevel needs to be much blunter..........Regards, Rod.