Walnut Slab Coffee Table - Tung Oil? Shellac? - Newb Finisher

[Patrick Irish]

I scored this 53"x22" piece of black walnut. I've planned and sanded the other side to 150 I think. It's perfect and amazing grain pattern. I thought the surface in the picture was going to be the top BUT then I noticed the crack and the 2 patches of chainsaw marks. I DONT want to plane anymore as it would require I take it down 1/4" more. Since this will be the bottom I plan to 50 grit belt sand lightly to remove the saw marks then 80-150 orbital.

So, onto finishing. What's the easiest and best protection for a coffee table? I have a bunch of water and oil varathan poly. I've read a few coats of tung oil then shellac is a good plan for grain pop and protection.

What about that crack? Should I do the clear epoxy fill job? I bought some but have yet to use it.

[Prashun Patel]

I like to finish walnut slabs for tables by sanding to 600 grit, then applying an oil/varnish blend. My current favorite is Waterlox and Boiled Linseed Oil, but to each his own.

You can stop at 150 as the rest of the world will (except Mike Pekovitch) tell you, and you'll be fine, but I challenge you to try to sand to 600 and then finish. Sanding this high burnishes and almost seals the wood. It makes the first coats of varnish or varnish/oil blend go on very evenly. It does not have an adverse effect on an oil based finish's grain popping ability. It makes it easy to achieve a thin, grain-popping finish.

The other benefit of sanding to 600 (as Mike P says in this week's Shoptalk Live) is that it generates white sanding swarf that highlights any imperfections before you finish.

Shellac IMHO won't offer much protection and is easily marred. It's also tricky to apply on large surfaces. A water-based finish may not have the color and depth that an oil-based finish does; I do not believe it will highlight your curl as well as an oilbased finish.

[Patrick Irish]

I've been looking up Waterlox and other tung oil poly blends. Didnt realize how long it may take to finish depending on the product I choose.

[Steve Schoene]

Waterlox Original (Satin, Sealer/Finish, and Gloss) do not include polyurethane. If you choose Waterlox you can finish up in perhaps 4 days. A initial coat of pure Tung Oil is not needed nor recommended. The first coat of the oil based varnish will pop the grain virually the same as the oil.

[Michael Sapper]

Prashun, with reference to your Waterlox /BLO blend, what is your mix ratio?

[Prashun Patel]

You don't need much . Maybe 10 pct. just enough to keep it from getting to sticky to buff off. If this is your first time I suggest you use the Waterlox original sealer finish straight as a wiping varnish without diluting.

anither good choice is arm r seal. It's easier to find than Waterlox, smells less, but is a little lighter. It is a poly but if not built up thick, I find it looks as good as the non poly varnishes I have used.