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Thread: Handle for 1/4" Detail Gouge?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Central NJ
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    Handle for 1/4" Detail Gouge?

    Recently picked up a Thompson 1/4" detail gouge and I'm planning to make a handle for it. Doug sells handles at 7" and 12" but making my own I can do whatever, so I'm looking for suggestions on handle length. What do you find works well?

    Doug

  2. #2
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    Jan 2007
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    Ottawa, ON Canada
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    10" +/- for me. A gouge that small does not need anything too long. It's a pretty individual thing.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Upstate SC
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    79
    I have a 12" handle on mine, and for me it is plenty long enough.

  4. #4
    Mine's 12" too. I like the heft of a longer handle within reason.

  5. #5
    IMO, spindle gouges do not require a handle longer than 8". That length allows a good feel for the cutting edge, and if you are putting more pressure than you feel an 8" handle will permit, you are using too much pressure. Again, just my opinion. I have longer handles on spindle gouges from when I first started turning, and now find the shorter ones are much easier to control. I like Doug's tools, but I like D-Way handles better than Doug's because of the feel of the handle - particularly in the winter. That said, making one's handles is satisfying.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    I'm with John here. Spindle gouges are usuallty held single handed - no need for a long handle. I tend to grip near the ferule and lay one finger along the gouge. Helps to keep the motion proper and thats the way I was taught when I took a course from Alan Leland.

    I also like spindle gouge handles to be thinner. I make my own aluminum handles and bowl gouges get 1" OD tube with a 1-3/8"OD vinyl tubing over that. Most spindle gouges get 3/4" aluminum rod with 1"OD vinyl tubing over it. They are solid and the weight feels good in my hand. My newest ones are 7 to 7-1/2" long, while my first used a tube and a Hosuluk (sp?) adapter. Its end heavy because of the steel adapter, but I can reverse the gouge when I carry it with me. It is 8" long including a turned wooden plug in the end of the tube.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Wetter Washington
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    My 1/4 inch is about 8, the 3/8 is about 10. Longer is not always better for detail/spindle work. Both handles started as 1-1/4 (Ash for one, Bubaluna for the other)
    I'm a wood turner, not a metal worker, my handles are wood.
    Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that is more by accident then design.

  8. #8
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    Mar 2013
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    Central NJ
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    OK, so somewhere between 7-12 inches. Great! :-D

    I appreciate everyone's input. I tend to make things large but for this I think I may try something on the smaller side. Heck, they are only $25 so it's easy to throw one in the cart next time if I hate it. Hopefully this weekend I will get some time to turn.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    Doug is quite generous on the length of his tools - because of this I find the smaller gouges too long for optimum control. I want just a few inches of the 1/4" gouge extending from the handle, enough to clear the rest. To solve this I put the tool in a metal collet (held with set screws) with much of the shaft sunk into a deep hole drilled in the handle. I have metal-working equipment so I make my own collets from steel but they are available from a number of sources. (The advantage of making them myself is I can make the outside diameter smaller so it fits better in my hand, more appropriate for the diameter of the tool.) Using a collet allows a consistent length of tool to extend from the handle even as the length of the tool decreases with sharpening. The collet also lets me remove the tool from the handle to make sharpening easier. In the attached photo the smallest collet is about 5/8" diameter. The commercially available collets I've seen are about 1".

    One more advantage of a collet is I generally make one handle and sharpen two or three identical gouges so I can quickly change one as it gets dull without having to stop to sharpen. This removes the excuse to keep using a dulling tool "just a little bit longer" to finish what I'm working on!

    For small spindle gouges I like to turn a handle about 8" or so (usually from dogwood or cherry), shaped so I can easily grip it with one hand. (I acutally often use tools for both roughing and detail work on small spindles without handles - this works well, especially for the larger diameter tools.)

    BTW, I think the Thompson skew chisels are also too long but that is more difficult to adjust! I generally just cut some length off the end of the skew.

    Doug's tools are the best and the steel is incredible! I like to make small negative-rake scrapers from his round rods - especially good for end grain on boxes, bases, etc. I use these without handles. The round rod makes it easier to angle the scraper without raising one side off the tool rest as is necessary with a flat scraper. I've even been known to grind his detail gouges into scrapers but don't tell anyone...

    JKJ
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by John K Jordan; 04-15-2015 at 9:27 PM. Reason: Add pic

  10. #10
    Mostly I find a piece of wood I want for a handle, and make the handle that length. With a 1/4 inch gouge, you won't be hanging out more than an inch off the tool rest anyway, so no need for long.

    robo hippy

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    I like wood period. I find the metal rings traditionally used at the head of the wood to be unnecessary and unhandy. I turn my handles of very strong and heavy woods such as bubinga, osage, tropical hardwoods and have handles up to 5/8" gouges. They are epoxyed in 2-3" depending on the diameter. I leave the dia. of the wood fairly large toward the end which is rounded. No strength problems here but I don't advise using junk wood either. Lengths are on the long side for balance.

  12. #12
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    I found another picture which better shows using a collet with a small Thompson spindle gouge. I epoxy the collet into the handle.

    image.jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Fredericksburg, TX
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    I have a 1/4" Thompson bowl gouge in his 7" handle and it works well. I use in on my midi lathe for small bowls and also on my Powermatic 3520B to get the undercut rim on bowls to avoid having a long handle hanging off the back of the lathe since I only work from side of bed. I bought it at SWAT 2013 and he engraved the handle at the show.

  14. #14
    i like the wood handles.....I have one 7 inch long & one12 inch long both of dogwood....and one 17 inch long of cherry....the 17 has the big size collect and the 7 and 12 have the middle size collect......some days I like the 7 inch and some time I like the 12.......I tend to grip the closer to the tool sometimes.......I like thicker handles than what is with the prehandled tools.....and like to take the tool out of the handle to sharpen which is a great plus to sharpen

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I found another picture which better shows using a collet with a small Thompson spindle gouge. I epoxy the collet into the handle.

    image.jpg
    I am not sure that I would classify that as a collet. It is pretty much the same as the Hosuluk adapter mentioned earlier.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

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