"Aging Cherry"

[Bill McNiel]

I've been commissioned to produce a built-in out of Cherry. It will be located adjacent to 18 year old Cherry paneling (think really aged). I've checked out a bunch of previous posts regarding aging Cherry and am going the UV/Sun approach.

My question is...Why apply BLO before exposing the wood verses after?

Any info on this approach is greatly appreciated. Mahalo-Bill

[Todd Burch]

Who said to do it one way versus the other?

I apply BLO first, since I don't want to wait 20 years to let cherry turn dark on its own. BLO will aid and quicken the darkening.

Todd

[Leo Graywacz]

I got a years worth of aging in about 4 hours of full sunlight. A couple of days in full sunlight should do it.

[Bill McNiel]

Thanks Todd. Will Waterlox have the same effect?

[glenn bradley]

Check you material frequently when sun-tanning. In sunny SoCal I lost a couple pieces due to checking when I got distracted in the shop and let too much time go by. Just set a timer for 30 minute intervals or whatever is appropriate for your climate. An hour was apparently too long between trips to the shade on 4/4 stock around here. Other than that the process was successful. As stated, within a year the effort was moot.

[Prashun Patel]

First, I wouldn't set the expectation that the old and new will be matched quickly. I'd aim for compatibility.

I've had cherry that darkens to dark rust after a year, I've had some that mellows to a golden after 5 years. The nature of your individual piece of wood will trump any tricks you play regarding pre-tanning or BLO.

Putting BLO onto the wood will alter the way light hits and penetrates the wood. The question is whether it intensifies the UV penetration or stymies it. People will argue it both ways.

For my part, I prefer to tan the RAW wood, then color it (BLO or otherwise). The reason is that BLO does not like to sit still. In heat and light, it likes to come up in little beads, which dry quickly in the presence of that heat. So, the times I've pre-applied BLO, I have ended up with nagging spots that need to be wiped off with mineral spirits. This happens even on cherry which I did not think would drink and spit oil as badly as open pored woods.

If you are really after a match, then IMHO, the best way is to dye the piece to match. However, remember that's on Day 1. Also remember that the biggest delta comes in the days after fresh milling, so I'd suntan all your pieces (incl the test pieces, which you'd need plenty of) after sanding but before dyeing.

[scott vroom]

I've used potassium dichromate on both sapele and white oak with excellent results. The PD oxidizes the tannin and give the wood a rich aged look instantly. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=27343

[Robert Engel]

I got a years worth of aging in about 4 hours of full sunlight. A couple of days in full sunlight should do it.

How did you keep the wood from warping?

[Leo Graywacz]

I built the project first. In my case it was an end panel for a kitchen. Shaker style. So it was a bit easier to tan this since it was mostly 2 dimensional. But if it's a cabinet you'll have to be more mindful of the distinct 3D-ness of the project and rotate it to keep the suntan even on all 3, 4, 5 sides.

[Howard Acheson]

Thanks Todd. Will Waterlox have the same effect?

Waterlox Original contains additives that make it fairly resistant to UV. If you plan the "sun tan" the wood, do not apply Waterlox.

I have always avoided applying any finish prior to "sun tanning". If I want a pre-view of the progress of coloring, I wipe the wood with mineral spirits or alcohol. That will temporally color the wood .

[Bill McNiel]

Mahalo for all the input. We are currently experiencing a rare occurance for this time of year here in the NorthWest, SUNSHINE! Consequently, I have the pieces out for their second day of tanning and yes they are "naked".

Prashun-I had the same spotting on a test piece with BLO that you discribed. Also, I really don't like to stain Cherry or most other woods if I can avoid it. I prefer to try and choose material that will meet color requirements without pigments. Doesn't always work but is worth the effort IMHO. In this case I'm not trying to match the existing Cherry, just get somewhat closer to the look.

Scott-I had seen the article you so kindly attached and was somewhat put-off by the results on Cherry. Just seemed too dark and kinda muddy.

I greatly appreciate you folks taking the time to share you expertise. Again - Mahalo.