Bow Saw - Build or Buy?

[Jim Davis]

That is a logical explanation for the origin of the current use of the American term "bow saw." But since the 1940s, in America, the term bow saw has been almost universally used to refer to a metal-tube framed firewood cutting saw.

This has universally been called a bow saw:
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Here's another: http://www.lowes.com/pd_20268-44384-...ductId=4363243

Before these saw frames were invented, NOTHING was regularly called a bow saw in America, and turning saws had gone out of favor by the time Henry Disston opened for business in 1940.
As for the dictionary definition, it fits either configuration.

It seems,from several sources, that "bow saw" is the older term for turning saws, the first such saws having been made from wood bent to hold a tensioned blade (very like a bow). When more sophisticated mechanisms were developed to hold a blade in tension, they began to be named according to their purpose, such as a "chair maker's saw," "veneer saw" and so on.

frame saw types.jpg

So, I guess my only concern is that the more definitions there are for a given term the less clear its meaning in use.

On this forum, most readers will know that the term "bow saw" means a wood-framed narrow-bladed saw. Anywhere else, the 20% of the population who know a tool from a ghoul would think of the steel-tube framed saw.

I have made much ado about very little. Keep the blades sharp! (I'll keep thinking and saying turning saw. Hope you'll all know what I mean

[Chris Friesen]

I don't think it's wrong to call a turning saw a bow saw. As a counterexample to Peter Welsh, http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/glossary_bow_saw.htm shows an excerpt from Holtzapffel's 1846 book, where he cross-references both the continental frame saw and the turning saw as bow saws. The same site also references Moxon's "Mechanick Exercises" which contains on page 102, "The Use of the Hand-Saw marked D, the Frame or Bow-Saw...." while refering to a saw tightened by twisted cord.

If we start with the general category of frame saws, then you could divide that into ones where the blade is tensioned by the frame, and where the blade is tensioned by a cord/rod/thong on the back side.

A traditional buck saw is a large version of one where the blade is tensioned by a cord/rod/thong, and a turning saw is a small version.

A modern swede saw is a large version of a saw with the blade tensioned by the frame, and smaller versions would include the hacksaw, coping saw, and fretsaw.

[Mike Holbrook]

I have read many articles over the last 40+ years about bow saws or bowsaws. Sometimes people call large similar saws frame saws as Chris mentions above. Certainly similar tools are called different things and modified versions become 'the norm" in various locations. Hand saws as made by Disston and many other companies here in the US and produced in very large quantities for many years also have practically disappeared in the form they were once made in, all the original manufacturers gone. It seems hand tool woodworkers are by the nature of the tools we use ensconced in this world of vague and changing terms and spellings. When I type the word saw into the American Heritage (on-line) dictionary the definition includes some 6 pictures of different hand saw types.

I thought the OP was asking about the type of bowsaw sold by Highland Woodworking, WoodJoy, Tools For Making Wood and quite a few custom makers? The advantage of this saw type for many users is in it's adaptability not it's limitations. Turbo-Cut blades are available in rip, cross cut, universal and jigging/turning sizes. The Turbo-Cut jigging/turning blade is larger than the coping saw blades Tools for Working Wood uses in the saws they sell but make more gradual curves well. The ability to easily change the blade in one of these framed saws allows one frame to be used to make many different types of cuts in wood. The blade can be turned in the frame or removed and reattached to the frame with it in a hole drilled in wood as well. Interest from hand tool woodworkers in making/restoring their own hand tools seems to be driving interest in framed saws that can use a range of blades and be made with any type: frame fittings, handles, tensioning system, adjusting devices... the builder may find comfortable or beneficial.

[Jim Davis]

Mike, I think you have the picture well described. Great Neck Tools does, however, still actually make traditional handsaws. They aren't as good as the pre-1950s Disstons, but they are still made.

[Michael Ray Smith]

They're a lot of fun to make. If you buy it, you'll miss out. I've made three, now, I think -- two using the Gramercy hardware and blades and more or less their design. Another with a wide blade -- can't recall where I got it.

The old ones used leather? Huh. Didn't know that. I use hemp twine, and I thought that was being authentic. I take about 6-8 turns with the twine and wax it with beeswax. Tell you the truth, I wouldn't use either leather or paracord (especially 550) because both are too strong. It's easy to take one turn too many with the Spanish windlass, and I want the twine to break before the saw does.

It's also a good idea to make a toggle that can take a half-turn, like this one. Take a half turn with it, then slide it so the other end locks against the stretcher. George said this design is like something called a niddy noddy that's used to wind skeins of yarn. He also mentioned a song, "Niddy noddy, niddy noddy. Two heads, one body." He told me that I'd never be able to use the saw again without thinking of that song. He was right, as he is about most things.

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[Michael Ray Smith]

Oh, yeah, one more thing, at the risk of starting another debate . . . there are two schools of thought about turning saws, bow saws, coping saws, fret saws, pretty much anything with a tensioned blade. One school says the saw should cut on the pull stroke, like Japanese saws. The other school thinks it should cut on the push stroke, like European saws. I'm firmly in the "pull" camp, but reasonable people may differ. (They'll be wrong, but they may differ. )

[Robert Engel]

Michael - thanks for answering my question!!

Have some left over Hickory think I'll save it for that project.

[Michael Ray Smith]

Hickory is perfect. Post some pics when you're done.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Frame saw or bow saw, what’s the difference?

Here is Paul Sellers take on that.

[Jim Matthews]

I watched a couple years ago when the first attempts to make this were trotted out.
The fine teeth produce an amazing finish.

The example linked is polished by comparison.
Can't argue with the results shown.

[Johan Gustavsson]

Not that I know what he is saying but this Chinese bow saw doesn't look too hard to make. https://youtu.be/Mcxxypa4BQA

[Bradley Hedges]

I made a small (coping blade sized) turning/bow saw last summer, using some oak I split from a piece of firewood. I used some 1/4 inch bolt hardware to mount the blade & handles, and artificial sinew from my muzzleloading/buckskinning days (a long time ago) to tension the blade. I would second the recommendation to use the sliding niddy-noddy device to allow for finer adjustment in the blade tension.

One point I would share is that you must be very careful in aligning the holes in the arms so the blade mounting hardware is pretty close to perfectly aligned. Starting with 4-square stock will help a lot with that. Here is a broad picture with several other tools I've built in the past several months. I'm sorry I can't find any better pictures and/or detail shots, but I'm feeling too lazy to walk out to the shop right now :-) I can take more later today, if you'd like.

BradHand Tools 001.jpg

[paul cottingham]

I made a bow saw with the Gramercy kit. I didn't put a pile of gorgeous curves on it, it's very utilitarian, but it is a great tool for the money.

[Archie England]

Does my experience count if I watched a friend make two for us both?

We bought the essential parts from TFWW but used our own wood and cord. Chris made the work look easy; but he's more talented than I. My thin blade saw works very well. We used Yew, I think.