Joining boards with dowels

[Bill Huber]

HI Bill. You may have set this out before, but what are the basic reasons for preferring the Paralign over the Dowelmax system? I haven't studied them closely, do they both have the same capability?

The main thing is with the Jessem you do not have to use shim or spacers to set it up for different thickness of boards, just move the reference plate back and lock it down. On the DowelMax you have to use spacers to do this and it is kind of a pain to unscrew the thing put in the spacer and the put it all back together again.

When changing for end to face it is much easier to do with the Jessem to me. Unscrew 2 allen screws reposition and put the screws back in. On the DowelMax it is about the same but you have to unscrew the knobs and when you do that the screws come loose and it is just not as fast and easy.

With the DowelMax you can tighten it down to much and it will open a little, you can't over tighten the Jessem.

The other thing is the DowelMax is so small that you can not add anything to it like stops or flat work adapters. I don't think I ever posted it but I have an adapter for setting angles, it just screws on the side of the Jessem. With the DowellMax there is just no room to do things like that.

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[Kent A Bathurst]

I really hope to help others but always reminded I have so much to learn it may be a while before I become a resource

Just keep posting, brudda. The learning comes from the discussions, and every problem you have solved is one more round in your chamber to throw down in the future.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I don't think I ever posted it but I have an adapter for setting angles, it just screws on the side of the Jessem.

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Why am I not surprised?

Bill - you are the major source of "why didn't I think of that?" head slaps with very, very clever answers to problems and opportunities.

[Brian Henderson]

Are you looking to join them side-by-side, or end-to-end? If side-by-side, you probably don't need dowels.

If end-to-end, think carefully about the application. Two boards joined with a couple of dowels is not going to be very strong.

Mike

Depends on how long the dowels are, of course. If you have 6" hardwood dowels joining two boards, with glue along the entire length, it's probably going to be pretty strong.

[ian maybury]

Thanks Bill, you've got me thinking. (again) I have a biscuit jointer and a Domino which is just starting to get some use, but living a long way from suppliers try to have options available off the shelf - it avoids the frustration of waiting/being tempted to run with something sub optimal. So easy though to end up with stuff on the shelf not being used….

There's structural pros and cons for the various joint types in different situations, but the rock solid reliability of positioning given by the 'clamp on then drill' nature of dowelling jigs is attractive. I guess it's not by accident that you see people building jigs to help locate/stabilise the Domino cutter when cutting joints.

The trouble with all these things is that the pros and cons become obvious in the context of a job, but are harder to figure without user experience. Some observations drawn from the websites for what they are worth:

The Paralign is nice and solid, and as you say positioning with the detent system looks convenient. They don't seem to offer a metric version. It does two dowel sizes. (1/4 and 3/8in) Looking at the video i'm not sure how it maintains alignment between parallel rows of holes in a large joint - presumably it's a case of aligning the side of the body with the work/to a mark.

The newer/smaller Jessem jig is quite a lot lighter in construction, is also imperial, and seems fairly clearly to be about cost reduction - although it offers seven instead of five drill bushings/hole positions holes, and drills three dowel sizes. (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2in)

The Dowelmax has more parts and as you say is pretty compact/short of room to ad stuff. Might it be a shade more versatile in some other respects? As well as imperial there's a metric version doing three dowel sizes. (6, 8 and 10mm) The cost adds up when you add in the accessories!

[Edward Oleen]

It looks to me sort of like a book case, or trinket case, with three drawers. If that is 3/4 stock, then dowels should be no problem. I'd put the top literally on the top, instead of between the sides, but that's just my opinion.

I don't see that you need a complicated or expensive store-bought doweling jig for this project. On youtube there is a video of a guy making and using a shop-made jig for drilling the holes. It is essentially a scrap of wood with holes drilled in it. You use it from one side to drill one set of holes - let's say the shelf ends, and from the other side to drill the holes in the sides of the case.

Here's the URL for one made by a Brit: seems easy to make and to use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=iT1v9DkGbI0

Here's another that I found: from Canada, this time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKQS...yer_detailpage

And this is the simplest and clearest description I've found so far: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6qU...yer_detailpage

Have fun. Let us know how you made out.

[Tom Giles]

I'm old school I guess. I always use dowels when I'm looking for something to align my pieces. I have a biscuit jointer that is 15 (?) years old that I have never used. Dowels are just too easy. I use a pencil a steel rule and the horizontal boring feature on my Shopsmith. Other that turning horizontal boring is what I use the SS for the most.

If I'm looking for more strength I'll choose a different joint.

[Jim Matthews]

If I'm looking for more strength I'll choose a different joint.

That's an important distinction to make clear, for those starting out.
Butt joints with dowels are the first to fail in machine made furniture.

It's rare that the dowels are made of anything more than cheap
offcuts, boards that were discarded for poor quality or very lightweight species.

While a doweled joint can be well made, it is NOT the most durable
for shelves - the most common place dowels are used by beginning woodworkers.

Personally, I think the drawbore variant of the dowel is underutilized,
but it involves a degree of planning, skill and experience that the makers of the
dowel jigs don't presume a first time user will have.

I have recently begun experimenting with the Miller dowel system
which is pricey, but very effective (for the correct joints) -
I think largely because the dowels themselves are well made.

[ian maybury]

Pardon more philosophy, but i'd agree that as ever the choice of jointing method is down to specifics. Without mentioning names there was a mag article about recently which purported to measure the strength of various jointing systems - and of course it found that the system produced by the (background) sponsor of the piece was the strongest. It even quoted comparative force numbers.

Trouble was that a quick look at the test pieces showed that the layout whether accidentally or otherwise suited the top performer - multiple elements ended up doing the same job as only two in the case of the next best.

It's just a random example, but glued joints are a good case in point. Glues don't work at at all well on joints that are loaded in what's known as 'peel'. That's where you glue two pieces of thin and flexible material (e.g. 1/16in sheet metal) face to face over some significant distance, and then proceed to separate them by forcing a wedge (e.g. a chisel) in from one end along the line of the joint, and then continue by pulling the pieces apart. It'll fail almost immediately - basically because the entire load gets concentrated into the line of the joint at the point where it's just starting to peel apart. Keep on pulling the pieces apart and the joint will continue to unzip - because as it fails the load is moved on to the next intact point in the joint.

If on the other hand the two piece of metal were pieces of thick sheet glued edge to edge the joint would do much better. Because the pieces are stiff enough that they don't flex - so the load is simultaneously applied to the full length of the joint. There is no peeling effect.

The point is that the strength of any given jointing system is hugely down to the overall design of the joint - the joining system, the nature and dimensions of the pieces to be joined, and the mode of loading. What's good in one situation can be very poor in another, and vice versa. There's inevitably no universally 'always best' joining system, and no point talking in terms of 'this is better than this' - but there usually is a system (or maybe a few) that's best (or at least good enough to do the job) in a given situation. It comes down to having enough feeling for the situation to visualise how the joint is being loaded, to lay it out accordingly - with selection of a suitable joining system being another variable in the mix.....

[Mike Schuch]

Best, quickest way to drill dowel holes is a horizontal boring machine:
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I picked this one up for $100 and spent another $30 on new bearings.

On rare occasions the horizontal boring machine just isn't the right tool for the job so I use my $10 Craftsman doweling jig:
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It has never let me down!

I gave up on my biscuit cutter a long time ago, it has never aligned boards for glue ups as well as dowels. With the horizontal boring machine I think dowels are even quicker than biscuits!

[Mike Schuch]

The other thing is the DowelMax is so small that you can not add anything to it like stops or flat work adapters. I don't think I ever posted it but I have an adapter for setting angles, it just screws on the side of the Jessem. With the DowellMax there is just no room to do things like that.

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Very cool feature... but why/when do you need angled dowel holes?

[Chris Padilla]

Windsor chair, perhaps?

[Myk Rian]

I used 30 biscuits to build this scroll saw stand. Very strong.

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Dados were used for this tool chest.

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I used dowels to build this plant stand. Very strong.
So, use whatever suits ya.

[ken masoumi]

I used 30 biscuits to build this scroll saw stand. Very strong.

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Well done Mr Rian, a well-suited stand design for that old scroll saw.