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Thread: Priming for Latex Paint

  1. #1

    Priming for Latex Paint

    Help - I removed a wall and had some sheetrock work done to finish the cut out area. I ended up with about 12" - 18" wide strip of new sheetrock. I primed this area and painted it with a Sherwin Williams interior latex with a satin finish. I got a perfect match to the existing with the color but the sheen wasn't correct. SW has 40% off this weekend so I went and got the same color in a flat sheen which will match the existing.

    I jokingly said, well I won't have to prime and the clerk corrected me - she said that when going from a higher sheen latex to a lower sheen latex you must prime first. I have never heard of priming between coats of latex even if the sheens are different.

    Help - do I need to prime?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Columbus, OH
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    3,064
    I rolled an egg shell (SW) over top an unknown brand semi-gloss last year with no primer. Worked just fine.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Lafayette, IN
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    Ignore the clerk. There's high turnover and not a lot of training in those positions. Managers tend to be more knowledgeable, but even then, they aren't tech support, and generally haven't been career painting contractors.

    There's rarely a good reason to prime before doing interior painting, and this is a case where it's definitely overkill.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
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    when going from a higher sheen latex to a lower sheen latex you must prime first
    Possibly - - a glossy finish should be either primed with something like Glidden Gripper or scuff sanded to provide some "tooth" for the finish coat to adhere to.

    However - - having said that....
    The 100% acrylic formulations in use today have an amazing amount of "holding power" compared to the products available 15 years ago or more.

    Personally, I'd just scuff sand the old finish using 220 grit paper or a sanding sponge just to play it safe.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    The Hartland of Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    I rolled an egg shell (SW) over top an unknown brand semi-gloss last year with no primer. Worked just fine.
    We did the same in 3 rooms. No problems.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Virginia and Kentucky
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    3,364
    I do prime when going from a higher sheen to a lower sheen but that's old school to say the least. Probably a throw-back to the days when paints had very different inherent qualities. I use original Kilz when priming.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Eastern KS
    Posts
    406
    The clerk is wrong, while it may be a "best practice", like the others have said, it is wholisticaly unnecessary. It would help to lightly hit the wall with a screen before painting, but even if you paint directly over the existing, it will be fine.

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