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Thread: Cold bluing followed by baked flax seed oil finish for Gramercy saw vise. WORKS!!!

  1. #1
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    Cold bluing followed by baked flax seed oil finish for Gramercy saw vise. WORKS!!!

    The finish worked beautifully and came out nice dark black with a semi-gloss finish. First a disclaimer: This was an experiment and I am not an expert, but here is how I did it. Proceed at your own risk.

    Materials needed:

    2 oz. bottle Brownell's "Formula 44/40 instant gun blue
    Degreasing agent- I used a citrus degreaser
    Lacquer thinner or acetone- either will work. I used lacquer thinner.
    Distilled water- about 4 gallons.
    Flax Seed Oil- only a small bottle needed.
    Gloves
    Cotton balls
    Stove that can hit 500 degrees F. (Most can)
    Paintbrush
    Paper towels or rags
    Lots of patience
    Grease (for reassembly)

    To start:
    The parts must be thoroughly cleaned. The vise comes covered in protective oil and is greased at the joints. All this has to come off. DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS PART!!! Clean thoroughly. First I took the thing apart. This requires a 4mm allen wrench and two appropriately sized wrenches. Sorry- can't remember what size the bolts were. The thing comes apart quite easily. Next, I sprayed them with a citrus cleaner to cut the grease, and then cleaned thoroughly with soapy water. DO NOT use tap water- it will cause rust even in a few minutes, especially if you have iron pipes in your town. Use distilled water. Next, use lacquer thinner or acetone to clean the parts again, and then wash them again with soapy distilled water. They must be thoroughly cleaned. Now IMMEDIATELY take them to the oven and back at greater than 200F to dry them.

    Take the parts out and when they get to about 100 degrees, or about the temperature of a nice hot bath, apply the cold bluing solution with cotton balls. The metal blues much better when warmed. Apply evenly- it's going to immediately go black. Make sure you get in the cracks and crevices.


    _1040701.jpg_1040702.jpg_1040707.jpg_1040714.jpg

    The bluing solution leaves a matte finish. It won't look perfect, but get it as even as you can. If an area doesn't want to take the blue, rub it in a bit harder and usually it will take. Sometimes if there is a bit of risidual grease it won't take and rubbing harder seems to get it to work. Remember what I said about thoroughly cleaning first? :-)

    Now you want to turn the oven on at 500 degrees F, and let it warm up while you apply the flax seed oil. I used a chip brush to brush it on thoroughly, and then wiped it off with a paper towel, leaving only a thin coat of oil. I cannot stress this enough- only the thinnest coat of residual oil is needed. If you put more then it gets splotchy. Just as much oil as is left after wiping is all you need. You are going to bake this for 1 hour at 500F. Let it cool down, which for me only took about 15 minutes, and then do the oil and bake process 4 more times minimum- a total of five times oiling and baking. I had some areas that got a bit splotchy, so I sanded them with 800 grit paper the first baking, and the second time I tried 0000 steel wool. The sandpaper worked better. The finish is very hard and barely comes off with sanding. Sand very lightly, and only do this if you got a lot of runs in your finish and if you care. If you don't care about runs, dont sand.

    So the finish came out beautiful. I had one spot that flaked off where there was a big drip, and I had to reblue that spot and rebake, but the thing looks amazing. It comes out a very nice black with a semi-gloss finish. I held it next to a chair that I had painted black with Rustoleum black enamel, and the color was the same. There is a hint of brown when you take it out in the sun, but it's pretty much dark black.

    _1040737.jpg _1040739.jpg_1040745.jpg_1040744.jpg

    Reassembly was as easy as disassembly, except the bolt that goes through to hold the front of the vise would not fit through the hole and I had to take 220 grit and sand the finish off to get it through. I recommend not oiling that bolt, or maybe only doing one coat. It is a very tight fit. I did not have proper grease so I greased the hadle with petroleum jelly for now. It works smooth as butter. The oiled finis actually fights friction. I did use some blue thread locker when putting the handle back on because the nut wanted to back out. Oh, and by the way, it appears nuts with nylon inserts do not survive 500 F. It appears the nlyon on mine melted. I just reused with the thread locker rather than going to the store to get another nut.

    So there ya go- a very beautiful black finish that should last a very long time and prevent rust!!!

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    Oh by the way, this is the most awesome saw vise ever. It is made from 1/4" steel. One quarter inch steel, folks- that's more than my 4 ton car jack is made of. Also it glides open and closed, and the lever throw is long enough to easily and gracefully clamp your fancy saws or your old rust buckets alike, gently caressing them or putting them in a headlock- your choice. I wish I had bought this long ago. Now that I have used it, what before seemed a bit pricey now seems like a bargain.

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    Malcolm,
    I had been on the fence about this vice; it does seem overpriced. However, reading your glowing endorsement changed my thinking quickly.
    Thank you for sharing - very helpful!

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    This requires a 4mm allen wrench
    In the world of inches that is a 5/32" allen wrench.

    Now you want to turn the oven on at 500 degrees F, and let it warm up while you apply the flax seed oil. I used a chip brush to brush it on thoroughly, and then wiped it off with a paper towel, leaving only a thin coat of oil. I cannot stress this enough- only the thinnest coat of residual oil is needed. If you put more then it gets splotchy. Just as much oil as is left after wiping is all you need. You are going to bake this for 1 hour at 500F. Let it cool down, which for me only took about 15 minutes, and then do the oil and bake process 4 more times minimum- a total of five times oiling and baking.
    This is the same procedure for "seasoning" cast iron frying pans. (without the blueing of course.)

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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    Ta Malcolm, very good to know about a coating process which potentially has lots of uses. It looks very nice - understated, low key and functional. Sounds like the tool is one of those good quality items that gives a nice warn feeling when you use it...

    You probably know, but cold bluing doesn't add much except the colour - i can remember a farmer friend getting a shotgun done by some guy and not being very pleased about it's irregularity (careless application?) and lack of corrosion resistance. You've obviously done it right and got a nice regular coating on. A quick dig just now suggests that the flax seed (linseed) oil polymerises to a hard material - and judging by the feedback from the cooks and yourself it delivers a nice satin coating that penetrates a bit in cast iron but doesn't build up on the surface, and is very durable. Much as on wood in the case of e.g. a bench..

    Whole (not ground) flax seeds (and not the oil) are very good for the gut too - a tablespoon or two every morning. The oil has a lining effect, it's one of the healthy Omega types that we all tend to be a bit short of, and it helps to keep things moving. Taking too much too quickly could mean an hour in the small room...
    Last edited by ian maybury; 04-22-2015 at 7:20 AM.

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    Randy, happy to have corrupted you.

    Jim, you can ask my wife about my iron skillet that I got probably 15 years ago. I caught her SOAKING it in the sink!!!! Aargh. I scrape it immediately after use, then warm it up on the stove and oil it after each use. It's a ritual.

    Ian, I am glad you brought it up- I failed to mention that cold bluing is a coloring agent only and has no corrosion protection. (Hot bluing does, but it is caustic and requires a difficult process.) The baked oil finish works better for iron but does a fine job on steel. It does not get as dark on steel, hence the bluing to give it a uniform color- plus I wanted black and not brown. One could do just the oiled finish without bluing and get a brown finish.

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    Just a note in case some do not know, Flax seed oil is the food grade form of linseed oil. Linseed oil and boiled linseed oil may contain other constituents including metallic drying agents.

    Flax seed oil is in my kitchen, linseed oil and boiled linseed oil stay in my shop.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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    So now we know what to do if one needs to go on a diet and be forced to drink lots of water.
    "If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"

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    That came out great! Excellent write up also. Nice job. I doubt my wife would let me put a saw vise in our kitchen oven though. Even if was only some natural oil on steel.
    Happy and Safe Turning, Don


    Woodturners make the world go ROUND!

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    I doubt my wife would let me put a saw vise in our kitchen oven though. Even if was only some natural oil on steel.
    How about if you snuck them in while you were restoring some old cast iron frying pans.

    Just be carful if she starts calling the cast iron frying pans "hubby clubs."

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
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    Looks good, good to know about bluing and then seasoning. I seasoned my bench hardware for corrosion protection and really like the warm brown finish.

    Would like to see one of the saw vises in person, they sound impressive.

    C
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  12. #12
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    Ta Jim, hadn't thought of the possibility of somebody taking linseed oil from the shop...

  13. #13
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    Food grade linseed oil dries best if you CAREFULLY,and OUT OF DOORS heat it on an ELECTRIC hot plate(no open flames!),slowly until it simmers. This causes the oil to polymerize.

    It is not fit to eat after you do this,I THINK.

    I got into using food grade linseed oil years ago when I was doing a lot of experimenting with varnish making. It is SO much clearer when you look down into a pan of it than hardware grade linseed.Makes for a prettier varnish. When I got it to simmering,it would also go from a pale yellow color to a rich gold.

  14. #14
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    I've used the baked oil seasoning method to get a nice black finish on some iron hinges from Lee Valley for my tool chest. Though I used mineral oil and a tiger torch for the process to make it fast and because I didn't need my hinges to be 'food grade'...

  15. #15
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    Off topic, but the term 'linseed' is by the way used for both the edible and the other form in this part of the world - but of course there's product sold for dietary/supplemental use.

    Its often in raw/food grade form very good for inflamatory conditions like gout, rheumatism, tendonitis, the previously mentioned especially immune related gut trouble; tendencies to heart and cardiovascular issues and also for dry skin and hair. It seems its oil (with a certain amount of animal fat too) may be one of those we tend not to much get in modern diets that we need.

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