Sharpening Question

[George Farra]

Hi all

So far I have been using carbide tools, but I picked up a 1" roughing gouge to speed blank preparation up. It does a way better job in half the time than its carbide counterparts. I like it so much that I will start migrating to HSS tools.

Well the gouge has dulled and needs sharpening as I noticed its starting to grab. My sharpening set up is a WS3000 and a Tormek multi-jig. The jig included set up instructions for a roughing gouge at 40 degrees, which I believe is correct.

I am accustomed to sharpening carving gouges to a mirror polish on both inside and outside of gouge, which creates a very keen edge, but also a fragile edge.

To what level should I sharpen a HSS roughing gouge? Like a carving gouge, do I need to worry about the inside of the tool?

TIA

George

[Joe Bradshaw]

George, you will need to touch the edge more often than you think. I start with a fresh edge on my gouge and I will touch itup several times while turning. I use a slow speed grinder and the Wolverine system. I also use the CBN wheels. It takes longer for the grinder getup to speed than it doe to freshen up an edge. Sa far as polishing the edge, why brother. While turning a piece of wood, very many feet of wood will go pass your tool edge. So, if you are sharpening often, you will lose the polished edge. You should get with your local turning club and get you a mentor. Turners by nature, love to show their tools and shops and talk about them. Posting your location would help. Good luck as you start your descent into the vortex.
Joe

[Thom Sturgill]

I am going to disagree slightly with Joe. The sharper you start, the longer you stay sharp. I also hone at the lathe to extend the time between trips to the grinder, but not so much since I got a 350 grit CBN wheel. The burr created by the grinder is fragile and cuts like a serrated knife. I prefer to remove it and lightly hone the flute. I DO NOT polish like my carving chisels though. The 200 or 350 grit off my grinder is sufficient for everything but my skews.

[George Farra]

Thanks guys. Sounds like 120 & 400 grit paper on a WS3000 is all I need to do. Since its a roughing gouge I don't know if I am going to worry about the wire edge. As I buy more gouges and look for a better final finish I can experiment and see what works better for me.

Wow....1 step sharpening is so foreign considering the great lengths we go to for irons, chisels, and carving tools!

[Reed Gray]

Well, one question I have is what is your 'roughing' gouge. There are larger bowl gouges, though I don't think any are 1 inch. Just too much of a beast to handle, even for me. The other is a 'spindle roughing gouge' with the 'spindle' part being an added name to specify that they are intended for roughing out spindles, and not for roughing out bowls. They can be used for that if your tool technique is excellent, but other tools are far better and more efficient. The SRG is generally on a small tang, and won't hold up to the abuses of bowl turning.

As for how sharp, that is one thing we seem to agree to disagree on. From those who want 60 grit because a more serrated edge cuts better, to those who want much finer because a less serrated edge has less teeth to dull. For sure, you don't need the polish that you want for a hand plane or your carving chisels. That fine of an edge will dull quickly because of the miles of shavings you can remove in a very short time is way more than you can take off with a hand plane. I have the CBN wheels, which come in 80, and 180 grit, though there are now wheels in the 320 or 400 grit range, but not really sure about how fine they are. Most of the time the inside of the flutes don't need honing, unless you buy really cheap ones and the mill work is pretty bad. I keep switching back and forth between sharpening on my rough wheel and my fine wheel, and can't see much difference. I don't hone, and for finish cuts, always start with a fresh edge.

I have a number of clips up on You Tube if you type in robo hippy. Mostly bowl turning and a couple on sharpening.

robo hippy

[George Farra]

Reed,

Sorry....yes it is a spindle roughing gouge that I have been using the rough out tool handles and bottle stoppers. I haven't gotten to bowls yet But, I will definitely check out your youtube page!

Thanks

George

[robert baccus]

George, you might try something. The 40 deg bevel is great for rounding small dia ? pieces. Try shaping the gouge like a bnottom feeder. 70deg to 75 deg. It will take off more wood from a sidegrain piece and most bowls (outside only) especially green wood than you can believe. Bonus--it simply will not catch because of the big bevel rubbing. It actually makes a great finishing cut as well.