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Thread: I need help with a 3phase motor starter that can be controlled remotely.

  1. #1
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    I need help with a 3phase motor starter that can be controlled remotely.

    on my cnc router I have been using fein type 220v motors as my vac system. well they go out in about a year or so and I finally invested in a regenerative blower that will be about the same performance. I wanted to keep the noise and heat down so I did to want a huge one. so it has a 4.5hp motor sucking 12.5 amps. well that was the start only 900.00 but really I needed a larger box because it dod not have enough slots so I could not get another 3 phase circuit. so there is 185.00 and hopefully not too much to get my landlord to switch it out for the smaller one. then 114 for a metal muffler 100.00 for a starter for it. and 40.00 or so for wire to hook it up.
    but I want to use the 3 way switches I use on my 220v setup. I just use a 120v contact with the switches to turn the vac on and off from each end of my cnc table.
    what I am looking for is a 3 phase starter with a 120v contacter to control it. I could find some high end ones or cheap ones directly from china but thats about it. I know I can buy the separate parts fairly cheaply but no clue how to hook it all up. I need 3 phase 220v 15 amps with a 120v contactor How to get this? a fellow made me a 220v one for my dc that works great. but no wa yI could do it myself.
    Steve knight
    cnc routing

  2. #2
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    A starter is generally a contactor (relay) with heaters to provide overload protection. Do you need overload protection?

    I have picked up many starters and contactors on ebay for very cheap! Three phase starters and contactors are particularly cheap... I guess most people don't know that 3 phase contactors and starters work great for single phase motors and you can just ignore one leg on the contactor / starter.

    Here is the general circuit diagram for remote start/stop motor control:
    wiring-diagram-of-three-phase-motor.gif
    Last edited by Mike Schuch; 04-25-2015 at 12:46 AM.

  3. #3
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    good to have full protection it is a 900.00 pump. but I am not good at wiring. I swaths guy though it does not have any protection http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-Coil...item35e64fdd4a
    I have found the whole assembly but they are 250.00 or more I want sure if I could set it up. I really wish I had the money to pay someone to do everything but this has eaten all my money. at least the contactors I can setup I use them in my dc with 3 way stitches and my smaller vac setup.
    Steve knight
    cnc routing

  4. #4
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    That one looks like it should work even though it is rated at 4hp instead of the 4.5hp you say your motor is. In the picture there is 3 wires going between the bottom of the unit and the 2 buttons on the top of the unit. If you wanted to remote locate the start / stop buttons you can just extend those 3 wires to many feet. (I just use a 14 gauge 12 foot extension cord I cut the ends off of for cheap control wires).

    I am not an expert but I believe you want a size 0 (or NEMA size 0) contactor which I believe is rated for a 5hp motor. I would rather have the contactor be rated for a little more current than needed rather than a little less. When you run more current through a contactor than it is rated for you run the risk of electro-welding the contacts together.

    P.S. I was admonished for posting links to ebay auctions previously. I think the ghost of saw mill creek will swoop in and edit out your ebay link.

    In the past I have always bought the contactor, contactor enclosure, buttons and button enclosure separately and assembled them myself which usually saves a bunch of money. That was a good deal on the ebay auction you posted but I would still prefer a size 0 contactor.

    PICT8059.jpg

    This is the phase converter I built to run my 3 phase machines. It is just a bit more complex than a starter (not being facetious, it isn't that complex). For the remote start and stop buttons I just used a metal junction box and a blank metal cover plate I drilled for the buttons both of which I got at home depot.
    Last edited by Mike Schuch; 04-25-2015 at 1:39 AM.

  5. #5
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    Looks like Mike has you pretty well fixed up. The following page shows how to wire multiple start stop stations to one motor starter.
    http://www.industrial-electronics.co...h-Buttons.html

    I bought one of these for my unisaw to upgrade it to a Nema motor starter. It came with a direct acting switch so I needed an updated start stop control.

    http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Button-I...HZ6ZYN7S4F79GE

    Automation Direct would be another source. Ebay a third. Be sure that the station you buy has momentary contacts and isn't a switch.

    By rights you could re use the 3 way switches you have but the contactor would self restart after a power failure or after the overloads cooled down in the event of an overload trip. Not recommended.

  6. #6
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    since the starter I have ha a magnetic switch I may not be able to use other switch and I don't know if I want to spend even more on another starter. I may just buy more of the 12-4 wire and mount the switch at the middle of my machine. right ow I will leave it on the wall. got to take care of the loose wire monday. They sure lied on the noise level it was rated at 72db's and with or without the muffler it is 95 db's.
    here it is got the wire and most of the pipe done today. had to make a filter box but the silicone is drying on that.
    Steve knight
    cnc routing

  7. #7
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    adding switches to magnetic switch.png
    Here is a one way to add a remote start stop to your current magnetic starter. I pulled the pic of the guts from Grizzly so you will want to confirm. You can continue the black, grey(white) and green lines to each of the start stop stations as shown in the website I linked to above. The colors are just from using an extension cord to wire the start stop stations.

  8. #8
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    Make sure you have a proper relief valve (FPZ sells them) and a right angle filter (Solberg style) on your regenerative blower vac pump setup. Debris in a that pump will kill it and you don't want to wreck it with its own vacuum either.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Sundberg View Post
    adding switches to magnetic switch.png
    Here is a one way to add a remote start stop to your current magnetic starter. I pulled the pic of the guts from Grizzly so you will want to confirm. You can continue the black, grey(white) and green lines to each of the start stop stations as shown in the website I linked to above. The colors are just from using an extension cord to wire the start stop stations.
    cool so would I use a regular switch or a temp switch for it?
    Steve knight
    cnc routing

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick View Post
    Make sure you have a proper relief valve (FPZ sells them) and a right angle filter (Solberg style) on your regenerative blower vac pump setup. Debris in a that pump will kill it and you don't want to wreck it with its own vacuum either.
    yes got the filter box all built and it is drying and I will install it tomorrow. same with the pressure valve.
    Steve knight
    cnc routing

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve knight View Post
    cool so would I use a regular switch or a temp switch for it?
    Something like this is what I used.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  12. #12
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    I would use momentary switches. David has a good choice that is pretty cheap and comes with the enclosure. Get a couple of them and a cheap extension cord long enough to get to all of your locations and be done with it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by David L Morse View Post
    Something like this is what I used.
    man all of these of every type ship from china. is voltage a issue with these? I am trying to find one I can get shipped from the us.
    Steve knight
    cnc routing

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve knight View Post
    man all of these of every type ship from china. is voltage a issue with these? I am trying to find one I can get shipped from the us.
    For a little more money there's this.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Sundberg View Post
    I would use momentary switches. David has a good choice that is pretty cheap and comes with the enclosure. Get a couple of them and a cheap extension cord long enough to get to all of your locations and be done with it.
    well tell me where?
    Steve knight
    cnc routing

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