Parting Tool

[Robert Edington]

I need a new Parting tool. I have busted two Sorby's over the years. I guess I was hanging them too far over the rest. The last one was the result of a catch, while hanging it too far over the rest. I need a strong one.
What manufacturer's do you recommend. I don't want to make handles. So I need a handled one.
Thanks for your help.

RP

[Len Mullin]

Try the new EWT parting tool, it looks to be fairly rugged.
Len

[Ralph Lindberg]

We really love our D-Way Tools Parting Tool. Dave tells me that there is more metal milled off this tool then any other tool he makes.
I really like that the cutting edge is slightly thicker then the upper part of the blade.
In fact it was a birthday present for the DW, so it lives over at her lathe and I have to go fetch it when I want a thin part.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I second Dave's parting tool (D-Way Tools). It's strong enough to work well off the rest, even though it's an extremely thin, tapered parting tool thanks to the M-42 steel. It's perfect when parting the top off boxes as big as 5" in diameter when the grain match is critical (I'll go most of the way with the parting tool then finish with a pull saw - carefully). If you need a handle, the 9" one is plenty. If you need a really big, strong parting tool, the straight cutter from the Macnaughton coring set works really well for cutting lids from bigger blanks. Use the turret...

[John K Jordan]

Robert, I use 5 parting tools, all for different reasons (sorry, I don't have all the names here) but my favorite for spindle turning is an old Craftsman diamond style. (I tried to buy another one from a guy recently but he just laughed at me - it was his favorite too!) For bowls and such I prefer a tapered, fluted tool.

I have never broken one in thousands of uses, even far over the toolrest, and can't imagine it unless you are trying to use one without widening the slot as you part off. This is a sure way to bind up a parting tool! Regardless of which tool I'm using, I cut a short way then retract and make a second, skimming cut to the leff to widen the slot slightly for clearance for the tool. I repeat this until it is deep enough to saw through the center easily.

Another way to bind up a parting tool is part off a large piece (or one mounted between centers) all the way without sawing through the last little bit.

JKJ

[Reed Gray]

Probably the best one for reaching out far off the tool rest is the straight coring bar that comes with the McNaughton coring system. You use it with a gate so it stays straight up and down. I have had a few catches, but learned my lesson. Like John said above, you have to open up the cut to 1 1/2 to 2 kerfs, especially if you are going out long. The D Way one looks really nice to, though I don't use one much. If I had to replace, that would be my choice.

robo hippy

[carl mesaros]

Another vote for the D-way. This parting tool binds much less than any other parting tool I have tried.

[Thom Sturgill]

Which Sorby?
This one:

Or this one:

Or this one:
Or the 3/8" thick 'beading and parting' tool?

I ask because the tangs on the upper 2 look thin, and I use the bottom picture and the 'beading' tool and have never had a problem. I also use a 1/16" parting tool. Because of the height of the tools I have never had any problems with breakage on the thin tools and the thick one is used primarily for cuttting the lids on boxes where I need a tenon, so not cut deep. As others have said, you need to cut a relief cut so that the opening is at least 1 1/2 times the width of the blade.

[Ralph Lindberg]

Robo makes a good point, when I am reaching really deep, ie parting plates or platters off. I use the straight blade from the McNaughton.

[Robert Edington]

I'm pretty sure its the top one.

[David Delo]

Robo makes a good point, when I am reaching really deep, ie parting plates or platters off. I use the straight blade from the McNaughton.

Ralph,

Are you and Robo talking about the old style McNaughton cutter with the straight/sloped profile on the straight bar or the newer style pointed profile?

[Matt Mackinnon]

Thankyou for posting this thread and having a video on how to use the thin style parting tool. I have been using mine wrong and now I know why I could not seem to get it to work.

[Ralph Lindberg]

Ralph,

Are you and Robo talking about the old style McNaughton cutter with the straight/sloped profile on the straight bar or the newer style pointed profile?

I use the pointy, I'm fairly certain Robo has his ground straight.

[David Delo]

I use the pointy, I'm fairly certain Robo has his ground straight.

Thanks, I'll have to give that a spin and see how it works. Been making some taller vases lately and parting them off without reverse turning the piece with a combination of standard parting tool + easy wood square so I can get the room to get the 40/40 gouge in there and get a nice cut on the bottom and then saw off the last little nub.

[paul vechart]

Thom,

I also have tall bladed Sorby, which way do you present it to the wood? With the cutting edge on top or bottom?

Thanks
Paul

Which Sorby?
This one:

Or this one:

Or this one:
Or the 3/8" thick 'beading and parting' tool?

I ask because the tangs on the upper 2 look thin, and I use the bottom picture and the 'beading' tool and have never had a problem. I also use a 1/16" parting tool. Because of the height of the tools I have never had any problems with breakage on the thin tools and the thick one is used primarily for cuttting the lids on boxes where I need a tenon, so not cut deep. As others have said, you need to cut a relief cut so that the opening is at least 1 1/2 times the width of the blade.