Hammer K3 Winner - What I've learned in the last 6 months

[Gene Reynolds]

I've recently (this week) moved from a PM66 to a Hammer K3 Winner. On the PM66 I very often used a cross-cut sled, which has advantages of zero blade clearance plus returning small cut off pieces when retracting. Do sliding table saw users ever use a similar sled mounted to the sliding table to gain the same advantages?

[Rod Sheridan]

I've recently (this week) moved from a PM66 to a Hammer K3 Winner. On the PM66 I very often used a cross-cut sled, which has advantages of zero blade clearance plus returning small cut off pieces when retracting. Do sliding table saw users ever use a similar sled mounted to the sliding table to gain the same advantages?

Hello Gene, I use a deflector wedge for keeping small offcuts out of the rear of the blade. Here's a photo and drawing of the wedge.
Deflector in use.jpgVisio-Tablesaw deflector wedge drawing.pdfCutting small pieces.jpg

There's also a photo of a "Fritz und Franz" jig for cutting small pieces, ripping narrow strips or odd shaper pieces.

Don't be fooled by pale imitation's you may see on this forum REAL Fritz und Franz jigs have bright green T molding.

Here's a link to a Fritz und Franz in use......Rod.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqzVglze9Nk&t=114s

[Chris Parks]

You may like to watch a series of videos by Steve Rowe a contributor to this site who shows some techniques on a slider including this video on the F&F jig

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PyFjtSHrE

Also do a search of this site and have a read of other threads on sliders which will help you as well.

[Jim Becker]

Yea, Steve Rowe's videos are very useful. I recently started watching them and have picked up a few little things that I hadn't discovered on my own. Learning from others can speed the "learning curve" for sure.

[Derek Cohen]

I received a K3 Winner a few weeks ago, and have been setting it up. It has a 1250mm slider - in the USA this would be a 48"x31" .... except it is really 49" long This is as large as I can fit in my workshop, half of a double garage (I get to use the other half if I back out my car).

I've been upgrading my machines over the past half dozen years, even though I prefer hand tools. Their is also a Hammer A3-31 jointer/thicknesser (planer) and N4400 bandsaw.



I decided to add a router table to this section ...



The table is melamine-covered pressure-treated chipboard. I am happy to provide details of fitting it if anyone is interested.



The side is reinforced with aluminium plate, screwed to the side of the table and attached to the saw through the bolt holes for the extension bed ...





The router table is quite a basic one. I rarely use one, but it is useful to have. Therefore this does not have a lift, but winds up from below. Changing the bit will be aided by a MuscleChuck, which is on order.



The K3 replaces a contractor saw I had for the past 20 years. That also had a router table build to the one side. It used the saw fence to position the router table fence. The fence on the K3 is not suitable to do this owing to the large clamp. Consequently, I added T-slots.

The fence is built from aluminium box section with sliding fences (in Hard Maple) ...





Dust control is via a 50mm (2") outlet to a Festool CT26e ..



I have just added a zero clearance insert for the blades. There are inserts available for the dado head. This can be used. Felder supplied a 12" Stark 48 tooth combo, and I have since purchased a rip and crosscut, both 12", from Leuco. Minimal use yet, but they look very promising.

The fence now sports a Wixey digital gauge ..



Having go this far, I decided to redo all the hosing for the machines, increasing it to 125mm/5" from 100mm/4". I would have liked 6", but there is no point since the 120mm outlets of the Hammer machines would throttle it back. Felder sell 120/120 connectors, and these are perfect to connect 125mm hose as the 120 inlet rides inside the 125mm hose, and then may be clamped down.

I am quite impressed with the dust control on the K3. It is funnelled from the blade inside the saw, and it does so very effectively. The photo below shows a spray of dust that was exited without any help ...



This is the inside ...





Now to complete an F&F jig, and I can get back to building furniture.

Perhaps some of this will be helpful to a reader.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Gene Reynolds]

I set up my new Hammer K3 Winner (48 x 48) just about 3 weeks ago. I kind of cheated by using my John Deere tractor with pallet forks attached to the bucket to move the pallet with the saw to my shop, and then again to lift the saw from the pallet.
2017-09-09_12.58.03.jpg

I attached the dust collection port to my 6" ducting using a blast gate with a secondary hose for the blade guard.
2017-10-01_12.01.22.jpg2017-10-01_12.01.48.jpg

Like many of you I made a Fritz and Franz jig using UHMW cut to fit the slot in the slider. I know it's not official because the grippy stuff isn't European green but the gum rubber I got from McMaster-Carr works quite well.
2017-10-01_12.00.18.jpg2017-10-01_12.00.32.jpg
Since I don't have an outrigger table I don't have a crosscut arm at the outfeed end of the slider so I use a simple stop to prevent the upper portion of the F&F jig (I guess that's Fritz) from sliding.

Here I'm using the F&F jig as parallel fences to position and rip 2" strips of 4/4 poplar. The clamps in the middle probably aren't necessary but I feel really comfortable using them with my hands far from the blade.
2017-10-01_12.01.04.jpg

This is a big learning curve, especially after many years of cabinet saw use primarily for hardwood furniture, but I'm giving it a go. Thanks to the posters on this and other forums, and YouTube, for making the transition much easier!

[elliot worrall]

Keep this thread going please guys. loving it!


Also, i am thinking about putting this kreg t track and bench clamp system on my assembly table.
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c29/b...-clamp-system/

Would it work to put a plate mount on each of the Fritz and Franz sliding blocks as a clamping system?

PS: i have a B3 Winner coming and plan to use the edging shoe as end stop.

[Andy Giddings]

Keep this thread going please guys. loving it!


Also, i am thinking about putting this kreg t track and bench clamp system on my assembly table.
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c29/b...-clamp-system/

Would it work to put a plate mount on each of the Fritz and Franz sliding blocks as a clamping system?

PS: i have a B3 Winner coming and plan to use the edging shoe as end stop.

Elliot, I've never found a need for clamps when you are using the Fritz and Franz. As long as you use some kind of non-slip material on the vertical faces (sandpaper, old bike inner tubes etc) the wood is not going anywhere, even when cutting something like 4ft long hard maple strips from a 8/4 blank. Also any clamp is going to try and push the F & F out of the slot in the sliding table if you're talking about vertical clamping force

[Chris Parks]

Adding to Andy's experience I never used any non slip material on the faces at all and had no problems. My first F&F jig was two bits of 18mm MDF I pulled out of the scrap bin and they lasted a few years.

[elliot worrall]

Thanks guys. I have a saw/shaper, with no power feeder or eccentric clamp. Would it change your answer if it was also used for shaper?

[Andy Giddings]

Thanks guys. I have a saw/shaper, with no power feeder or eccentric clamp. Would it change your answer if it was also used for shaper?

Not sure I would use a F & F jig for a shaper as it wouldn't be secure or safe enough for me - I'd be worried about the material being pulled toward the cutter. If you apply vertical clamping you'll need to also fix the F & F onto the sliding table, effectively making a coping sled

[Chris Parks]

Putting a clamp on the F&F blocks will do nothing as the blocks are not themselves clamped to the table, think about it. Machines as a rule do not worry me but spindle moulders are an exception unless a power feeder or sliding table with clamps are being used. I like to be able to count to ten on my fingers and I'm definitely not into pain.

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks guys. I have a saw/shaper, with no power feeder or eccentric clamp. Would it change your answer if it was also used for shaper?

Please don't use Fritz und Franz on the shaper.

If you want to machine small parts on the shaper, buy an Aigner jig or make your own, the parts need to be clamped down.

Hammer/Felder sell the Aigner jig.

http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...e-Shaping.html

I would also recommend you use a solid break through fence, or fence safety bars.

http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...ction-set.html

I added the Hammer safety bars to my shaper, a great performance and safety improvement............Regards, Rod.

[Chris Parks]

Steve Rowe shows the Aigner Jig

[Andy Giddings]

Please don't use Fritz und Franz on the shaper.

If you want to machine small parts on the shaper, buy an Aigner jig or make your own, the parts need to be clamped down.

Hammer/Felder sell the Aigner jig.

http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...e-Shaping.html

I would also recommend you use a solid break through fence, or fence safety bars.

http://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US...ction-set.html

I added the Hammer safety bars to my shaper, a great performance and safety improvement............Regards, Rod.

I have the jig Rod is referencing - works incredibly well both vertically and horizontally. If you need to hold something larger, it has a big brother which Steve's video uses - just as good. Rod's recommendation on the safety bars is almost a must have.