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Thread: Lingerie Chest started and your strategy wanted

  1. #1
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    Lingerie Chest started and your strategy wanted

    Some of you may recall the lingerie chest I began to plan near the end of last year. I had to put the build on hold until recently, and in the last couple of weeks I have managed to get back to it, and actively begun the build.


    For a refresher, here is a very basic drawing of the front elevation (I have drawings of the details but nothing that will set your world on fire).





    All bar the drawers will be Makore, with the drawers in figured Jarrah. They will bend together really well tonally.


    The work I have begun is on the sides.


    Shaping a curved board from which four stretchers will be sawn ...








    Side view of the curve ...





    Four sawn and jointed stretchers...





    Stretchers are matched and marked, and with rails (not cut to length yet) ...





    The panels for the frame-and-panel sides have been made. These are solid and 1/4" thick, and book matched. The reason for 1/4" is to ensure that the panels bend (inside the curved frame).








    Both panels have been completed. Here they are stacked, faces inward ...





    The boards for the back of the chest have also been dimensioned, but just mention this as work done and not post pictures at this time.


    Now we are getting close to the question I have for you wastrels.


    The design for the sides came down to a choice of these four ..




    Originally I was going with "A". The lower section mimics the front. However I decided that the combination would end up with the chest looking like a tent on legs! Choices "B" and "C" were discarded as they introduced a different line. So it would be "D" - which looks plain here, except that you are not seeing it in 3D, where the sides curve outwards in the lower section.


    The stretchers are 45mm wide and 30mm thick. The design calls for a bevel on the inside face, which will link with the curved drawer fronts ..

    This drawing is not to scale, but one I drew up as a reminder for myself what I planned to do ..


    Now the area in question is the frame and panel detail. The flat panel needs a transition to the frame. There were two choices: a bead or a cove (pictures above). I have done a number of doors and panels with integrated beads, and that would have been easier. An example is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...dtheframe.html


    I decided that a cove would make a better transition, as well as link in with the shape of the drawers and, later, the moulding around the top.
    So the question is "how would you go about making this cove - keeping in mind that the frame/stretcher are curved?". Together with this, "how do you make a groove for the panel, and how deep should it be?". No, you cannot use a plough plane - unless you have one that goes around corners.


    I do have my own ideas, but I am interested in what others come up with.


    The order of all these? Again, the scale is way out.

    Your thoughts?


    Regards from Perth


    Derek

  2. #2
    Would a scratch stock work for the cove or bead? I am unclear why a router or plow plane cannot work for the panel grooves. Aren't those milled before assembly?

  3. #3
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    Derek,

    If I am following you, the grooves for the panels will curve relative to the front of the "leg" assembly (I am a bit confused as to what you are calling the stretchers - Typically stretchers are horizontal members between legs. What you have cut in curves look like the "legs" to me. In your plan & elevation, I see two exposed stretchers and two curved legs on the front elevation.). As such, I can see the plow plane not working but the curve looks shallow enough that a router plane might work fine. I would scribe then chisel the stopped ends of the groove at the lower stretcher and cut the grooves with a router plane all before assembly. These panels are only bent in one direction, right?

    As to the cove, I like Prashun's suggestion of scratch stock.
    Shawn

    "no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."

    "I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"

  4. #4
    This might be really out there, but could be useful if it did work. What about a Stanley 113 with an iron ground to the desired profile/groove width? You would be able to work convex and concave surfaces. It seems like it might work with shallower profiles and grooves. You would use the depth adjustment to max reach and then reset the iron to get a deeper cut.

  5. #5
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    I like the arrangement of panel D and I would take a bead over a cove. I dont think that design choices have to be shown in multiples if each choice makes sense for the project.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #6
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    For the panel grooves, I'm going to guess at an appropriately ground iron for your router plane. Perhaps do some rough chip making with a chisel in advance of the router's iron? I suppose that could depend on how well the lines get knifed. Apparently I've been misunderstanding questions lately so the foregoing could well be arrant nonsense.

    For the cove I'm going to guess that a beading tool with an appropriately cut scratch stock would be the easiest and fastest route. You're only working with 6mm material after all. Same warning as above.

    Those are the ways I'd approach the issues. I'm anxious to find out how you actually do it.

  7. #7
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    Derek I have not done this before so no proof of concept here. I would make a curved wood base for my router plane knife the groove and try to use the fence. The base would not be very thick for such a sweeping curve. Scratch stock for a cove, beader or scratch stock for the edge work. From your past I would guess that you have it done or at least figured out at this point. I'm waiting to be enlightened. It is always fun following you builds.
    Jim

  8. #8
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    My commenting on this issue is like a mule running at the Kentucky Derby, but it seems that it is time for some prototypes. I couldn't faithfully visualize the appearance other wise.

    I have no idea what Makore is, but the grain in the pictures sure remind me of the figure in some quarter sawn sapele I have.

    I've been planning a document box for a grand daughter about to go away to the university. Sapele will be used .
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 05-04-2015 at 8:41 AM.

  9. #9
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    Here are pictures of shaping the cove.

    A couple of points first, I ran a revised cove past Lynndy, who gave her approval. Secondly, I reduced the thickness of the rails from 30mm to 25mm. I thought the original was too chunky once the pieces were shaped. So I bandsawed/planed away 5mm. This definitely looks better.

    It was easier to test out the moulding process on the upper- and lower straight rails, so this is where I began.

    The first step was to mark out the groove for the panel. This was done with a knife gauge - even though I would be ploughing with the grain, I did not want any chip out at the shoulders.



    The lines were chisels to remove material at the walls ..



    .. and then knifed again to remove the waste ...



    It was then a simple matter of ploughing to the depth of 1/4".



    The boundaries of the cove were scored on each side with a cutting gauge, 1/4" wide on the upper side and 1/8" deep (which is half way to the groove). Then the waste was block planed away close to the lines. On the curved side rails it was easier to use a spokeshave to do this) ...





    I shaped a scraper blade from a 3/4" wide scrap of bandsaw blade ...



    This fitted so in a Stanley #66 hand header ...



    Working to the lines ...



    Shavings ...




    The result on the straight sections (with some scrap fitted to the groove to show the transition) ..



    Differences when shaping the curved rails ...

    The first was to use a gauge with a small fence as it needed to run inside the curve ...



    The other was to use a router plane (with fence) in place of the plough plane ...



    The results were the same ...





    Back next time after the side panels are completed.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  10. #10
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    Derek,

    Moving along well!

    Are those Yamahiro chisels?
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #11
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    Hi Brian

    You would notice the chisel! They are Kiyohisa - a 3 year wait. I've had them about 5 years now. They delight every time they are used.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #12
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    Thanks for sharing this. I have not played with a hand beader, and it is impressive to see what can be done.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Hi Brian

    You would notice the chisel! They are Kiyohisa - a 3 year wait. I've had them about 5 years now. They delight every time they are used.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    very nice!
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  14. #14
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    Derek I guess that is one of your hollow grind blades taking those curled up shavings with your router. Great precision work as usual. Do you have a different set of chisels for each of your builds? It does appear so.
    Jim

  15. #15
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    I have a couple of sets of chisels, Jim

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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