Flight Decks

[Prashun Patel]

I have a Veritas LA Jointer, which is about as light as a #6 but about as long as a #7. It's my favorite because it's a good balance between mass + length + ergonomics for me.

I say get what feels best for you. There is huge variance in this space, so I'd test a few. And don't count out the woodies either.

The more I do this, the more i see that required 'flatness' is dependent on the application, and is accomplishable with a variety of planes. I think more critical than the choice between #7 and #8 is the selection of a good set of straight edges.

[Howard Skillington]

Thoughtful observations, Prashun. Thank you.

[Prashun Patel]

Don't go by me, though, Howard. I'm talking out of school relative to many of the guys on this thread.

[Jim Koepke]

Again, depends on what the project is.

That is the main consideration. A person making small boxes would have a problem trying to work an 8" piece of wood with a long jointer. Likewise trying to true the edge of an 8' plank would be folly using a #4.

Maybe Mr. Sellers is well practiced at using a #4 to get a straight edge on a long board with a small plane. For me, it is easier with a longer plane.

He does have a point about that most of the second hand ones are almost never abused so maybe that's a sign of less use?

If a person hasn't seen longer planes that have suffered abuse, they haven't done much looking. Is it possible in Mr. Sellers lack of interest toward longer metal planes he walked by them on the shelf without looking? Maybe the previous owners thought highly of their long planes and took good care of them?

After reading the article it appears Mr. Sellers has a different opinion on a long plane's usefulness if it is made of wood. A lot of bevel up users would also take issue with his view on their lack if usefulness. He does seem to think a #6 sized plane is sufficient. Patrick "I've never found this size plane useful" Leach seems to think the #6 is a plane looking for a purpose.

BTW, my first #7 was purchased from a woman who said it belonged to her father. He kept it in good order since he worked in a cabinet shop. It was a type 11 in great shape other than the tote and knob being painted blue for ID in the shop. BTW, the tote had been repaired.

After fixing up an older #7 the type 11 was sold.

When the metal meets the wood, it is all up to the individual user to decide what works best for their situation in their environment. My opinion, Mr. Seller's opinion, Mr. Leach's opinion are all just that, opinions.

Along with other's opinions there is often techniques, ideas or even some entertainment to be had by paying attention. What they say about a particular plane or tool may have some influence on my decisions, but in the long run I like to learn from my own experience seasoned with the experience of those who have traveled this path before me.

jtk

[Pedro Reyes]

I have:

Stanley 7
Stanley 8 (not yet fettled, so basically as if I don't have it)
Stanley 5-1/2
Stanley 5
LN 62
(and so on).

Even if I had the 8 ready, I think I will use the 7 when I thought I needed it.

My 5-1/2 and my 5 are used probably on 100% of the projects I start (notice I never said finish)
My LN 62 about 60%
My 7 more like 30%, I figure my 8 would be less than that.

just my $0.02

/p

[Kees Heiden]

The 7 is a very nice plane, not too heavy and a nice length for a cabinet maker.

[Curt Putnam]

I have 2 6s, 1 LV BU jointer (7), a roundside 608 flattened by Tablesaw Tom, and a Chaplin 1211 (8) which I will sell soon. I absolutely love the LV BUJ and tend to use it with the fence for finishing all my edges. The 608 has been equipped with an LV PM-V11 iron and matching chipbreaker. This puppy will flatten and smooth in one operation. For me, it's best used to finish any surfacing operation. I love the 6s and will use my $15 (new cost) Montgomery Ward with laminated tote whenever I can as a fore plane. The tote is shaped like the LV handles - which shape works best for me. The Chaplin plane is getting sold because the tote is just too small for my largish hands and in the Coarse, Medium, Fine scheme, it's at the coarse end of Medium. The LV BUJ is, by far, the most versatile of the big dogs. Hope this helps. YMWV

[Tom M King]

The longest plane I can comfortably, and reliably use is an ECE Jointer.

It's 23" long. That's roughly the same size as a #7, and about half the weight in German Beech.

I use it once, maybe twice in any project.
Mostly I use a plane about 10" long.

I have one of those too. The thing I never liked about it is the sole is so short in front of the iron, but you can get a board straight with it.

[lowell holmes]

I don't use my #7 bedrock often, but when I need it, I'm glad I have it.

[Mike Cherry]

The early 5½ used 2¼" irons, iirc.

Yes, very true. I found a type 11 5 1/2 and was bewildered when I couldn't get my #7 blade to fit!

[Jim Matthews]

The 'toe' of mine is 9" in front of the blade.

That's long enough to span the undulations left by my #4 equivalent - which is about 10" long.
When I want long edges square, I have a large shooting board that allows me to use a plane on it's side.
(Terry Gordon demonstrates this on YouTube)

I find that very little flattening of broad faces is required with my current stock selection, milling technique and required degree of flatness.

I wonder if it's a tool favored by people making a particular type of furniture?


Few boards I work with are longer than 40" - I can get pretty close to s6s with a single plane, saw and quality square.

[Howard Skillington]

Post Script: I love the idea of "trying out all the options" but don't have anywhere near where I can do that. Instead, I saw a Stanley 8C on eBay that I had a good feeling about and decided to give it a try.
Big Stan arrived yesterday and, even with a blade that looked like it had been ground by a near-sighted monkey, I bonded with it immediately. I'm a big guy, so I don't find its size and weight discouraging. Once set in motion it proceeds with wonderful authority. I got the blade about halfway rehabilitated today. I think I'm going to be quite happy with it.

[Thomas Schneider]

Well bully on you! Read all the opinions posted and then go out and make your own! Be sure to come back at share your thoughts after using it for a project or two.

[Eric Brown]

Hi Howard. You don't have your location listed but if you are nearby you could try some of mine. I not only collect but use all my tools. I prefer the #7 to the #8 but it depends on what I am working on. Sometimes the extra length and weight help, sometimes it's not needed. I have two #6's. One is set up with a scraper attachment from Lee Valley. I don't find much difference between the #6 and #7. Hard as I try to do good work, I sometimes have a little nightmare that Roy Underhill comes along with a hatchet and cuts perfect dovetails with just a few chops at least ten times faster than I can with all my tools. The moral of this little story is it's not so much the tool as the skill one has. The fewer tools you have the better (and faster) you get with them. If the #7 and #8 planes didn't exist I'm sure excellent work would be done with the #6. David Charlesworth prefers the 5 1/2 for a jointer. Keep it simple. Have fun. Eric

[Prashun Patel]

Congrats. Sounds like you picked a winner.