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Thread: Upper Wall Cabinet Corner Detail....

  1. #1
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    Upper Wall Cabinet Corner Detail....

    For those of you who have built cabinets and had a wall cabinet meeting up with a corner cabinet, what was your preferred method for the transition?

    A display at Lowes has it the first way, and the book I have from Proulx has it the second way, as shown in my sketch.

    THXcorner detail.jpg

  2. #2
    I did not get much out of your sketch, but what I do is pull a sheet of 1/4" plywood out, and draw the corner cabinet out on the corner of the sheet. If your uppers are 12" deep, make the edge of your corner cabinet come out at 12". You can lay out the sides and the front, and take all your measurements from your drawing.

  3. #3
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    Either one will work,the detail from Danny,s book only requires one bevel rip cut while the other takes two.
    I find it easier to install /line up the single cut style.

    CW

  4. #4
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    Preferred method is to make the corner cabinet 16" deep off the sides and raise it 4" over the wall cabinets. Staggerd depth and staggered height (where applicable) make for a more "custom" look.

    IMG_2770.jpg Henry (5).jpg
    -Lud

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Ludwig View Post
    Preferred method is to make the corner cabinet 16" deep off the sides and raise it 4" over the wall cabinets. Staggerd depth and staggered height (where applicable) make for a more "custom" look.
    That's interesting. I'm starting to kick around a potential kitchen remodel. had not considered that option. But it seems one drawback would be the constrained opening of the adjacent doors to the corner cabinet. Maybe that's less of an issue than I think it might be?
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    That's interesting. I'm starting to kick around a potential kitchen remodel. had not considered that option. But it seems one drawback would be the constrained opening of the adjacent doors to the corner cabinet. Maybe that's less of an issue than I think it might be?
    One way to deal with that is to build (or order) cabinets a couple inches short of the total width of the space. Then you put in filler strips that match the face frames of the cabinets in places like that where doors could use more clearance. One particular place that is often overlooked is drawers in the base cabinets--they may work fine when the cabinets are installed, but when the knobs/handles are added, drawers on each side of a corner may hit a knob and not be able to be opened fully (I see this quite a bit, unfortunately).
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  7. #7
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    @ Justin......

    I had thought about doing that, but my floor plan is a bit unusual, do to space and the "open concept" my wife wants.

    Originally, there were walls on both sides of the kitchen, both those walls are coming down, adding four new base cabinets and the cabinets along the wall where the refrigerator, wall oven and pantry are located in my layout attached.

    The corner cabinet ends up being the last cabinet. I am going to make it so it opens on the kitchen side and the dining room side. Going to 16" makes the door on the kitchen side smaller, and I didn't like that.

    floor plan.jpg

  8. #8
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    Nice idea. Thanks Jason!
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Roehl View Post
    One way to deal with that is to build (or order) cabinets a couple inches short of the total width of the space. Then you put in filler strips that match the face frames of the cabinets in places like that where doors could use more clearance.
    Blech. Take good measurements, check your walls for square and oversize your stiles by an 1/8". Then scribe that inset cabinet to fit. It's personal preference, but there's nothing I dislike more than scribe molding and fillers - IMO, it's lazy and lacks a little TLC in the design phase.


    @ Justin,

    The corner cabinet for a 16" deep side can be built at 28x28 to maximize the door opening at 17" (if using 1.5" stiles). You'd lose 4" of your 39" upper. I think your layout, though, doesn't need a staggered height corner cabinet, so that argument is moot.
    Also, I'm not sure why you're building a 36" base cabinet for a 30" cooktop? Another problem is the 9" cabinet between your corner and dishwasher - if you incorporate that build into the corner cabinet, you only lose stile width once instead of twice giving you more drawer space.
    On the right wall, you have a lazy susan, then 18", 27" and 15". This is disproportionate. How about 18, 24, 18 or 15, 30, 15?
    -Lud

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the review!!

    The 36" base is there for a couple reasons. One less drawing since its the same as the sink base, and just in case the wife changes her mind, we go shopping this weekend for appliances.

    The 9" was an after thought, literally Monday night when I was putting dishes away. I moved the line of cabinets out to give more room.

    Thanks for the tip on the disproportionate side, I will fix that once we finalize the layout.

  11. #11
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    A couple tips:

    The sink cabinet will have a false front (if desired) and 2 doors below it with no rollouts unless you custom build them around the plumbing.
    The cooktop will sit between 3-6" below counter and have either electric or gas hookup. You can incorporate 2 large drawers that store pans and such below it. I like to make those with 3 equal drawers faces, but the top drawer is 15" deep (to allow for gas pipe) and only 3-4" tall for spatulas and the like. You have to read up on the cooktop spec sheet to make sure that drawer won't hit anything. A false front on top drawer with a sink tray drop out would work also.

    Kitchen real estate is highly valued if you cook, and you need all the drawers/rollouts/shelves you can get.
    -Lud

  12. #12
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    That's one of our big dilemmas right now......cooktop and appliances.

    The refrigerator and cooktop she likes, does not have a matching wall oven with microwave which I like.

    The next choice of matching appliances doesn't have a stainless cooktop, just black.

    The combination goes on, the one line that does, GE, I have been reading that they have been having alot of issues lately, so I am trying to stay away from them.

    Also, since there are no wall cabinets above the cooktop, we have to go with downdraft vent, the one I like has built it, she wants the one that "pops" up.

    Therefore - that's why I kept it 36", and my plan is to false front the top drawer exactly like the sink base, and just have doors for now. Pull Outs / Slide Out added later once the final decision is made.

    Demo starts in 3 weeks, then about 5-6 weeks I will be ready for cabinets so I have to get started building them.




    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Ludwig View Post
    A couple tips:

    The sink cabinet will have a false front (if desired) and 2 doors below it with no rollouts unless you custom build them around the plumbing.
    The cooktop will sit between 3-6" below counter and have either electric or gas hookup. You can incorporate 2 large drawers that store pans and such below it. I like to make those with 3 equal drawers faces, but the top drawer is 15" deep (to allow for gas pipe) and only 3-4" tall for spatulas and the like. You have to read up on the cooktop spec sheet to make sure that drawer won't hit anything. A false front on top drawer with a sink tray drop out would work also.

    Kitchen real estate is highly valued if you cook, and you need all the drawers/rollouts/shelves you can get.

  13. #13
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    Good luck! Holler if you run into any problems.
    -Lud

  14. #14
    each to his own but when we did our kitchen last year we made no attempt to have all matching appliances - we chose satin stainless finish for each and the appliances are not clumped together so the brand differences are not obvious. We are happy with the result as we got to chose the best appliance in every category... before we made the decision to use multiple brands we spent a LOT of time looking - over a year - before we just gave up. In every brand we looked at it was "we like everything but the _____" ... so I do feel your pain. IMHO if you want single branded appliances you will have to compromise on one or more items.

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