Razor Sharp Edgemaking, grinding wheel combo

[Mike Holbrook]

Steve, I am sorry if you find my posts or tool collection offensive in some way. I do post information on a large percentage of the tools I buy or am thinking about buying as I often get valuable information from fellow posters. I thought that was an important part of the reason for these forums. As far as my tool collection goes I sincerely doubt that i have the volume of tools that many posters on SMC do. I know I have a much smaller tool collection than Peter Galbert, Curtis Buchanan, Mike Dunbar or Drew Langsner. Yes, Windsor chairs can be built with a small hand tool collection, although none of the professional chair builders I know elect to do that. All of the chair makers I mentioned above use more machines and hand tools than I have. So far I do not have a lathe, lathe tools, a steam box, a drying kiln, bending forms which all of the chair makers I know use. Then there are the axes, wedges, froes and splitting brake(s) used to split the wood which I am missing tools from. I just don't believe I am over tooled for someone wanting to make more than a chair or two.

I would prefer to be working some wood rather than posting, unfortunately I have been unable to use my hands as much as I would like. I have had continuing allergic reactions on my hands for the last 2 years which have left me unable to do the work I would like to be doing a large part of the time. After four courses of steroids and loosing a large part of the skin on my hands 5 or 6 times I am a little reluctant to jump back in with both hands until I know what is causing the problem. Every time I have gone back to using my hands full tilt I have had a break out that got me to the point I could not turn a door knob so this time I am taking it slow.

Not trying to raise controversy over the paper wheel system, I just wondered if they were more like a felt wheel or an MDF/hard wood surface. I thought someone who posts on SMC may have used the system. Apparently Allen has, thanks for the report Allen. I may try one out on my Delta grinder should I decide to buy a second grinder. At $30 per wheel it want break the bank if they don't work for me.

[Steve Voigt]

Mike, I didn't find anything about your post offensive, and I think you took my post the wrong way. I was just trying to point that things like the buffing kit or a second grinder could be a distraction rather than a help. Sorry to hear about your hands.

[Mike Holbrook]

Steve,

My point is, it is hard to judge another poster, their motives or their woodworking habits by the small amount of information contained in specific posts on this or any other forum. I try to leave personality assessments and judgements out of my posts and can only hope my fellow posters follow suit. Glad to hear you do not find my posts offensive, but it seems to me something rubbed you the wrong way and I am sorry if I had any part in causing it as I had no intention to do so.

I have not had a regular bench grinder for many years but recently bought one as many SMC posters seemed to find them useful. I am finding that the Delta grinder I recently bought has some limitations vs most other grinders including Delta grinders not too much older. The arbor on the grinder I bought is apparently significantly shorter than other Delta grinder shafts I based my buying decision on. The base of the grinder is about the same width as the grinder body, making it very hard/impossible to use some of the better tool rests under the wheel as they are designed to be used. Although I have two CBN wheels mounted on my grinder the arbor does not go all the way through the attaching nut on either wheel. Should I elect to buy a better slow speed grinder that I can mount the tool rests and CBN wheels I have on. I might want thinner friable...wheels to mount on the Delta.

[george wilson]

Mike,by how much does your shaft not make it through the nuts? It would be simple for me to put the wheels in my lathe and turn away some of the width around the hole,so the screws would go all the way on.

However,since the rotation of the grinder does tend to tighten the nuts,it may be o.k. if a reasonable amount of thread is engaged anyway,and the nuts are tightened.

Anyway,I am willing to modify your wheels for just shipping charges if you desire. I have done services for some other members here,mostly without charge,except for making round,tubular blades for Millers Falls spokeshaves,which took some materials purchase and a fair amount of work.

[Mike Holbrook]

George you are too kind and I appreciate the offer.

I think I have the issue with the arbor nuts resolved for now though. The D-Way CBN wheel was the larger issue to get fitting the shorter arbor. I think the issue is actually with the bushings Dave uses to adjust for different arbor sizes. At Dave at D-Ways suggestion, I worked the washers a little to get them a little flatter and thinner. The arbor is 1/8 -3/16 shy of getting through the bolt now on the D-Way wheel. All but the last thread or two are engaged so I think it is fine. The Woodturner's Wonders wheel was apparently redesigned recently. I think Ken may have reduced the width of his wheels around the arbor like George is suggesting. Ken's latest incarnation of his wheels, fit on the short arbors better, even with his double washer wobble adjuster.

I made this post thinking I might buy a real slow speed grinder with a long enough arbor to handle CBH wheels and just use the Delta grinder with the regular friable wheels it is designed to use.

[george wilson]

If you need help with machining,PM me then,Mike.

[Reinis Kanders]

I often wear Atlas 370 nitrile tough gloves when doing any work that is messy, but requires dexterity. Those gloves are tougher and breathe better than regular nitrile/latex gloves, but still are tactile enough for most tasks.

[Mike Holbrook]

Those look like interesting gloves Reinis. I just bought a few pair of assorted types of gloves to try. I'm going for allergy tests soon, if nylon does not turn out to be a problem I may give those a try.