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Thread: Make Dust Collection Ducting from MDF?

  1. #1

    Question Make Dust Collection Ducting from MDF?

    Newbie here. I have a Penn Central 1 HP dust collector that I bought on Craigslist. Moving it from machine to machine got old in a hurry. As I started researching a replacement I've become more and more freaked out about the fine dust issue. I'm going to upgrade to either a Clear Vue CV1800 or an Oneida V5000. I can afford that. What I can't afford is an additional $2,000 or so for duct work. No local supplier for either metal or PVC that gets me in for much less than that.

    What I got for nothing (long story) is 100s of feet of MDF 3/4 x 16" shelving. It would be pretty simple to make rectangular ducting out of that. As far as I can find, it's going to have more turbulence and more friction loss, but it looks to me like I should have excess airflow and speed to run one machine at a time. Bill Pentz, on his site, mentions that Melamine can be used and cautions against using any flammable produce in an attic or crawl space.

    Has anyone tried this? I'd be interested in ideas and opinions from anyone who has thought a bit about the ducting issue. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    MDF ducting should work. It'll be a pain to install -- MDF weighs a whole lot more than sheet metal. And you'll have to invent bends and Y's too. But if you have more time than money, why not?

  3. #3
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    Where there is a will, there is a way. With some thought, it should work out fine but I gotta say that it sounds painful to do but you'll have your ducting for only your time invested as Jamie said. I'd love to see your progress pics as you venture through this.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

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  4. #4
    Building Y's would be relatively easy. 45's as well. Would you just make the ducting 6x6? Seems it would be a good idea to finish the inside, sand and give a 2nd coat, so the inside would be slick as possible. Going from round to the square duct would not be bad, if you use pipe to get to the duct. Think I would caulk the joints as you assemble the duct. Screws would hold it together tightly.

  5. #5
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    Some big issues:

    • Square or rectangular duct has more surface area than circular duct with the same cross-sectional area- hence much more surface drag!
    • 3/4" MDF is HEAVY!
    • Square or rectangular duct has corners which means more turbulence, but can also mean dead areas where dust and chips can settle and accumulate.
    • It will be a lot of work to build ductwork from MDF and a lot of work to reconfigure when the time comes- and trust me that day will come!
    • Why not look for some ASTM 2729 thin-walled S&D PVC pipe- it is cheaper, especially fittings, than metal, and cheaper and a lot lighter than plumbing Sched 40!
    Last edited by Alan Schaffter; 05-08-2015 at 9:26 AM.

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    Chris

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    MDF is a porus material, you can pull a vacumn right through it. If you decide to go this way you will have to paint the surface to seal it, otherwise you will be leaking along its entire length.

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    Keith, I doubt the depression in the ducting would be enough to cause that to happen, certainly not to any measurable level. I would paint the inside anyway to encourage the debris to flow better as the airflow on the sides is slower due to wall to air friction. I think it is a very practical answer if the cost savings are there.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    It never ceases to amaze me what one will go through to reach a desired goal. That appears to be very well done.

    To the OP, after reading the above I would say absolutely go for it if you're willing to put in the effort. BUT... as Alan mentioned above, 3/4" MDF ducting is going to be EXTREMELY heavy.

  10. #10
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    The ducting in that link is made from 1/8" MDF.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  11. #11
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    Consider PVC plumbing pipe; I did a 30 foot run using the stuff and so far so good. With the pipe and fittings I likely spent less than $50.00 in PVC. The rest of the costs was in blast gates, flexible pipe and home-made hangers.
    I am in agreement with others on the use of MDF. Please re-consider.

  12. #12
    Sure would be nice if you could find a local source for the S&D 6" 2729 piping. The price is right, but locally I was not able to find it so went with spiral pipe and fittings. The pipe and fittings cost more than the cyclone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Keith, I doubt the depression in the ducting would be enough to cause that to happen, certainly not to any measurable level. I would paint the inside anyway to encourage the debris to flow better as the airflow on the sides is slower due to wall to air friction. I think it is a very practical answer if the cost savings are there.
    I doubt you'll find a paint that will last very long in that environment. You'll be basically sand-blasting it every time you use it... A high-quality floor finish with aluminum oxide might fit the bill.

    Sewer and drain PVC (usually green) is fairly inexpensive, probably less overall cost than MDF (and all the finish, fasteners and glue you'll need to assemble it).
    Jason

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    MDF is a porus material, you can pull a vacumn right through it. If you decide to go this way you will have to paint the surface to seal it, otherwise you will be leaking along its entire length.
    The porosity of MDF may be an issue if you're trying to make a vacuum press, and your vacuum pump pulls 3 cubic feet per minute. But a typical chip collector pulls a thousand cubic feet per minute. A few little leaks in the duct won't have any effect.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Roehl View Post
    I doubt you'll find a paint that will last very long in that environment. You'll be basically sand-blasting it every time you use it... A high-quality floor finish with aluminum oxide might fit the bill.

    Sewer and drain PVC (usually green) is fairly inexpensive, probably less overall cost than MDF (and all the finish, fasteners and glue you'll need to assemble it).
    Be aware, there are two types of S&D, the green stuff which is SRD35 (ASTM 3034) and the lighter, thinner-walled ASTM 2729. Ideally, the best stuff to use is ASTM 2729 which is variously called "thin-wall S&D", "Solid Perf", etc. Both have the same O.D. so can use the same fittings (NOT not standard Schedule 40 fittings!), but ASTM 2729 has a thinner wall so is somewhat lighter and has a slightly larger I.D. than SDR35.

    The blue SDR35 pvc pipe is often found at big box stores, but usually only in 4" (they sell 6" fittings, however?? Go figure ). The fittings for ASTM 2729 are usually found in a separate section by the irrigation and drainage stuff, NOT with the plumbing fittings. You will often see perforated ASTM 2729 drain pipe in big box stores but rarely solid pipe and if they do have it, it will only be in 4". You can usually only find 6" at specialty pipe and irrigation, and landscape suppliers such as John Deere Landscapes.

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