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Thread: Miter Saw Dust collection hose

  1. #1
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    Miter Saw Dust collection hose

    I am diligently working on my DC system. And, like all my projects, it is taking an eternity to complete. After all, I AM the slowest woodworker on the face of the planet! The average woodworker would already have it completely installed and 3 furniture projects completed by now.
    Anyway, I am working on hooking up the CMS. I have run the 6" pvc ducting to the underside of the miter table, which seems to work just fine. I now need to hook up a hose fom the dust port down to the port under the table. I have a porter-cable 12 CMS (not a slider) The dust port is 1.5" id and about 1.75" od. I was thinking it might work if I could get some 1.5" flex hose from a vacuum cleaner shop and run that from the dc port down to a hole in the table. My problem is figuring out how to hook up the hose to the dust port. Do they make a fitting that will work for this. I got a 1 1/2 pvc elbow, but it is too big for the port. Any suggestions? Especially as to where I can get hose and fittings for this.
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

  2. #2
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    Larry

    I don't think you are going to get much from a 1.5" hose. I am building a hood to catch the dust and drop it down to a 4" hose.
    Michael in San Jose
    Non confundar in aeternam

  3. #3
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    I have 6" ducting that comes in underneath the saw. I am talking about a hose from the dust port on the saw which is 1 1/2".
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

  4. #4
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    Here a few pictures of what I have done so far with this. Maybe this will help.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

  5. #5
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    Larry

    You are doing something similar to what I am making. I think the biggest difference is that I am making a hood to catch all the stuff flying to the back, against the wall, including the what the pipe tries to catch.

    You can't make the same setup since you have a window behind the saw.
    Michael in San Jose
    Non confundar in aeternam

  6. #6

    Dc

    Larry:


    Seems to me you really will need a back-stop of some sort--perhaps a hood from Sears that I have on a RAS, or a hood from Penn State Industries (E-10224) that has a fixed base mount but can be moved around for maximum efficiency. This unit was design for wood lathes, but is flexible.

    The bottom position will help a lot if it has a powerful enough suction.

    Also, someone--I think I bought mine in Lowes--or maybe Rockler -- offers a kit of adapters/reducers. It doesn't cover everthing.

    BILL FIELDS

  7. #7
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    Larry
    I have the same PC saw and did what you did in the photo, put a 90 elbow on the back to deflect the dust downward. Putting the collection point on the bottom is good, but you will need to build some sort of containment around the saw to keep the dust from going straight out the back and falling down the wall to the floor. Might help to mock it up in cardboard before you commit to something more permanent. I ended up putting the dust outlet pretty much in the back and it does an ok job when the saw is at 90 but at an angle, most of the dust is caught in the bottom. Its not too bad since I can clean it much easier there than if it was all over the wall and floor.

    One comment though. Looking at your photo of the bench, you are killing alot of good storage space with that 6" pipe smack dab in the middle of everything. In my shop, storage space is at a premium. If you could relocate it more to the back then you would have more usuable space. I ended up using a 6" aluminum dryer vent hose which gives me some flexibility in moving the whole table which is on casters. If I was to redesign my system now, I would have it with perhaps 2 4" ports, one on the back and one in the bottom with some sort of slope to direct the flow downward.
    Last edited by Bob Aquino; 08-10-2005 at 8:18 AM.

  8. #8
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    I've got the same saw, and have recently installed a dust gorilla. I pulled a 4" line off the main run to go to the saw. I've got bigger dust makers to deal with first, so I ended the 4" run slightly above and 18" to the left of the saw. I put a bast gate on the end of the 4" line and simply left a flex hose sitting next to the fence just to the left of the blade. The 4" hose in combination with the bag collects maybe 80-90% of the dust. I plan to put in a wye going to a hood and the little port in back, mainly so I won't have to empty the bag periodically.

    Oneida sells a hood specifically for miter saws.

  9. #9
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    Would it work to just route the 1.5in. flex hose into the 6in. opening? The outlet of the 1.5in. is really self-powered by blade air movement to eject the dust into a 'collection' bag. It seems like redirecting the flow is what is needed here.

    I've never seen it done this way but it would cost almost nothing to try it. I'm in the process of installing my DC and have been contemplating this 'solution'. It would be really helpful for you to try it and let me know if it works!

  10. #10
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    Larry,

    I have the Delta cousin of tht saw. I gota a piece of carwash vac hose, 2"id I think and had some of a rubbery hose adapter left over from a project. I was able to make a bushing with that and got a tight fit. I am sure that folks are going to think I am crazy using a 2" hose ( I only use a little over a foot of it). This seems to catch 85-90% of the dust. I was really suprised. I do keep a second blastgate open to keep air flow going. I have nothing under that saw in the way of dc. I think when they redesigned that saw they had DC in mind. I think that split fence that is pain to get both sections square is that way to a llow a clear path to the dc port. Now if some one will make a CMS with a 4" port.
    Joe
    Last edited by Joe Meazle; 08-10-2005 at 10:05 AM.

  11. #11
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    John,
    From the little bit of testing I have done so far with just the downdraft from underneath. it looks to me like the hose idea would work fine. I think the hose would need to be very flexable so it would not interfere with the swinging movement of the saw. I have seen pictures of others who have done this so I was hoping to get some input from them. I am also interested in sources for fittings and hose. I can get 1 1/2" flexable hose from a vacuum cleaner shop locally, but I was wondering about fittings. I guess I could use 1 1/2" pvc fittings but was wondering about other ideas and what others have done.
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Meazle
    Larry,

    I have the Delta cousin of tht saw. I gota a piece of carwash vac hose, 2"id I think and had some of a rubbery hose adapter left over from a project. I was able to make a bushing with that and got a tight fit. I am sure that folks are going to think I am crazy using a 2" hose ( I only use a little over a foot of it). This seems to catch 85-90% of the dust. I was really suprised. I have nothing under that saw in the way of dc. I think when they redesigned that saw they had DC in mind. I think that split fence that is pain to get both sections square is that way to a llow a clear path to the dc port. Now if some one will make a CMS with a 4" port.
    Joe
    Joe,
    Where did you get the hose? I can just picture you sneaking around a car wash at 3am with a utility knife "harvesting" vacuum hose.
    Also, is that hose flexable enough? Does it interfere with the swinging movement of the saw?
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

  13. #13
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    I would do that

    Actually the wash just down from my house had replaced the hoses and threw away the old stuff. I squriled it away for a while before I used it. I have some left if you need some.
    Joe

  14. #14
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    CMS & SCMS are a strange tool to collect dust & chips from.
    I have though about this a great deal. I don't have the room or proper stand for this but my thoughts are to make a funnel shape on the bottom of the saw. It can have a flat front sloped from the front toward the back & sloped in from the sides in the same way with the back next to the wall going straight down & 6" duct connected at the bottom. A hood that would be a 1/2 circle behind the saw connected to the bottom section. This configuration would cause all the ships from under the saw to slide toward the back & all the chips from above would also hit the 1/2 round hood would hit & slide down to the bottom where the 6" DC duct would suck it all away.
    Last edited by Bart Leetch; 08-10-2005 at 10:19 AM.
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  15. #15
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    Question: Do you plan on a piece of hardware cloth on the sink drain portion to keep chunks (and maybe a pencil) from dropping in. I don't have a setup like this but it struck me I might not want just anything that could drop in, going in.

    I did have a chute directly behind my RAS once that I put 1/4 X 1/4 wire mesh in to prevent chunks from going directly into a paddle blower and bag setup. Without the screen in that case the racket of chunks going thru the blower was somewhat startling at times. I was also concerned about jetising chunks thru the bag but it never happened.

    Cardboard and duct tape mockup can be useful in deciding what works in a given case - sometimes the mockup becomes the final solution. Maybe I've seen to many Red Green shows.
    Work safe, have fun, enjoy the sport.
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