D8 Heel Backsaw.

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Phil. Did you find the information I provided helpful.

Stewie;

[Phil Mueller]

Hi Stewie, sorry, I've replied a few times, but something seems to be amiss with my internet...keep getting booted...probably my son's gaming is sucking more than the pipeline can handle.
Anyway, yes, you're info was very helpful. The finger gauge was sometime I was taught decades ago in high school woodshop. Sometimes we get caught up in the "what is the best tool to do this" and forget how accurate our sense of touch can be.
Love the file. Haven't seen one like that before. I am always fascinated by the fact that there are so many specialized tools. There was a time, not so long ago, that only saw makers might have been exposed to this tool. The internet has really enabled us to discover useful devices and techniques from all sorts of disciplines we might be able to use for our craft.
Anyway, I ramble.
The saw video was excellent. Gives me a much better appreciation of saw making and saws.

Thanks again.

Phil

[Stewie Simpson]

Shaping work to the handle is now complete, apart from some minor touch ups to the lambs tongue to improve its flow and appearance.I have also added a double step to the outside curvature on the bottom rail of the handle , to improve soften that transition point.An external curve has also been added to the exposed heel of the saw plate as a means of improving its transition away from the handle.The handle will now undergo further coats of amber shellac and light sanding in between to fill any small micro voids within the wood surface. It should also aid to further darken the final appearance of the Jarrah wood.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

The handle has received its 4th and final coat. Its actual appearance is about 2 shades darker than the camera was able to pick up. I will leave the shellac finish to further harden over the next 5 days before hitting it with a mechanical buff.

The chamfered edge on the brass back has been hand filed . This was done using a round needle file, a standard cut feather file; followed up by a fine cut feather file, and 400 grit sand paper. A 600 grit Grey 635 Bear- Tex Pad was then used to remove any fine scratches on the brass surface.

The slotted brass back has been secured to the top of the saw plate using a Loctite thread sealant.

The next phase of the backsaw build will be hand filing the saw teeth.



A closer view of the edge profile around the handle cheeks.


Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

From a distance the surface pattern on the saw plate reminds me of Damascus Steel.

[Mark Stutz]

WOW, just WOW! That would make a great addition to anyone's saw till. Now you just need to come up with your own logo to etch into the saw plate.

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Mark. A metal stamp for marking my brass backs is already underway with Chalco. http://www.spanglefish.com/metalstam...?pageid=327246

TOTE TOOL CO
AUSTRALIA

[Gary Herrmann]

Stewie, superb job on that saw!




Stutz!

[Stewie Simpson]

Thanks Gary. Appreciate the feedback.

[Stewie Simpson]

The saw teeth have been filed 11 tpi with a 10* rake angle.



Remaining to do will be to apply the set; give the teeth a single pass with the jointer file; then resharpen each tooth to a point.

The plastic sheeting is to protect the saw plate while its held within the saw vise.

Stewie;

[Rich Greinert]

Have really learned a lot following this thread.
Thanks so much for posting!
First class workmanship.

[Stewie Simpson]

Thanks Rich. Appreciate your feedback.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

The following are photo's of the now completed backsaw.

During final test cuts, I found it difficult to find a fault within this saw's functionality and design.

regards Stewie;

[James Pallas]

That is a great looking saw and it looks like it will do the job too. A few questions for you, When you design a saw do you have a primary purpose in mind, meaning narrow focus, like large tenons? It is obvious that this saw is capable of many operations but is it designed to do one thing very well? Does a saw of that length need to have more set to keep it from binding in long cuts? How much more weight does the jarrah ad to the handle then something like the plum you used in the past. I'm not going to start building saws I am however interested in your approach. Thanks in advance.
Jim

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Jim. The depth of the saw plate, not its length, is the determining factor on how much set should be applied to the saw teeth.

The difference in weight between Jarrah and the Plum wood is quite minimal.

This backsaw is designed to be most effective when used at or near full depth of saw plate. Rip and x-cut work.

regards Stewie;