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Thread: Camellia v Jojoba Oil

  1. #1
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    Camellia v Jojoba Oil

    LN changed the oil a few years ago, and I have a bunch of Camellia oil. Anyone know what the diffo is? Is this, like everything else, about $$$?

    The camellia oil says on the label there is paraffin in it.
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  2. #2
    Cheaper camellia oil is often just a light mineral oil with some camellia scent added to it.

  3. #3
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    I guess that I just don't understand the need for "exotic" oils. Why not plain old light machine oil?
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  4. #4
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    I dislike real vegetable oils. I have a sneaking fear that they will go sour, turn rancid, or whatever. I prefer a wipe down with CorrosionX or truly synthetic motor oil. I keep a micro-fiber cloth soaked with the stuff in a tightly sealed jar - out on the bench. Anytime a tool goes back to bed, it gets a wipe down.

    IMO & YMWV

  5. #5
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    My camellia oil is in japanese, so I truly have no idea what is inside the container.....my tools remain rust free though.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    My camellia oil is in japanese, so I truly have no idea what is inside the container.....my tools remain rust free though.
    As is mine. I have a shop rag that has become saturated that I keep in a tin on the bench. I rarely have to actually spray any from the bottle. It may last my lifetime and then some.

  7. #7
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    Hah, very true. I dont use very much of it to wipe down my tools.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #8
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    +1 on the rag in a tin plan.

    I recently ended up buying a quantity of camellia from Tools from Japan - even with shipping it was cheaper than my more local options. What i like about camellia is that it's very easy on the skin (is actually used in the hair in the East) and doesn't have any great tendency to stain. Keeps stuff in good shape too i think, although my shop is not a hugely demanding test...

  9. #9
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    I have some supposedly 100% camelia oil that I got on eBay, but it gets sticky over time and turns brownish colored (on the tool, not in the bottle.) That said, it certainly doesn't let anything rust. I suspect it may be cut with vegetable oil. I saw a story on olive oil and they were saying even the expensive extra virgin stuff is cut with cheaper oils unbeknownst to the buyer.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malcolm Schweizer View Post
    I have some supposedly 100% camelia oil that I got on eBay, but it gets sticky over time and turns brownish colored (on the tool, not in the bottle.) That said, it certainly doesn't let anything rust. I suspect it may be cut with vegetable oil. I saw a story on olive oil and they were saying even the expensive extra virgin stuff is cut with cheaper oils unbeknownst to the buyer.
    Wonder what's in your bottle? Or maybe - what's in mine [same as Brian's, sounds like] ?. > 10 years old, no discoloration, no change in viscosity, consistency......
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  11. #11
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    The only difference that I can tell is that Jojoba is a thicker oil. I personally have been using it for years without any issue unless I leave it on a tool for a long time without using that tool. After a while it will paste up and turn brownish. But that is when I break out the CLP breakfree (gun cleaning oil) and give a good wipe down and wipe off. I would use strictly CLP but I have a fear that it may stain something I'm planing and not be finish friendly, which has never happened back when I did use it. I just use Jojoba because that is what the people at LN told me they preferred and the two bottles I've had has lasted me 6+ years. For all I know it is pure vegetable oil straight from Walmart.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Shea View Post
    The only difference that I can tell is that Jojoba is a thicker oil. I personally have been using it for years without any issue unless I leave it on a tool for a long time without using that tool. After a while it will paste up and turn brownish. But that is when I break out the CLP breakfree (gun cleaning oil) and give a good wipe down and wipe off. I would use strictly CLP but I have a fear that it may stain something I'm planing and not be finish friendly, which has never happened back when I did use it. I just use Jojoba because that is what the people at LN told me they preferred and the two bottles I've had has lasted me 6+ years. For all I know it is pure vegetable oil straight from Walmart.
    Hey - it could be worse.........it could be in a green bottle with its own personalized Systainer.

    If it works, it works.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  13. #13
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    I have the "Japanese" Camellia oil. I use it in the hope that it will have less tendency to cause my hands to break out in an allergic reaction. I am very suspicious of any oils with cleaning, anti-rust...ingredients, like WD-40. I'm not saying I don't use oils like that because I do on a regular basis. I just do not like a film of those oils on things my hands are going to be gripping or constantly touching. I have not seen the Jojoba oil for use on tools. LV is selling Jojoba instead of Camellia oil now?

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