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Thread: Types of wood that will keep the bark on

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Western, NY
    Posts
    63

    Types of wood that will keep the bark on

    I am building my wood shop currently, and have lots of family members and friends asking for some projects to be built once I am operational. This is fun because it is giving me some testing grounds to learn new skillsets and experiment.

    I had a friend ask me if I could build some items, but that they wanted the bark to remain on some aspects of the lumber. It may end up looking like I would mill up two parallel sides for ease of construction, but the rest of the logs/limbs would remain natural. Forgive my ignorance, but are there some species of wood that are better than others at keeping their bark after they have dried out and been used in a project? Also, are there some things that I can/should do to preserve the bark?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    The tree needs to be felled and sawn in the dormant season for the bark to remain tight. During the growing season, the cambium is actively putting down wood on the inside and bark on the outside. If the tree is felled and sawn during the growing season, the bark will not remain tight and will like likely come off as the boards dry.

    Also, wood boring insects love boards with bark on them as there are sugars in the inner bark, so you need to treat the bark edges as well as the boards. The best thing to use is disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. One brand name is TIMBOR.

  3. #3
    +1 on cutting in winter. I treat with Borocare which is borax and fungicide. I have had good results with sassafras persimmon and cherry bark.

  4. #4
    Keeping the bark in tact is tricky.

    Explore with your friend the difference between 'bark to remain on' and 'live edge'. Live edge slabs and pieces often have the bark removed, leaving the underlying curve and bevel in tact. This region is often varied in color vs the center of the board and can leave you with a great organic or rustic aesthetic, which might be really what your friend is after. Removing the bark ironically makes the job easier and gives more options for finishing for you the woodworker.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Chandler, Az
    Posts
    325
    I've had very good luck with Mesquite and Sasso. Have fun

    Jim

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Tyler, Texas
    Posts
    2,041
    Danny gave you good advice...cut the trees during the dormant season. As a Forester, he knows a little about trees.

    I don't know how large the project is you are considering but I've had good luck on natural-edge bowls by coating the bark with thin CA glue, being sure to soak the cambium area, too. Don't use accelerator as it will turn the CA white but just flood it on and let it dry on its own.

    If you have a dust collector, let it run with an intake duct close to the area where the CA is being applied so that it will suck the fumes away or wear a good respirator or do both. That much curing CA can really burn the eyes and nose. DAMHIKT.
    Last edited by Cody Colston; 05-15-2015 at 4:00 PM.
    Cody


    Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln

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