What length screws do I want for 3/4 face frames or plywood? Any other length screws good to keep on hand? thanks in advance Chris
What length screws do I want for 3/4 face frames or plywood? Any other length screws good to keep on hand? thanks in advance Chris
I believe 1-1/4" is recommended for 3/4" stock, but I switched to 1" and pre-drill pilot holes because I got tired of maple face frames splitting. Plenty strong.
Use fine threads for hardwood and coarse for softwood/plywood.
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
I use 1-1/4" Kreg screws. I've not had a problem with splitting in oak, poplar or soft maple.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
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I always have screws for 1/2", 3/4" (both course and fine) and 1 1/2" (2x stock) on hand. Each box has a handy little guide for screw type on them I think, and of course you can google "kreg screw chart" to find it.
Last edited by Matt Day; 05-16-2015 at 4:47 PM.
I have gone to predrilling my holes as well, tired of splitting out a face frame. Have found that walnut works better with coarse thread screws.
When buying Kreg screws, check out Home Depot online, with free delivery to store. Saves a bunch of money.
Like Scott says, 1 1/4" screws for 3/4" lumber.
here is a handy reference
http://www.elitetools.ca/en/product/...tor-wheel-ssw/
I am sure it is available in the United States
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
If you're getting a lot of splitting, you're drilling too close to edge of the stock and your clutch may be set too high on the drill. It's most likely that you're drilling too close. I had to beat my helper with a stick before he could remember to stop drilling them so close.
Stay away from knots on the ends if you're building something rustic - should go without saying, but we all know that's never the case.
If you're getting splitting on the receiving piece, you're too deep with the pocket screw. I still use the Kreg jig, and the only problems I've had with splitting were from what I mention. Hickory is the worst.
-Lud
Apparently I'm the only one who uses 1½ for pocket screws. I don't use a Kreg jig, or Kreg screws either.
Last edited by Martin Wasner; 05-17-2015 at 10:04 AM.
That would explain it,. The offset and or angle could be different.
I use pocket holes as a problem solver more than a common assembly method. Due to that I keep washer head screws and pan head "pocket" screws of various lengths. Back before a lot of accessories were available I built a depth gauge.
PH-collar-set.jpg
Things have gotten a little more sophisticated now and if this didn't already have a home in a drawer, would probably have been scrapped. You drop the drill into the proper hole, slide the stop down till it stops and tighten it. I taped a label on with general screw size and jig position info. The numbers for offset are from actual test pieces and I'm sure there are other methods and approaches.
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