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Thread: Re-Sawing, how big of a band saw

  1. #31
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    Yes Art, as it happens I guess, because I am asking a question about something I'm not sure about, I probably called it the wrong thing.

    This question started because in a different thread I mentioned I was using my table saw to cut (example) 11 inch by 100 inch 4/4 poplar. In that thread, I was told I really should be using a band saw. That is why I asked and I seemed to have opened a can of worms. LOL

    Quote Originally Posted by Art Mann View Post
    I must have been writing my last post while you were also writing yours because I didn't spot it. As it turns out, only a small part of the discussion has anything to do with your original inquiry. I would call what you are wanting to do as parallel ripping rathr than resawing. It is still interesting though.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by John Lanciani View Post
    The other side of that is that feeding too slowly prematurely wears out a blade just as fast, or faster...
    John, I 100% agree with you but will add that, at least in my experience, 9/10 times, the owner burns the blade by pushing it too hard. The whole "Moar Powarrr" thing, LOL.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  3. #33
    I also depends on the blade thickness.

    The WoodSlicer is incredibly thin, so you get a lot more "effective" HP, and if you want a carbide blade, the Laguna "Resaw King" is significantly thinner than other top brands.

  4. #34
    Just another data point to further confuse people. I was trying to do some resawing last night with a brand new Timber Wolf 3/4" x 2/3VPC M42(Bi-Metal) blade on my 20" Northfield which has a 2HP motor. I was cutting some ~6" wide Maple and was able to bog down the saw prettily easily if I pushed a little to hard. I'm no expert, so the saw might not have been setup the best for resawing, and that may not be the best blade, but if I wanted to do this frequently on wider boards I'd want significantly more power, probably 5HP.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allan Speers View Post
    I also depends on the blade thickness.

    The WoodSlicer is incredibly thin, so you get a lot more "effective" HP, and if you want a carbide blade, the Laguna "Resaw King" is significantly thinner than other top brands.
    That's true as long as the wood behaves well, but if the kerf closes just an ant hair a Woodslicer will come to a screeching halt. As good as those thin kerf blades cut when everything is perfect, my wood almost never seems to be perfect. I get a lot more consistent results with a blade that has enough tooth set to handle less than perfect wood. And then we are back to needing HP to drive the blade.

    John

  6. #36
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    I've had similar results and maple seems to be one of the worst offenders. I'm guessing it's caused by interlocked grain; rather than being a pure ripping cut, the blade encounters grain running in all kinds of directions when it hits those areas. In any case, it sure bogs down my saw and more HP would be helpful in dealing with it.

    John

  7. #37
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    Scott,

    I didn't read your previous thread, but I don't agree with the advice that a bandsaw is a better tool than a table saw for creating straight edges. I have owned both for many, many years and I almost always use rough cut lumber from the sawmill. I would not normally choose a band saw for ripping long boards over a table saw. The tool table is too small and the outfeed table would have to be quite tall and large. To me, that is incredibly clumsy and error prone compared to a table saw with an outfeed table and a straight edge jig. If you are having trouble with not enough power on your table saw, go buy a quality thin kerf ripping blade (not glue line rip) if you aren't already using one. It will increase the performance by approximately double and they aren't very expensive.

  8. #38
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    More HP is always good. My MM16 has 4.8hp and it hasn't choked on anything yet.


    Jack - always a pleasure to see your vids.
    Where did I put that tape measure...

  9. #39
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    More horsepower is not always good when you have to sacrifice the purchase of some other equally necessary piece of equipment in order to get it. I know it is hard for some to believe but there are good woodworkers who have furnished their entire shop for about what a MM16 costs.

  10. #40
    John, I'm glad to read that, since I agonized over whether to get the 5 HP, 21" Grizzly I'm about to bring home (tomorrow.)

    I'll be resawing a LOT of figured hard maple, as well as cutting custom veneer from various blocks of burl. It's looking like I didn't really need 21" wheels, since everyone is telling me NOT to install a 1.25" blade. (That was my main reason for going with larger wheels) but 5 HP is part of the deal, so I'm feeling better!

    - But a related question: I was planning to get the Laguna Resaw King, instead of the Lenox WoodMaster. Both are excellent, carbide-tipped blades with low TPI, but the Lenox has a slightly wider kerf. Most people say the Laguna is the better blade, but do you think that, specifically for figured & squirrely wood, the thicker Lenox would be better?

  11. #41
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    Sorry, Allan, I can't offer any advise on that. Maybe someone else with direct, comparative experience can help you out.

    John

  12. #42
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    I own a woodmaster ct, trimaster, and resaw king. All are amazing and have cut all I have thrown at them. Some say they cannot get the woodmaster ct sharpened but I have no experience with that yet as I have not dulled it. I had a resaw king sharpened by laguna and it came out great. I had a trimaster sharpened by sanders tools (it was bought by someone else since) but I had not used it before that because they also cut and welded it to length.

    So if sharpening a woodmaster ct is an issue get the resaw king.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim German View Post
    Just another data point to further confuse people. I was trying to do some resawing last night with a brand new Timber Wolf 3/4" x 2/3VPC M42(Bi-Metal) blade on my 20" Northfield which has a 2HP motor. I was cutting some ~6" wide Maple and was able to bog down the saw prettily easily if I pushed a little to hard. I'm no expert, so the saw might not have been setup the best for resawing, and that may not be the best blade, but if I wanted to do this frequently on wider boards I'd want significantly more power, probably 5HP.
    I have to retract this statement. Turns out that I wasn't stalling the motor, the belt was just slipping. I had just installed an adjustable twistlock belt which was great for vibration, but it always seems to slip no matter how tight I make it. Not sure what to do about it.

  14. #44
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    Link belts are a bad choice for a bandsaw. Fractional HP belt and prone to slipping. Get a VX and your Northfield will be happy. Dave

  15. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick View Post
    I own a woodmaster ct, trimaster, and resaw king. All are amazing and have cut all I have thrown at them. Some say they cannot get the woodmaster ct sharpened but I have no experience with that yet as I have not dulled it. I had a resaw king sharpened by laguna and it came out great. I had a trimaster sharpened by sanders tools (it was bought by someone else since) but I had not used it before that because they also cut and welded it to length.

    So if sharpening a woodmaster ct is an issue get the resaw king.
    Mike,

    we're slightly off-topic again, but since you've used all of the "big three," can you described when / why you select each?

    One thing I'm particularly on the fence about is which blade to et for resawing, because I also need to rip stock over 2.5" thick. If money was no issue, I'd get the resaw king, 1.25" This is documented to tension well on my Grizzly 21". However, I can't afford a second carbide blade right now, so I'm thinking maybe the TriMaster instead, and just use a slower feed. I have 5 HP, so that should work, and give a better finish as well. - or will it?

    The last part of the puzzle is kerf width. Many say that a wider kerf is better for difficult woods, like the figured hard maple I will be resawing. The Lenox CT is wider than the Laguna, so maybe THAT's my best bet? (Except it has even less TPI, so not a good general ripping blade.

    If you can even understand my questions, what do you advise?

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