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Thread: Honing compound to wheel

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,356

    Honing compound to wheel

    Hello carvers,

    This is my first post to this section.

    I love to carve, but don't do it much.

    Have the outfit here:

    DSCN0450.JPG

    I was using the stropping stuff, green and yellow, but it gets in clumps on this wheel-I primarily use the one on the right, as you can tell.

    My main question is--I started using Tormek white compound on it, removing it periodically with a scraper card. Is this too way off base?

    How to apply regular cmpd so it won't clump and get bumpy on the wheel?

    Extra question-do any of you all hone the inner radius of your chisels/gouges? As in the wheels on the left. I mean, those are supposed to be deal flat like a plane iron, right? Some level of sophistication is likely required to relieve the back--using the wheels on the left, correct?

    If it makes any diffo, I was told to buy "Pfeil, Pfeil, Pfeil" years ago--so that is the geometry that I have.

    Thanks
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    North Little Rock, AR
    Posts
    80
    I will occasionally use small amounts of mineral oil, applied with my finger and a paper towel, to smooth out the compound a bit more. But if it gets too sticky from the mineral oil, you may need to let it dry out a day or two. I sharpen all my outside flats and radius on a wheel like the one on your right side. The other wheels are used to remove any small burrs on the inside radius that may have been caused by the other wheel. They aren't so much for honing as polishing that burr off and they are especially good for smaller tools also. My sharpener just has a buffing wheel that is used for that purpose, v-tools and gouges both. I love my Pfeils, but honestly even cheap tools cut well once you learn to sharpen. I use all the old cheap ones for special profiles or other experimental shapes and purposes now.

  3. #3
    You need to read Chris Pye on sharpening and modifying and putting a carving tool into service. Almost all of my tools have an inside bevel to some degree in order to use them upside down and get out of a cut. I don't feel any tools come ready to use, I lower the bevel on most to fit the way I hold and use the tool, I also round the heel and relieve the a part of the bevel. There was also an article in fine woodworking a few years ago on how to set up carving tools for use. I think the article was by Al breed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,356
    mike and tom--thanks, I will take that advise

    d
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  5. #5
    Some swear by inner bevels, some at them.

    I always use them
    1. It allows me to turn the gouge upside down and use it that way without it digging in. Very handy in the shallower sweeps.
    2. It acts like a chip breaker and rolls your shavings up. Very useful on a V-tool, keeps them from clogging, or wedging.

    Try it and see for yourself.

  6. #6
    David,
    May I ask where you sourced that shaped honing wheel from?

    Regards

    Derek

  7. #7
    In case he's gone away, Derek - Chipping Away in Canada. I don't know if they sell just the wheels or not.

  8. #8
    Many Thanks Robert,
    I'm in Oz and haven't seen anything similar for sale.

    Regards

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