Just wondering - using outboard fence on shaper

[ian maybury]

Larry's thread prompted this - i've not used an outboard shaper fence. As in a outboard second fence mounted in the miter slot. This isn't in the context of a specific job, it's more an 'I wonder what uses the method has' and 'how it's done' sort of question. (didn't want to hijack Larry's)

One very nice example seems to be cope and stick cutting - in that case it seems the work is kept pushed out against the outboard fence using a power feeder. (tracking out a little rather than the ususal in) One advantage in that case seems to be that the stock can be a little irregular in width since the cutter places the profile a set distance from it - and so guarantees a consistent finished stock width. The main infeed fence in that situation may be set back a shade to let the stock through (?), while the outfeed is presumably stepped in enough to support the work coming off the cutter. (?) Looks like it's a technique that needs a power feeder.

It seems a very elegant method, this guy demos it very nicely on cope and stick: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28uLpNzHXnY He's also using a nifty set up where both the coping and the sticking cutters stay mounted on the spindle. His coping sled sets the work at the right height for the top coping cutter to work, he then in a minute or two switches to using an outboard fence at table level to use the lower cutter to handle the sticking. He suggests using shims to fine tune the relative height of the two cutters.

Another neat looking solution. He uses a T track screwed to the bottom of the outboard fence as the key to engage in the mitre slot, and then a couple of simple work clamps to lock it down at the ends under the shaper table....

Does the method open up any other nifty options?

[Kevin Jenness]

It is good for many operations including sizing square-edge stock to width. Pretty well eliminates sniping due to misaligned split fence halves. Our fence is a 6" wide piece of hdf faced veneer core plywood edged with plastic laminate and slotted across its width. Three pairs of tapped holes in the shaper table accept cap screws to secure the fence through the slots and allow a range of width settings.

[Larry Copas]

I use an outboard fence whenever I run T & G cedar for closet lining, or blanket chests. First pass I cut the groove with the regular fence. Second pass is against the outboard fence. This pass cuts the tongue and also sizes the boards width. Many variation's on that theme are possible.

[Peter Quinn]

I've been using it recently to accurately dimension lots of parts for some mirrors that had to come out precisely the same width and were only 3/8" thick, so standing them up through a planer wasn't an option, I used a climb cut to keep the edges very clean with no chip out. I've done v -bead, flooring, cope and stick etc this way, its a good way to accurately dimension a bunch of face frame parts. I saw set ups in the past that were hand fed but the standard chip hood had pressure bards pushing the stock firmly against the outboard fence to keep things smooth. I have hand fed window parts with a back, in that case the stock went in accurately dimensioned and both in and out feed were tight to the work, I was taking out the glass rabbit as a second operation so i still had a consistent bearing surface, no split fences on the hood. I'm sure there are other creative ideas I haven't learned yet.

[Jeff Duncan]

I think you've got it mostly right, except the out feed fence does not enter the operation. The outboard fence extends across the shaper and supports the work from beginning to end. The "regular" fence is pushed back and really just there for chip collection…..well and safety too

JeffD

[ian maybury]

Thanks guys, that's very informative. Sounds like it's major advantage is the simultaneous profiling of one side of a strip while ensuring a very accurate width as well and no snipe. Nice one for the tool kit...

I wasn't 100% sure about the outfeed fence Jeff - whether or not the feeder on it's own would be sufficient to stabilise the stock. Guess it's helped in this case by not have to deal with the effects of a gap as in the case of the main fence.

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes Ian it's great for profiling and dimensioning in one pass, with a feeder of course.

I normally use the tenon hood on mine for dust collection..........Rod,

[J.R. Rutter]

I sort of skipped my way though the video, so I'm not sure if he mentioned this, but you could set up your outboard fence to cut two different widths by rip trimming it after the miter bar is attached. Just spin it 180 degrees. In fact, you could put miter slot bars on both faces and have a total of 4 different fence options permanently set up and ready to run.

[ian maybury]

He didn't mention it JR, that's another nifty thought.

There's a photo of a big old German shaper at the bottom of this page in Larry's original thread (the very wide table must help for this) showing a capstan/rotating stop/adjustable stop bolt arrangement that looks like another way to get there - it gives the option to set up five or so stock outboard fence settings: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...rd-fence/page2

[Randy Henry]

I bolted Incra t-track with a scale on each end of my shaper. The outboard fence is secured using t bolts. Once I got my fence scale set up and dialed in, I just set the scale to the width of stile/rail I want. I over cut all the widths by 1/16". The outboard fence itself is a piece of aluminum 1/4" x 2". No flexing at all.

[Joe Calhoon]

Ian,
There are a number of ways this can be done. I use the Aigner setup and a shop made one as we discussed in the previous thread.
100 years ago when we ran dedicated shapers for cabinet doors I had an aluminum plate drilled and tapped into the shaper table at the widest width we ran for doors. For narrower widths we had 1/4" Plexiglas spacers with a hook at the infeed side. We usually clamped these on with a spring clamp but you really did not need a clamp as the feed pressure kept them snug to the plate fence. It worked well because most cabinet door part widths fall into predictable widths. Now days because of our wide variety of work the adjustable fence is a must.

The fence on the Okoma shaper was proprietary to them but I have seen that type fence aftermarket in Germany. Cannot remember the brand.
Randy’s solution is a good one for US type shapers but the Euro shapers usually have things going on at the indeed and out feed that might not allow that type.
The big advantage to outboard fences is consistency of part width, ability to run short pieces and no sniping. The only disadvantages are a little poorer dust collection and multiple widths such as house door parts require re -positioning the fence.


With any sticking cut it is important to remove a little from the edge to get a clean cut. Doing this with the normal split fence takes a little setup unless you have a high-end shaper with digital fences. Even when you get the snipe out sometimes you are creating wedges in the work piece where one end is a little different in width than the other. For most work this does not matter if you are off a little. But in the case of some products we make like tilt turn windows the little differences can add up to be a problem by the time sash and frame are made.

Another type of outboard fence is one that puts pressure against the split fence. Window machines have these to keep even pressure on work pieces to avoid making a wedge. I have seen these on shapers also. With this type fence the feeder is angled toward the split fence as in normal feeding.

Okoma2.jpg

Crafter Fence.jpg

[ian maybury]

Thanks guys - all good stuff. New to me - it's great to get some items to stash in the mental toolbox for future reference.

Some playback on the outboard fence prompted by Joe's: (a) the elimination of snipe i guess is a consequence of running the part against an outboard fence with no gap, (b) power feeding seems pretty much essential with one, (c ) what you mean on set up is presumably that there's no need to mess about with stepping in the outfeed half of the main fence to support work on the outfeed side as a result of some of it having been machined off. (d) it must eliminate too most of the ifs and buts in precisely locating the power feeder so that it doesn't tilt work away from the fence or into the gap and cause the sort of snipe and taper issues you mention.

It shouldn't be too hard to come up with a DIY version of the full length sprung fence in the second photo if needed - a couple of feather boards pressuring a wooden sub fence for example.