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Thread: Engraving test file

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Engraving test file

    I've had my Trotec for a couple of months now and have been using it mainly for cutting our own stencils and a few signs from acrylic and MDF. However, I've had a few enquiries about doing some engraving so I now seriously need to start to get my head around the engraving side and will be testing out some new materials - anodised aluminium, some fancy wood (not just MDF or ply) and some granite.

    With this in mind do you guys have a standard test file that you use when trying to get the optimum power/speed settings for a engraving onto a new material? If so, what do you include in it?

    I was thinking of a couple of different fonts at different sizes, various line weights and shapes and a couple of images - is this about right or total over kill? Do you guys just use an image that you know works well on most materials and a couple of line weights?

    I am assuming that it is individual choice etc, and that there isnt an industry standard file due to the amount of different machines and materials available.

    As usual, thanks for any help and advice given.

    Cheers,

    Graham
    Speedy 300 80W
    CorelDRAW x7

  2. #2
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    I normally just make a small 1x1" or 2x2" snipet of what I'll be engraving to minimize waste, testing it over and over until I get the settings right.

  3. #3
    Engraving can get quite tricky on wood if you want some really nice results. e.g. typically I engrave wood 8mm out of focus and slow speed to get a really nice dark burn. But you can only do this if the artwork does not have fine detail. Also some engraves require shading which makes things fun too. You just need to get a few materials and have a play. Most machines let you tune out the backlash on the belts if you need precision engraving too. I like to engrave very small concentric circles to test that.

    Settings change things a lot, here are some things to consider
    Speed - slower gets more burn
    Power - sets your depth
    Tuning - compensates for backlash
    Focus needs good calibration for fine work.
    Focus - out of focus for extra burn and hides raster lines
    Resolution - higher resolution = slower engrave, higher price
    Nozzle - some engraving requires the nozzle be removed
    Masking - some engravings need to be clean so the work needs to be masked.

    Lots of stuff to work out. I document my successes so I can repeat them with little effort. Basically your test pattern will be different for what you are trying to tune.

    Cheers
    Keith
    Universal Laser VLS6.60, Tantillus 3D printer, Electronic design
    edns Group, Mairangi Bay, Auckland, New Zealand

  4. #4
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    Thanks gents, it seems that I have a lot to think about and practice
    Speedy 300 80W
    CorelDRAW x7

  5. #5
    Graham
    Keep it simple to start with as its best take each step and learn as you go

    good luck Frank
    Shenhui Laser G570 80W RECI

    Adobe CS6, Corel x6 and other bits and all of which I struggle with


    I am from the West coast of Ireland thus I chatter a lot

  6. #6
    When you're testing fonts be sure to test a few script fonts. They tend to be more bothersome than standard fonts because of the fine lines. When you test the script fonts vary the dpi to see which works best.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  7. #7
    Just remember, you can change the power and speed when it's running, so pick a starting place, as it's engraving, keep changing it until it's where you want, then save those to the material settings (it's a save icon next to the power setting boxes).
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    I have a few test files. All of these test files are stored in my laser's memory.

    1. Line Power
    This prints a 2" x 3" "card" that has cut lines stepping from 10% to 100% in 10% steps with the speed set to default so it can be controlled by the panel. This is used to find the power and speed combo on a new material that will do a clean cut. I can run it right from the printer panel and since the speed is controlled by the panel, its universal.

    2. Line Speed
    Identical to #1 except that the speeds are stepped from 10-100, and a second one stepped from 100-200 both stepped by 10mm/s. The power is set to default so its panel controlled. Same use as #1.

    3. Dot Line Power
    Same as #1 but the lines are dotted. Used to test perforations on a new material.

    4. Raster Power
    This prints a 2" x 3" card that has small boxes stepped in power from 10 to 100% with the speed set to default. This is used on a new material to test engrave depths or ability to remove anodizing/coating.

    5. Raster Font
    This prints "Wolfie" out in raster mode on a a 2" x 3" card. Speed is stepped from 100 to 300 in 50mm/s steps on one and 300 to 500 (max speed on my laser) on the second. Power controlled by panel. Used to see how deep fonts will engrave or how well it removes anodizing/coating. I usually use this after #4 gets me in the ballpark.

    6. Raster Font 2
    Prints "Wolfie" in raster mode. Both speed and power are controlled by panel. Used to fine tune after #4 and #5 above.

    When I get a new material, I usually run these test cards on it. Obviously only the ones that are appropriate, like cut tests on aluminum are skipped. On the back I write the material (if its not obvious) as well as any default panel settings (ie speed for #1 or power for #2). The cards are cut out (when possible, ie not so much for aluminum but fine for wood/plastics) and have a small hole in one corner so I can clip them to a keychain I keep near the laser as a reference book. I usually run the tests twice, once with masking tape, once with a clear coat paint or nothing depending on which is most applicable to the material.
    [SIZE=1]Generic Chinese 50w 300x500
    Lulzbot TAZ 5 3D Printer

    Corel X7, Photoshop CS6, Lightroom 4
    Modo, Bryce, Poser


    If You Can Read, Thank A Teacher. If You Can Read It In English, Thank A Veteran
    That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. - Manny from Ice Age

  9. #9
    I did not know that Scott - what do you do, simply change the figures for both rastering and cutting on the fly?
    Jit Patel
    London UK

    30w Trotec Speedmarker CL (Galvo) with 400mm & 250mm lens
    80w Trotec Speedy 400 with Rotary, Vacuum Table, Cutting Lamellas, 2" & 1.5" lens, Pass through
    Oki Printing Press
    Abobe Creative Suite - Illustrator, Photoshop, InDesign.
    Vector Magic


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jiten Patel View Post
    I did not know that Scott - what do you do, simply change the figures for both rastering and cutting on the fly?
    Yes. You can press the pause button, alter the power or speed and then press resume. Mine reverts to the previous settings after its done so write down or remember what you changed it to.

    I used to use that method but I found it better to spend a few minutes printing out test cards for reference. gets me pretty close to start with. Each image rasters a bit different but I don't do much with images. Most of my stuff is font, text or vector shaped based instead of photographic.
    [SIZE=1]Generic Chinese 50w 300x500
    Lulzbot TAZ 5 3D Printer

    Corel X7, Photoshop CS6, Lightroom 4
    Modo, Bryce, Poser


    If You Can Read, Thank A Teacher. If You Can Read It In English, Thank A Veteran
    That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. - Manny from Ice Age

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Jiten Patel View Post
    I did not know that Scott - what do you do, simply change the figures for both rastering and cutting on the fly?
    Jit, you don't have to hit pause. See the graphic below. Unfortunately, it only works for red and black (don't get me started, I asked for that to work for all colors 2 years ago...) , but all you do is go to this area, enter your new settings, hit the enter button or tab over to the next location. If you see it's cutting good there, then just hit the disc button on the right and it'll save those settings to that material.

    Click on this image to enlarge it.
    Screen Shot 2015-05-26 at 3.22.35 PM.png
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  12. #12
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    Scott, some printers won't accept changes to settings while they are running a job. Mine won't. At least I have never gotten it to do so. It does fine if I press pause, change, and then un-pause.
    [SIZE=1]Generic Chinese 50w 300x500
    Lulzbot TAZ 5 3D Printer

    Corel X7, Photoshop CS6, Lightroom 4
    Modo, Bryce, Poser


    If You Can Read, Thank A Teacher. If You Can Read It In English, Thank A Veteran
    That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. - Manny from Ice Age

  13. #13
    I understand Mike, but Graham was asking about it on his Trotec, so I wanted to make sure he knew that it was possible. Most people don't even know you can change things on the fly, so that's why I brought it up.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    United States
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    Mike to clarify this is Job Control exclusive to Trotec Scott is talking about. Your software will be different. OP Graham appears to have a Trotec so he should have it.
    Last edited by Keith Winter; 05-26-2015 at 9:55 PM.

  15. #15
    Graham, to answer your original question, I use a couple of test files when I try out a new substrate. This combines a photo and some text (usually the settings). This accomplishes two things: I have a record of what worked (or failed) and eliminates the variable of using different photos so you know what to expect. These samples, along with my notebook full of settings collected over the years, keep me from having to rely on my memory or wasting a lot of time testing settings. The materials you see here are ivory piano key, cast acrylic, coil stock (similar to anodized alum), LaserTile, rosewood piano finish.

    When I first started out 10 years ago, this procedure was very helpful. I still refer to my notebook and update it continuously as new materials are introduced. It's also helpful to write your settings on the document itself (outside the printing area).

    Hope this helps, dee
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    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

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